Hi,

I have a Link V5 installed in my vehicle at the moment.

My cold starts are fine and I have the idle well under control. Only thing is my hot starts when I leave the vehicle to sit for 10-20 minutes.

What can I change in the map to remedy this ?

 

Hi,
I have the same problem the engine nearly stall, i think it´s becouse of the heatsoak in the IC and hope to get rid of it when the Frontmount is on..

One thing that works for sure is the new chip (from BRD,cost around 150 £)

With this chip the problem disapir.

Skassa

 

new chip?

 

A firmware update to the Link ?

 

What revision of the chip would this be ?

 

It´s the R-chip or (micro controller)what ever You call it,

The one that´s in the v5 is the Q-chip.

Skassa

 

When you turn the ignition on, do you wait for the fuel pump to stop running before you turn the key?

Alan

 

In 10-20 minutes, the fuel pressure shouldn't really drop enough to cause a problem anyway?
I think it's just the usual Link 'warm start' trickiness! I think it dumps extra fuel in for the first 90 seconds, even if the engine is warm, so it's then overfuelling.
Or that's my take on it anyway

 

When you switch the ignition on in my car, the fuel pressure rises to my preset pressure, then the pump stops and the pressure drops away immediately. Not to zero, that takes a good bit longer, but reduces anyway.

I believe it is do with the Link ECU checking its system and if you don't give it enough time after the ignition is switched on, it can become confused for a short while before it sorts itself out, hence the poor running.

The exact technical explanation behind it i'm not sure, Bob Rawle would be the best person to explain it having the most experience with Link.

Suffice to say i have no issues on any start, hot or cold if i leave the ignition on for the few seconds til the pump stops priming and then start the car

Alan

 

I should also point out i run a V5 ECU as well.

Don't know if this sequence of events will help those running older versions of ECU ( either V5 ECU or earlier model years.)

Alan

 

Q-chip has dodgy idle software anyway - the idle stepper values have a tendancy not the reset correctly - they can be all over the place.

I believe the R-chip resolves this - however when I spoke to Link their view was the only updgrade of value on this chip was the idle - so you need to decide if it is worth 150 - I didn't.

Rannoch

 

I can bet vital parts of Rannoch's anatomy it's an advance issue. I had the exact same symptom and fiddled with fuelling, and clamp forever...

Until I lowered the advance in the idle zones...

COld starts were always perfect, and the idle was all over the place on a hot start (if it'd been sitting for a while), needing 30 secs to stabilize.



/J

 

I had the same problem - Spoke to Bob and after some guidance from "the master", I ended up fiddling with the advance so as to create a trough at idle (ie, advance for 500-1000 was 2 degrees different to 0-500 and 100-1500) and it has done the trick!

Russell

 

Wuz,

Can you please elaborate on that ? Does 500-1000 refer to the idle RPM ?

 

Wuz,

Can you please elaborate on that ? Does 500-1000 refer to the idle RPM ?

 

SAM,

if you could see my idle stepper values be any value but 60 then I could agree. Advance does make a great difference.

Recently spent 2 hours playing just with idle (was stuck in a big traffic jam) got it spot on and the next day it was the worst it ever had been!.

Things that impact it - advance, clamp, fueling, volts. They all have an impact.

However it the idle values themselves are not stable what hope do we have. Even LINK Electrosystems say that the Q chip is not right!

Rannoch

 

Rannoch - I agree, but we're discussing a specific issue with a car that's been warmed up, and stationary for a few minutes. Then restarted...in all cases I've seen, too much advance in idle zones have caused grief for 30-ish seconds before it stabilizes (hunting up and down violently).

Whether it be a Q, or an R-chip.

I've never had an issue myself with the Q really (after sorting the advance), I'm now on an R-version just to try it out.



/J

 

Xmas - yes, the 500-100 rpm band is hot idle area and so we tweaked the advance a little (my heavily modified car was running advance levels of:

0-500 = 10
500-1000 = 7
100-1500 = 12

all at 0-40kpa (idle vacuum)

this creates a low advance "trough" that keeps the hot idle stable - at least it doea on my car

I am offshore at the moment and so I'll mail you the required logs from the Link once I get home!

Russell