Rods and pistons info please
#1
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Anyone thats done a rebuild, could you gimme some info on which rods and pistons you used and where u got them? Did you do the crank whilst at it or just leave the std unit? Any other parts you replaced / uprated whilst in there? What kind of figures are u running with the rebuilt setup?
If you have any info please post it up or mail it to me offline
Thanks in advance
Pete
If you have any info please post it up or mail it to me offline
Thanks in advance
Pete
#3
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Hey Andy, how goes bud?
Nah the knock signal was a bit misleading m8.
We detached the original knock sensor and fitted the Knocklink
sensor in its place so it wouldn`t retard the ignition.
Then took her out on Knockhill (no pun intended there )
When I had Alan in the mota for some passanger laps he noticed
that after the warmup lap there wasnt a single knock on the display unit even when giving it large in 5th :/
So have been 2 c a few peebs about it and the consensus seems to be that there`s a sticky valve causing the prob or not seating properly. This would be consistent with the symptoms as she`s running well when warmed up.
Any way the reply 2 ur question is yeah I`m looking ahead, there`s no point in faffing around IMHO if she`s getting open heart surgery then it`s gonna be 4 something special
U got any recommendations 4 me?
Hey gimme a bell if u get a chance, or drop me a mail bud.
L8r
Pete
Nah the knock signal was a bit misleading m8.
We detached the original knock sensor and fitted the Knocklink
sensor in its place so it wouldn`t retard the ignition.
Then took her out on Knockhill (no pun intended there )
When I had Alan in the mota for some passanger laps he noticed
that after the warmup lap there wasnt a single knock on the display unit even when giving it large in 5th :/
So have been 2 c a few peebs about it and the consensus seems to be that there`s a sticky valve causing the prob or not seating properly. This would be consistent with the symptoms as she`s running well when warmed up.
Any way the reply 2 ur question is yeah I`m looking ahead, there`s no point in faffing around IMHO if she`s getting open heart surgery then it`s gonna be 4 something special
U got any recommendations 4 me?
Hey gimme a bell if u get a chance, or drop me a mail bud.
L8r
Pete
#4
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I'd recommend the front entry mod to the TD05, really lets it breath much better at higher boost, very quick spool and still gets full boost by 2800 rpm too !!! You don't get that from a big expensive VF
May see you on Sat at Knockhill if you're going
Andy
#5
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Andy,
Up 2 now it`s looking like odds on I`ll b there
Maybe get a chance 2 chew some phat wiv u bout stuff & get a butchers @ u r underbonnet setup again
L8r m8
Pete
Up 2 now it`s looking like odds on I`ll b there
Maybe get a chance 2 chew some phat wiv u bout stuff & get a butchers @ u r underbonnet setup again
L8r m8
Pete
#6
I know someone who rebuilt there engine to take 400bhp and he used Cosworth pistons and Arrow rods. You should only buy these if you are thinking of maybe turning up the boost, fmic and ECU re-map. Otherwise just pop into Graham Goode racing and purchase standard parts. If you are thinking about lots more torque, then maybe you should think about replacing the crankshaft as they cant take too much of an increase.
Good luck
Gez
Good luck
Gez
#7
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How much do Arrow connecting rods weigh?
As you know, a lot can be gained from the weight of the engine parts. Now I'm not suggesting titanium that would not be strong enough, but lightweight forged internals in something as strong as chromoly 440 like JUN parts. There is no doubt Cosworth pistons are the best, that is BTW what JUN supply with their stroker kit.
TOMEI parts are even stronger, but also heavier. Not something you need unless you want a HUGE turbo.
IHI make extremely high quality turbos that you can buy as a complete kit from A'PEXi (turbo, piping, air filter etc etc).
I just bought a stroker kit for my car. I think it's definitely worth getting the crankshaft once you open it up. Remember, there's no replacement for displacement The longer stroke will also make the turbo spool up faster.
As you know, a lot can be gained from the weight of the engine parts. Now I'm not suggesting titanium that would not be strong enough, but lightweight forged internals in something as strong as chromoly 440 like JUN parts. There is no doubt Cosworth pistons are the best, that is BTW what JUN supply with their stroker kit.
TOMEI parts are even stronger, but also heavier. Not something you need unless you want a HUGE turbo.
IHI make extremely high quality turbos that you can buy as a complete kit from A'PEXi (turbo, piping, air filter etc etc).
I just bought a stroker kit for my car. I think it's definitely worth getting the crankshaft once you open it up. Remember, there's no replacement for displacement The longer stroke will also make the turbo spool up faster.
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#8
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Thanks for all the info guys,
Much appreciated, like many folks b4 me when u get to the stage when u r struggling 2 push any more with what u have, a serious session of data collection is required, then mull it all over before comming out with the right plan at the right cost.
The reason for posting was I`d rather get the info 1st hand from you guys that have been there, other than base it all on theory.
So once again folks thanks a lot, u r input is most appreciated. If anything else comes to mind that you think may help me please let me know.
Thanks
Pete
Much appreciated, like many folks b4 me when u get to the stage when u r struggling 2 push any more with what u have, a serious session of data collection is required, then mull it all over before comming out with the right plan at the right cost.
The reason for posting was I`d rather get the info 1st hand from you guys that have been there, other than base it all on theory.
So once again folks thanks a lot, u r input is most appreciated. If anything else comes to mind that you think may help me please let me know.
Thanks
Pete
#10
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I bought my stroker kit from France where it's relatively cheap, at basically the Japanese price with a small markup for tax and transport.
I dont know what open or closed deck means, sorry, English is my third language Could you explain this to me?
My stroker kit is for a 4G63 btw, so not the same as yours I guess... Cost is 650,000 Yen new from JUN, so should be around (connecting to www.xe.com ... ) 3500 GBP plus say 200/300. Do you know how much that is from the English JUN importer?
I can ask how much the scooby JUN stroker kit is if you like. I know the dealer just ordered one for an STI that blew (Power System, too lean ) tssss.....
I dont know what open or closed deck means, sorry, English is my third language Could you explain this to me?
My stroker kit is for a 4G63 btw, so not the same as yours I guess... Cost is 650,000 Yen new from JUN, so should be around (connecting to www.xe.com ... ) 3500 GBP plus say 200/300. Do you know how much that is from the English JUN importer?
I can ask how much the scooby JUN stroker kit is if you like. I know the dealer just ordered one for an STI that blew (Power System, too lean ) tssss.....
#11
I have been in a Scoob with a Jun 2.2 striker kit. Car's characteristics were different. Wasnt so responsive and not so revvy.
You should bare in mind that JUN stroker kits are made by Cosworth. If reliability is the ultimate goal then just go for Coswortgh Pistons, Arrow Rods, and a forged crankshaft.
Graham Goode have a variety of Pistons, rods etc. Worth a look.
Regards
Gez
You should bare in mind that JUN stroker kits are made by Cosworth. If reliability is the ultimate goal then just go for Coswortgh Pistons, Arrow Rods, and a forged crankshaft.
Graham Goode have a variety of Pistons, rods etc. Worth a look.
Regards
Gez
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