LWells

iTrader: (3)

I have been searching the internet and this forum but cant seem to find anywhere that can tell you what to buy, does anyone have an idea which brand I can purchase? Speaking to Subaru they just say... we use a long life coolant now

Also how much do you need (I will dig out the manual im sure it says! but just asking)

I need to change mine asap as the mixture is basically non existent after top ups with water, speaking of which do you just use tap water to mix it or do you need distilled water?

thanks

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

1. Any brand, ask at a decent motor factors for one suitable for an alloy engine and with corrosion inhibitors.

2. System takes 7 litres, you will get about 5 in if you drain and refill.

3. Yes, tap water, mix to 50/50, or slightly stronger if you have flushed with clean water, or your coolant is very weak.

Read this before doing the job: https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-question.html, 3rd post down.

Do it right, do it once, no airlocks.

LWells

iTrader: (3)

Thanks :-) I had seen that post so will follow the instructions, il have a go this weekend hopefully. Il give a couple of places a ring to see what they have/recommend.

PedroFT

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't use tap water.
I would use a good brand 5L green coolant, and fill the rest with distilled water. That's what i did a few months ago

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

1. GREEN coolant? Please......the colour of the coolant is immaterial, it's just dye and signifies nothing.

2. Why distilled water? The system is closed, so no scaling........

PedroFT

iTrader: (1)

1 - Correct... the green is just to make sure it's the same as factory and it's easier to identify if you have green liquid you know it's coolant, if it's blue it's washer fluir, if it's "pinkish" power steering oil. Those were "the colors" on earlier models.

2 - Because of corrosion and algae. Tap water has microscopic algae that usually is killed by the additives on the coolant, but, better safe than sorry, that's what usually kills waterpumps and clogs thermostats.

LWells

iTrader: (3)

I suppose I could for the price of it I could get some distilled water, either from Halfords or free from the Science department where I work! I haven't had chance to ring anywhere yet. What makes have others used, if its all the same would Halfords be ok! I wouldn't normally dream of buying that but if its all the same that's easily accessible.

DoZZa

iTrader: (4)

This is the stuff you need mate

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/ca...0481&0&cc5_866

Same day delivery too!

LWells

iTrader: (3)

I see they also do a Blue version that specifically mentions alloy engines is that any better? Just rang A to Z as we have one local, they looked it up on the Computer and said G30 is what I need, a lot say G12, any ideas what the difference is!?

LWells

iTrader: (3)

also as I seem to be loosing coolant, hence its now diluted as I top up over the year, would Holts Radweld be ok to put in? apparently this is the same stuff as the coolant conditioner stuff Subaru use?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

NO!!!!!!

Find out where it's coming from and get it repaired.

Suspect: hoses, hose unions, crossover pipes at base of engine, esp the one at the front, and finally the rad itself.

Radweld can block up tiny galleries with dire consequences.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

OK, but corrosion is dealt with by corrosion inhibitors and algae would all be killed off the minute the water went over 50 degC.

LWells

iTrader: (3)

ok no Rad Weld! I have a different rad in that I changed a few years back so hopefully its just a simple pipe somewhere. Il also follow your information below that I saw in your other post.

******************

Yes, drain from the rad drain plug, or remove bottom hose. Set heaters in car to hot while it drains, leave them there.

Inspect rad for the core turning to dust, if it's bad, replace it, internet ones are fine.

Use a decent quality anti-freeze, as at a motor factor for one suitable for an alloy engine and having anti-corrosion added. Dilution is usually 50/50.

Replace plug or bottom hose!!!

Remove the rearmost pipe from the metal header tank on top of thengine, remove the cap from said tank. Jam a funnel down that hose and fill SLOWLY via the funnel, do NOT allow it to gulp.

Watch for the header tank to fill, once it reaches the top, remove funnel and replace that pipe.

Now, with cap still off, start engine and allow to warm up until fan comes on. Watch for bubbles, top up or mop up as necessary.

Once fans start, switch off, replace cap, drive round block, leave to cool.
When cool, remove cap, check level, top up if necessary, replace cap, job's a good'un.

It takes a while, but bear in mind, THERE IS NO KNOWN WAY TO BLEED THE SYSTEM IF YOU AIRLOCK IT.

LWells

iTrader: (3)

Followed instructions and replaced the coolant (got some G30 locally in the end), had one incident of the temp going up so cooled and ran with the top off etc again, touch wood it seems to be ok after several drives and idling in traffic. Found the leak it was the seal on the Radiator drain plug, replaced and hoping that's solved.

Oil and filter change tonight then an expensive visit to scoobyclinic for the Cam belt!

:-)