pcdude

dont know if any can help , i got a slight click on the clutch pedal when i engage it, i feels like it could be some kind a linkage thing under the dash , any ideas on how to correct it , or shall i just take it in too subaru ?

cheers Paul

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Paul
This has been the subject of more than one thread in the past.
I found the problem to be the forked end of the clutch master cylinder pushrod moving sideways on the pedal arm. No big deal. Look under the dash and put a blob of thick grease where the fork joins the arm, this should cushion any movement for a while. it really needs a washer to take up sideways movement.
Give it a try and let us know?
JohnD

RON

That'll be me tomorrow night, head under the dash trying to fixe the damn clutch click, been driving me bloomin mad!
Cheers

pcdude

JohnD
is it like a pin that links the shaft to the pedal held in place with a small washer and a split pin on the end ?
if so i did notice this and thought seems alot of travel across the pin , didnt think this would cause it , all other parts had grease on except this bit ,,,,,,

so this linking pin is the cause ?
cheers

Colin P

Do you mean you can feel it rather than hear a slight click?
have greased the pin but it still has a slight notchey feeling to it now and again.
I will try fitting a couple of washers to take out the play.
Anyone else got any suggestions??????

Colin

LG John

I can feel and hear my click

Colin P

What about bleeding the clutch, could it be air in the system?
Anyone know how to bleed the cluch hydraulics?

Colin

AlanG

Turn the clutch pedal pin retainer round to stop it clicking off the metalwork the pedals are attached to.

Alan

pcdude

alan
Im abit lost to what you mean mate , ?

Turn the clutch pedal pin retainer round to stop it clicking off the metalwork the pedals are attached to.

Alan

its a pin if you turn it it will still have slack ,surley the only way is to put washers in to take slck up ?

Colin P

Like to keep this one going till it's resolved, as it is spoiling the enjoyment of cruising in my scoob.............

PCDUDE could you edit the heading to 'slight click clutch pedal' to get more response maybe.

[Edited by Colin P - 12/19/2002 9:58:28 AM]

pcdude

colin ,, dont think i can mate ??/

can a moderator do this pls ?

cheers

Dyney

Sorry guys, I don't have the ability to change titles

Iain.

Colin P

Tried the washer thing, there's a definate improvement.
I put 1 M8 washer either side of the pedel inside the fork, but there is still a little bit of a notch.
Will try 2 washers one side and then the other to see if it is an alignment problem tomorrow.
The notch is only there when the engine is warmed up. Does anyone know if you can grease the release bearing actuator if you remove the rubber boot by the slave cylinder?

Colin

pcdude

keep at it colin ,,, think we are alone on this mate

Its got to be the pin , its far too long imo , so when you hit the pedal it will slide along the pin and hit the end with a click/knock , when i greased mine it made a difference , but after a few days the grease gets displaced and it comes back again , i will be mentioning it to my subaru dealer at next visit i think

keep us posted colin



[Edited by pcdude - 12/21/2002 8:22:07 PM]

Colin P

PCDUDE
I've cracked it...........
This is what I did and my clutch pedal is sweet as a nut now.
I used large M8 washers 1.5mm thick, 2 washers inside the fork on the right of the pedal and 1 washer between the fork and the clip, this removed all side movement of the pin still allowing it to revolve freely.
I then adjusted the biteing point of the clutch by undoing the locknut behind the fork and turning the shaft 2 full turns with a 6mm spanner on the flats clockwise (raising the pedal, less thread showing inside the fork) lock the nut again.
Then adjusted the bolt at the top of the pedal (2 X 14mm spanners) to give 10-15mm of free play at the pedal rubber end.
Your's may need slightly different adjustment as the bracket is only a bit of bent sheet metal and you clutch will be worn differently, the main thing is to have the pedal, shaft and master cylinder in line without side play, raise the biteing point and reduce the freeplay in the pedal.
Top tip: wear long sleeves as I now have a carpet burn on my left elbow.
Good luck, Colin

RON

Guys,
I did mine last week, and it makes driving the car pleasurable again, I used fibre washers, so that there's no metal to make the click, not easy to do, there's afunny little plastic spring thing on the clevis pin, that went in the in, it's got an R clip anyway, so I can't see the need for the plastic bit.
make sure you use a washer the right size, too big and it could still click!
Thank god mine doesn't!


Edited cos I just read all of Colin's last reply, I would advise AGAINST adjusting the pedal, this could result in constant fluid pressure, which could result in failure, it's best to have more free-play than that!

[Edited by RON - 12/22/2002 10:27:47 PM]

Colin P

Ron

The Subaru manual recomends 5-15mm free play, I sugested 10-15mm!

Colin

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

Glad to have pointed you in the right direction.
JohnD

pcdude

nice one colin glad u r sorted ,,,,, im gunna wait till next service and mention it to subaru i think , as its obviously a design error ( be a small one ) but they might have some sort of revised cure for it ? and im under full subaru warrenty so before i play i want them to look 1st ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

thx guys for all the advise


cheers

Paul