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HELP - SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT

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Old 13 January 2003, 08:18 PM
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scubbug
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Can any of the more "hands on" owners out there, give me some directions on replacing my spark plugs. I appreciate its a bit of a job & may need some specific socket. Can ANYONE give me some advise. Also is there a particular plug to go for, exept for the direct Subaru replacement (and where to get them) ?

I THINK THERE IS A SLIGHT STUTTER AS YOU POWER THROUGH THE TORQUE BAND. Can only really put this down to plugs (well hope so anyway)

Any advise GREATLY received
Old 13 January 2003, 08:22 PM
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tweenierob
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What MY is your car mate??
Rob.
Old 13 January 2003, 11:04 PM
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marty_t3
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I had the same problem with my 94 WRX until i changed the plugs a few weeks ago. An annoying stutter when the throttle was fully open.

I used Champion platinum plugs gapped to .7 though most folk recommend the NGK plugs also with the gap set to .7 (.6 if your running higher boost). Do a search on plugs and you'll find the exact type you need.

As for changing them... if it's a classic you'll find it easiest to remove the air filter box and the metal bracket below it
(for the drivers side) and the washer bottle (for the passenger side). The plugs are recessed into the block by a few inches so you'll need a short extension on the sparkplug socket. There isn't much room to work in between the chassis and the block so getting the socket/plug out is a bit of a pain. Not a diffucult job though just make sure you have a few different length extensions and wrenches. (I'm sure i used a different combination of extensions on each plug)

Someone mentioned that it can be done in a hour and i thought that might be a bit optimistic.... turned out it took me 45 minutes.

edited to add.... hint : make sure you have an easy way of getting the socket back out after you fit the new plug. You may not be able to get the socket out with the extension bar still attached due to the tight space.

good luck.

[Edited by marty_t3 - 1/13/2003 11:25:09 PM]
Old 14 January 2003, 08:54 AM
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redwrx
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Pretty much as previous reply....I used to get stutter, and cost me a small fortune trying to sort it, turned out to be what i replaced first ..but they were gapped wrong...yep, the plugs. Mine came as 1.1 std...that gave me the problems. Took the advice from the kind people on here ...reset the gaps to .7mm, and touch wood, its never missed a beat since.

As for fitting, the previous reply is a very good guide on how to do it ...air box out one side, and washerbottle out on the other....not much room as he says...only advice is try doing it cold...cos its a bugger when the engine is hot, and also dont trying pulling the coil pack out, with the retaining bolt completely out, leave it on its last thread other wise you risk snapping the rubber ends off, when its free, then unscrew the bolt off its last thread/s....and do the reverse when you put them back. the danger is wriggling the coil pack to get a grip on it.

hope this provides a bit of help.

Frank

edit...mines a 93wrx

[Edited by redwrx - 1/14/2003 8:56:14 AM]
Old 14 January 2003, 05:26 PM
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scubbug
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Sorry guys, being a bit of a t!t. My Scoob is a `99 on a T. Are these more difficult than the earlier cars or is the process the same ??

Thanks very much.
Old 14 January 2003, 05:36 PM
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TBMeech
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Process is still the same m8, its pretty simple....

Take out the washer bottle (2 Screws), undo the maf from the inlet tube etc to give you more room.

Get a spark plug socket on a short extension, undo with a ratchet then spin the plugs off by hand (Still using the extension and socket), replace as above, took me about 30 mins last weekend that was with the maf still in place only because I have an APS metal tube so I couldnt get it out of the way easily.
Old 14 January 2003, 05:40 PM
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scubbug
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Sorry to be thick but what is a MAF ?

Also, just done a bit of a search on plugs as suggested and HKS read very well as did NGK. I run nominal boost settings as the car is factory standard with the exception of a SS exhaust

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Old 14 January 2003, 05:49 PM
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TBMeech
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Ok if you follow the induction hose (Rubber) to your left it is attatched onto the plastic airbox (Its the Airflow sensor), the rubber induction hose is held on by a jubilee clip, undo it, then undo the next one on the airbox and you can remove it, airbox is only held on by 2 bolts so you could take that out too and it will give you a lot more room to work with.

NGK Plugs are good, you'll probably need the PRF6's, tho don't quote me on it, I use the 7b's but I run a STI-V with mods so your's will be different.

You can get the NGK's from scoobyshop or speak to Mark @ Lateral Performance.

Make sure you gap the plugs to 0.7mm otherwise you may get problems.
Old 14 January 2003, 05:56 PM
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scubbug
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Gotcha !

No experience of these fancy HKS jobbies then ?
Old 14 January 2003, 06:13 PM
  #10  
TBMeech
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Not personally, the NGK's stand up to some good abuse, my car is running about 325bhp atm and runs fine on NGK's, Personally I dont think the Blitz plugs are worth another £30, unless you are happy to pay that, i'd rather put the money into more go faster goodies.
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