Hesitation
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Hi folks
I have been having probs with my classic wrx and its running. It hesitates under low revs and its now getting me down
Its been doing it for around a month and so far a couple of cracked coil packs have been changed, new gasket for idle control valve and cleaned and today I changed the cracked knock sensor. But today it seems to be worse and hesitates under slight acceleration when going up the gears. Also had a look and couldn't see any splits or anything.
I am at the stage where god knows what else it could be and I'm thinking or taking it off the road and stripping it for spares
Oh and the idle revs seem to be quite low. Around 200-400 revs it seems.
Any helpful ideas would be appreciated please!
Thanks in advance
I have been having probs with my classic wrx and its running. It hesitates under low revs and its now getting me down

Its been doing it for around a month and so far a couple of cracked coil packs have been changed, new gasket for idle control valve and cleaned and today I changed the cracked knock sensor. But today it seems to be worse and hesitates under slight acceleration when going up the gears. Also had a look and couldn't see any splits or anything.
I am at the stage where god knows what else it could be and I'm thinking or taking it off the road and stripping it for spares

Oh and the idle revs seem to be quite low. Around 200-400 revs it seems.
Any helpful ideas would be appreciated please!
Thanks in advance
I'm suffering similar, I describe mine as a stuttering as the turbo is spooling, sort of between 2000-2800rpm. Once its on full boost it pulls fine. Mine ticks over at about 500rpm when warm.
I'm going to change my knock sensor, then resort to swapping the MAF and see where I'm at
I'm going to change my knock sensor, then resort to swapping the MAF and see where I'm at
Had this prob with my Audi A4 1.8t turned out to be chain tensioner if that helps
I had changed coil packs,plugs,and sensors and it was still the same had to send it to audi £600 for new tensioner
The spring in the tensioner fails causing a lack of oil pressure this in turn makes the chain slack and knocks timing out causing car to tick over low revs stutter misfire etc
I had changed coil packs,plugs,and sensors and it was still the same had to send it to audi £600 for new tensioner
The spring in the tensioner fails causing a lack of oil pressure this in turn makes the chain slack and knocks timing out causing car to tick over low revs stutter misfire etc
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I forgot to add maf was changed and plugs were changed about 2 months ago when it had a service
And it don't do it under boost only on low revs.
If its going to be something expensive then its gonna be broke for bits as I'm not wasting anymore money on it. Its already cost me thousands in under 2 years (since I got it)
And it don't do it under boost only on low revs.If its going to be something expensive then its gonna be broke for bits as I'm not wasting anymore money on it. Its already cost me thousands in under 2 years (since I got it)
have a look at your fuel pump. Then have a look at your map sensor.
Could you post a pic of engine bay so we can have a look a your pipe routing?
The most common problem I have seen is a turbosmart boost adjuster if you have one fitted?
Could you post a pic of engine bay so we can have a look a your pipe routing?
The most common problem I have seen is a turbosmart boost adjuster if you have one fitted?
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lolWhat and where is that bit?
Spoke to Tim Farmer today and I am going to try the old maff trick or disconnecting it while running and cleaning the top of the idle control valve. See if these do something
Last edited by EOEUMC; Dec 15, 2014 at 10:00 PM.
Maf trick is just that , a trick and isnt a true indicator of any fault. The boost sol is located on the drivers side suspension turret and is brown in colour witn 2 pipes coming from it. If its faulty it would show up and cause these symptoms. It can be cleaned out by flushing through with cleaner and then lubed up. Theres a guide to doing it in the Technical Archive section.
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Maf trick is just that , a trick and isnt a true indicator of any fault. The boost sol is located on the drivers side suspension turret and is brown in colour witn 2 pipes coming from it. If its faulty it would show up and cause these symptoms. It can be cleaned out by flushing through with cleaner and then lubed up. Theres a guide to doing it in the Technical Archive section.
Also cleaned the top of the idle control valve today, not dirty tbh but cleaned anyway. Car still messing about, but not as much. The main bit of hesitation is when pulling away or changing up gears with little throttle, feels like its got kangaroo p155 in the tank.Now waiting on our Mr Farmer to send me a pic of a hose that is prone to cook and split apparently. Can't remember what one it was now though
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Hose looked fine when checked and cleaned out the boost solenoid today. Car still the same 
I really don't know what it could be, but thinking its something pretty trivial as it don't do it all the time and only does it at low revs

I really don't know what it could be, but thinking its something pretty trivial as it don't do it all the time and only does it at low revs
i had similar probs and found a small crack on the turbo elbow and the jubilee clip was hiding it until i took it right off, mine kept hesitating in low gears but ok on boost etc so worth a check.
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Nope
Still bugging me.
Its done my head in and now looking for a cheap run around as I think the car is going to be broken for spares. Shame as I would of liked to of found out what has been knobbing me off for a while
Cheers matthewn, I may have a look if I can give it any more time
Still bugging me.Its done my head in and now looking for a cheap run around as I think the car is going to be broken for spares. Shame as I would of liked to of found out what has been knobbing me off for a while

Cheers matthewn, I may have a look if I can give it any more time
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Going to check the pipe work again
See if anything is leaking. Might just buy another intake pipe from the maff to the turbo I think it was. Where the breather pipes attach which is a 90% bend. Not sure where I can get one as I'm not paying stupid money for a Samco one 
Any ideas folks?
Ta
See if anything is leaking. Might just buy another intake pipe from the maff to the turbo I think it was. Where the breather pipes attach which is a 90% bend. Not sure where I can get one as I'm not paying stupid money for a Samco one 
Any ideas folks?
Ta
i changed mine mate got one from first.racing on ebay, was about 25 quid then done away with the breather pipes by fitting a oil catch can as it dose not have the inputs for the breather pipes but was going to fit a catch can anyway so two birds with one stone as they say. think i got 65mm reduced to 60mm mate.
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From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Standard replacement or Samco is the only way forward then Glen. Catch can and sundries is cheaper than the Samco.
Check all your vacuum pipes whilst you're on mate.
Check all your vacuum pipes whilst you're on mate.
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lol
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From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Catch can - £55
Cheap breather pipes to catch can £10
Reducing elbow £15 ish
Actually, just that's getting close to the Samco price, and you'd still need to buy a couple of more bits.....
It all adds up.
Throttle body is bolted to the inlet manifold, your intercooler connects to it.
Cheap breather pipes to catch can £10
Reducing elbow £15 ish
Actually, just that's getting close to the Samco price, and you'd still need to buy a couple of more bits.....
It all adds up.
Throttle body is bolted to the inlet manifold, your intercooler connects to it.
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Catch can - £55
Cheap breather pipes to catch can £10
Reducing elbow £15 ish
Actually, just that's getting close to the Samco price, and you'd still need to buy a couple of more bits.....
It all adds up.
Throttle body is bolted to the inlet manifold, your intercooler connects to it.
Cheap breather pipes to catch can £10
Reducing elbow £15 ish
Actually, just that's getting close to the Samco price, and you'd still need to buy a couple of more bits.....
It all adds up.
Throttle body is bolted to the inlet manifold, your intercooler connects to it.

So would still need to replace the intake pipe. No point in spending extra for something not really needed 
Sorry which bit on here do you mean for the throttle body? Ta

This is one of my old Impreza's and not the current one, but pretty much the same
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Think I know what the throttle body is now 
I found a split in the pipe where the dv fits in on the intake pipe. Would this cause the running issues or just not help it?

I found a split in the pipe where the dv fits in on the intake pipe. Would this cause the running issues or just not help it?
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From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
That would cause issues. 
A while back I was trying to trouble shoot an annoying whistle, whilst on boost.
To rule it out, I removed the recirc and blocked the outlet on the FMIC, and the inlet on turbo inlet pipe. I'd left the highlighted vac pipe with nothing blocking it, though.

Very old pic.

It ran, of a fashion. Obviously it was sucking in un-metered air off boost, and pissing it out on boost.
A while back I was trying to trouble shoot an annoying whistle, whilst on boost.
To rule it out, I removed the recirc and blocked the outlet on the FMIC, and the inlet on turbo inlet pipe. I'd left the highlighted vac pipe with nothing blocking it, though.

Very old pic.

It ran, of a fashion. Obviously it was sucking in un-metered air off boost, and pissing it out on boost.

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From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
Mine, Glen.

You would just tee your recirc into the black which is almost central in the pic, mate. It's the feed that the Idle Control Valve takes air from.

You would just tee your recirc into the black which is almost central in the pic, mate. It's the feed that the Idle Control Valve takes air from.




