Help!!! Fitting a JW Racing Quickshift
#2
the old lever just pops out, simulate putting it into 2nd and press down.
Note: there a complete @rse to get back in, well mine was anyway.
Kevin
p.s. i've got a jw racing quickshift for sale if anybody wants to try one out. i've since picked up a cheap prodrive shifter.
Note: there a complete @rse to get back in, well mine was anyway.
Kevin
p.s. i've got a jw racing quickshift for sale if anybody wants to try one out. i've since picked up a cheap prodrive shifter.
#7
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (48)
To lever out just lock on a pair of vice grips and use a big screwdriver or similar to lever upwards.
To insert place the ball in position. Remove G.L. **** if not already off. Piece of wood on top of lever to protect threads and give it a hard crack with a hammer in the vertical down direction.
To insert place the ball in position. Remove G.L. **** if not already off. Piece of wood on top of lever to protect threads and give it a hard crack with a hammer in the vertical down direction.
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#9
Stu_WRX,
the one i had from JW Racing rattled a bit from the cylinder tube that goes through the ally block, i wrapped the tube with masking tape until it was a perfect fit.
Also, the 'C' shaped part that the alloy block fits into rattled a bit, i sorted that with a rubber washer.
hope this helps.
the one i had from JW Racing rattled a bit from the cylinder tube that goes through the ally block, i wrapped the tube with masking tape until it was a perfect fit.
Also, the 'C' shaped part that the alloy block fits into rattled a bit, i sorted that with a rubber washer.
hope this helps.
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
I've just fitted the B&M version but probably wont be using the car until mid-week, so in anticipation - has anyone noticed an increase in noise level through the lever? eg "tizz" or vibration. The original lever is insulated with rubber and has a nylon bush whilst the B&M is solid and has needle roller bearings.
JohnD
JohnD
#11
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Brute force and ignorance. Put the linkage in 2nd/4th gear and force the stick into position, constantly playing with the bolt so it'll go in..
[Edited by Katana - 2/8/2003 11:15:09 AM]
[Edited by Katana - 2/8/2003 11:15:09 AM]
#12
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
I have just done the same. I fitted one David Wallis had made. Felt great but began to get bearing noises in 3rd and 5th. Seemed like it was putting to much strain on the box. So I whipped that out and wacked the B&M one in. The obvious bearing noises are no more but I am still getting a low pitched whine in a few gears every now and then. So It seems to be putting a bit more strain on the box but by the same token seems to have settled down a bit after a few days of use. My uptake is - is that it is worth it as it does make the car better to drive. But I have a gut feel that gearboxes may not last quite as long. Mine was rebuilt a year ago by Dave West who is a v good scooby mechanic but has always felt a little weak, so this may have something to do with it being a bit more noisy.
Paul at TSL said that quickshifts need to be exact, even a mm out can effect strain put on the box. So I assume different boxes need different shifts? Others have said that they don't have to be that exact? Who knows?
Hope this helps.
Steve
[Edited by Steve Whitehorn - 2/10/2003 2:29:45 PM]
Paul at TSL said that quickshifts need to be exact, even a mm out can effect strain put on the box. So I assume different boxes need different shifts? Others have said that they don't have to be that exact? Who knows?
Hope this helps.
Steve
[Edited by Steve Whitehorn - 2/10/2003 2:29:45 PM]
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