The Legacy's Revenge
06 November 2002, 08:26 PM
#1
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As some of you know ive been on the case of a stuttry sub.
Ive drained the excess oil out then went to see David Wallis.
Me and David (well David mostly) spent a good hour and a half messing about he fiddled with the ecu, cleaned the boost solenoid and took a look at the idle control valve. SADLY this has had no effect. He did diagnostic check came back with 24 and 21. Now theres some shady wire coming from the water sensor with a blue crimper on it(100% non subaru) going to the ecu and when we took off the idle valve cover there was small shrouds of metal in there.
In the history i have it says the temp sensor has been replaced on 26/3/01.
So it still hesitates when my foots in the rug until about 4000rpm then woosh were out of there!
AAny suggestions what it could be?
As we were unable to do an ecu reset I'm gonna leave the battery disconnected tonight, cross my fingers knees and toes
Ive drained the excess oil out then went to see David Wallis.
Me and David (well David mostly) spent a good hour and a half messing about he fiddled with the ecu, cleaned the boost solenoid and took a look at the idle control valve. SADLY this has had no effect. He did diagnostic check came back with 24 and 21. Now theres some shady wire coming from the water sensor with a blue crimper on it(100% non subaru) going to the ecu and when we took off the idle valve cover there was small shrouds of metal in there.
In the history i have it says the temp sensor has been replaced on 26/3/01.
So it still hesitates when my foots in the rug until about 4000rpm then woosh were out of there!
AAny suggestions what it could be?
As we were unable to do an ecu reset I'm gonna leave the battery disconnected tonight, cross my fingers knees and toes
07 November 2002, 12:08 AM
#2
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Please forgive the stupid question..
Why the inability to do an ECU Reset?
Testing the temp sensor signal (or most others) at the ECU is no big deal if you've got a digital Multimeter.
If you need further help - email me & I'll do my best to help.
Chris
Why the inability to do an ECU Reset?
Testing the temp sensor signal (or most others) at the ECU is no big deal if you've got a digital Multimeter.
If you need further help - email me & I'll do my best to help.
Chris
07 November 2002, 04:49 AM
#3
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Why not earth it? Seems to help older cars. Done quite a few myself, and even on some of the newer cars it has helped 
There is a thread that has all the links and info you'll need...
HTH
There is a thread that has all the links and info you'll need...
HTH
07 November 2002, 03:18 PM
#5
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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because I couldnt remember which wires did the reset.. just black or just green or both... 
Get a new idle control valve if the reset doesnt clear it... then check the temp sensor wires.. I would have done it but the legacy ecu aint the easiest thing to get to...
PS technical posts would be better in general technical or drivetrain
David
Get a new idle control valve if the reset doesnt clear it... then check the temp sensor wires.. I would have done it but the legacy ecu aint the easiest thing to get to...
PS technical posts would be better in general technical or drivetrain
David
07 November 2002, 04:39 PM
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Believe the reset is both green and black together..
21 = Engine Temp Sensor
24 = Idle Air control solinoid
As I think David knew already..
Easiest way to do the earthing (did this last week and made huge difference.. solved a cold start problem and car is much nicer off boost than it was) walk into Halfords and buy 2 18inch earth battery leads and 1 24inch better lead.. cost of about 8quid..
Undo negative battery and run two of said leads, one to suspension turret and one to inlet manifold..
then one from other suspension turret to inlet manifold..
Check the lengths as the legacy engine bay is obviously bigger. (you might been 3 24inch leads).
JGM
21 = Engine Temp Sensor
24 = Idle Air control solinoid
As I think David knew already..
Easiest way to do the earthing (did this last week and made huge difference.. solved a cold start problem and car is much nicer off boost than it was) walk into Halfords and buy 2 18inch earth battery leads and 1 24inch better lead.. cost of about 8quid..
Undo negative battery and run two of said leads, one to suspension turret and one to inlet manifold..
then one from other suspension turret to inlet manifold..
Check the lengths as the legacy engine bay is obviously bigger. (you might been 3 24inch leads).
JGM
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07 November 2002, 05:02 PM
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Shielded... plastic coated.. I ended up with two in black and one in red... but put some black tape on it.. I hate red as an earth..
Was worried braided might short on something..
JGM
Was worried braided might short on something..
JGM
07 November 2002, 06:34 PM
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Went to K.T.Green today they spent 45mins looking at the car came back and said 'we have restet it twice and it keeps on reading the 24 fault'
So this is the idle control valve, now when i fitted the boost gauge i feed the air tube between the black wire and the middle wire on the plug for the idle cont... but i had to pull at the wires a little, could this of done something?
And why would other earths make things better?
They also gave me a number of a guy who does used scoob parts.
Very nice of a scoob main dealer
So this is the idle control valve, now when i fitted the boost gauge i feed the air tube between the black wire and the middle wire on the plug for the idle cont... but i had to pull at the wires a little, could this of done something?
And why would other earths make things better?
They also gave me a number of a guy who does used scoob parts.
Very nice of a scoob main dealer
08 November 2002, 02:04 AM
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Coz m8, many of the little things that go wrong with Scoobies (many that can't be traced or are intermittent), esp. older ones seem to be caused by poor earthing. Put it this way, it certainly won't hurt anything unless you connect it to the positive terminal 
Quite a few people have noted good things recently - JGM 2 being one, buzzerboy another (he's got an older TT Legacy). Take a look at buzzerboy's thread...
HTH
Quite a few people have noted good things recently - JGM 2 being one, buzzerboy another (he's got an older TT Legacy). Take a look at buzzerboy's thread...
HTH
08 November 2002, 07:59 AM
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Suppose judging by the oil mistake I should highlight NEGATIVE terminal! only kidding mate..
Are you refering to where you ran the boost gauge air pipe through the bulk head?
I have always used the grommet under the intercooler on the Impreza (obviously different on the Legacy) which only appears to have the alarm through, so I risked only effecting the alarm..
currnetly have the boost gauge, amplifier wiring running through it.. not much room left.
I would think if the cables were in a1 condition before you started then unless you were very aggressive with a screwdriver through the grommet I cannot see you damaging it.. but might be worth pulling the wires through a bit and checking the condition of the covering and that they are still connected.
BTW - as I understand it the engines sensors all use ground as a base and so any noise on the signal from a less than ideal ground will effect the signal. But I cannot see it effecting it as extreme as this.. sounds like if the wiring seems okay on the idle control it might be worth seeing if the friendly dealer will allow you to try one to see if it solves it.. I am sure they might have a Legacy sat on the fourcourt.
JGM
only kidding mate..Are you refering to where you ran the boost gauge air pipe through the bulk head?
I have always used the grommet under the intercooler on the Impreza (obviously different on the Legacy) which only appears to have the alarm through, so I risked only effecting the alarm..
currnetly have the boost gauge, amplifier wiring running through it.. not much room left.
I would think if the cables were in a1 condition before you started then unless you were very aggressive with a screwdriver through the grommet I cannot see you damaging it.. but might be worth pulling the wires through a bit and checking the condition of the covering and that they are still connected.
BTW - as I understand it the engines sensors all use ground as a base and so any noise on the signal from a less than ideal ground will effect the signal. But I cannot see it effecting it as extreme as this.. sounds like if the wiring seems okay on the idle control it might be worth seeing if the friendly dealer will allow you to try one to see if it solves it.. I am sure they might have a Legacy sat on the fourcourt.
JGM
08 November 2002, 11:01 AM
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They are not that friendly!
I put the wire through the gromit(no wires before this) and fed it between the wires on the idle contr.... if you think about the plug on the idle cont... its got 3 wires coming out of it and like a black plastic tubing protecting the wires. well i had to pull the wires hard and force the black tubing down for a few secs while i fed it through.
I put the wire through the gromit(no wires before this) and fed it between the wires on the idle contr.... if you think about the plug on the idle cont... its got 3 wires coming out of it and like a black plastic tubing protecting the wires. well i had to pull the wires hard and force the black tubing down for a few secs while i fed it through.
08 November 2002, 11:08 AM
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Can you take the plug off and check the wiring with a multimeter?
Remove a very small amount of wire coating off as far up the wiring away from the idle controller as you can then then check continuaty with the same wire on the plug for all three?
Then tape over the missing insulation on the three wires.
Alternative to removing insulation is to put a sharpe pin type connector on the multimeter and piece through the insulation with it and check on that.. still need to tape over it afterwards though.
Check the connecter is not dirty too.
JGM
Remove a very small amount of wire coating off as far up the wiring away from the idle controller as you can then then check continuaty with the same wire on the plug for all three?
Then tape over the missing insulation on the three wires.
Alternative to removing insulation is to put a sharpe pin type connector on the multimeter and piece through the insulation with it and check on that.. still need to tape over it afterwards though.
Check the connecter is not dirty too.
JGM
08 November 2002, 11:48 AM
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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they are that friendly...
Come around to mine on saturday and you can try mine if you want..
The number they gave you is for howard chopping, posts on here as hdcsub or similar..
Speak to charlie at kt green, tell him I sent you and dont ask to put it on credit card He normally lets you try bits.
Best Dealership in Yorkshire IMHO.
David
Come around to mine on saturday and you can try mine if you want..
The number they gave you is for howard chopping, posts on here as hdcsub or similar..
Speak to charlie at kt green, tell him I sent you and dont ask to put it on credit card
He normally lets you try bits.Best Dealership in Yorkshire IMHO.
David
10 November 2002, 09:51 AM
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Thats sounds promising:
1993 legacy single turbo
Air cone,
Dumpvalve,
Hopefully i'm loosing the cats but need to cure the misfire first.
Booked in to see howard choppin first thing monday.
Fingers crossed
1993 legacy single turbo
Air cone,
Dumpvalve,
Hopefully i'm loosing the cats but need to cure the misfire first.
Booked in to see howard choppin first thing monday.
Fingers crossed
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