Classic uk turbo 2000 hunting and over fueling
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Classic uk turbo 2000 hunting and over fueling
Hi All,
Ive recently brought a 2000 reg uk turbo 2000,
Mods - turbo back exhaust, standered td04, forge dv, cone filter,
It did drive fine at first but only boosting at half a bar (restritive pill was missing) Now boosts 0.8/0.9 bar
Now i have an issue with hunting when hot ....?(No codes stored in the ECU)
Cold idle is fine, But when warm it hunts when coming to a set of traffic lights/junction it will almost stall and bounce up and down 4/5 times then idle fine ....?
Ive checked for vac leaks/boost leaks
Replaced the maff with a genuine subaru one £120
also tried the oem reserc valve (no change)
It also seems to be running rich and leaving a soot mark on the floor when starting from cold...? (Very poor MPG)
Any advice would be great as im at a loss...
Ive recently brought a 2000 reg uk turbo 2000,
Mods - turbo back exhaust, standered td04, forge dv, cone filter,
It did drive fine at first but only boosting at half a bar (restritive pill was missing) Now boosts 0.8/0.9 bar
Now i have an issue with hunting when hot ....?(No codes stored in the ECU)
Cold idle is fine, But when warm it hunts when coming to a set of traffic lights/junction it will almost stall and bounce up and down 4/5 times then idle fine ....?
Ive checked for vac leaks/boost leaks
Replaced the maff with a genuine subaru one £120
also tried the oem reserc valve (no change)
It also seems to be running rich and leaving a soot mark on the floor when starting from cold...? (Very poor MPG)
Any advice would be great as im at a loss...
#2
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Has it been mapped? It should have been with a decat. Also the cone filter is not required and will probably do more harm then good. I would take it to a specialist and get them to look at it. You could spend ages chasing sensors, plugs, coils etc without finding the cause and spending £100's.
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Yes its a full de-cat turbo back exhaust ..I don't hammer the car as i know the mods make the car run lean .(had a bugeye wrx with the same mods and that was running lean...Until Duncan graham mapped it )
This is my 3rd scooby
My point is the car was fine but now the hot idle is crap ...but the car boosts/runs fine ..?
This is my 3rd scooby
My point is the car was fine but now the hot idle is crap ...but the car boosts/runs fine ..?
Last edited by darren760; 09 December 2014 at 03:38 PM.
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That or the cone filter has fooked the MAF sensor up or even both.
OP, cone filters are a bit of a on the MY99/00 cars due to the maf sensors being a little sensitive, would recommend going back to the standard air box.
A full decat shouldnt affect you too much but you may get a little bit of overboosting in the cold weather, easy to sort out as all you need to do is drill the restictor plug out a touch or even better, have the car mapped.
Tony
OP, cone filters are a bit of a on the MY99/00 cars due to the maf sensors being a little sensitive, would recommend going back to the standard air box.
A full decat shouldnt affect you too much but you may get a little bit of overboosting in the cold weather, easy to sort out as all you need to do is drill the restictor plug out a touch or even better, have the car mapped.
Tony
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Cheers for the replies guys,
I thought it was just the pre 2000 cars that needed a ecu reset when fitting a new maff?
also can any of you tell me what the preset is on a TD04 (How many threads on the actuator arm is please..)
I thought it was just the pre 2000 cars that needed a ecu reset when fitting a new maff?
also can any of you tell me what the preset is on a TD04 (How many threads on the actuator arm is please..)
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I think they'd all need a reset after changing any critical control parts? Won't do any harm to reset it so you might as well do it.
Do you mean wastegate spring preload? I found a guide on here that suggests a preload of 4mm. You need to adjust the "eye" on the end of the actuator rod to a gap of 4mm past the pin on the flap arm. You'll need to pull the actuator rod out a little to place it back on to the flap arm again once adjusted.
Do you mean wastegate spring preload? I found a guide on here that suggests a preload of 4mm. You need to adjust the "eye" on the end of the actuator rod to a gap of 4mm past the pin on the flap arm. You'll need to pull the actuator rod out a little to place it back on to the flap arm again once adjusted.
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Well I disconnected the battery for about 4 hours and drove it steadily for about 7 miles and it still does it ...?
Also I booted it this morning and it was almost like fuel cut/boost @ 55mph I nearly went trough the windscreen ...?
I did manage to look t the boost gauge and it was only boosting @0.8/0.9 bar which is normal ..
I'm starting to think it could be a bad fuel pump .. was told to check the "Teabag" on the fuel pump ...?
Also I booted it this morning and it was almost like fuel cut/boost @ 55mph I nearly went trough the windscreen ...?
I did manage to look t the boost gauge and it was only boosting @0.8/0.9 bar which is normal ..
I'm starting to think it could be a bad fuel pump .. was told to check the "Teabag" on the fuel pump ...?
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Yeah there's a filter on the bottom of the fuel pump that looks a bit like a tea bag I suppose. You might have a bad MAP sensor if you're getting fuel cut. That means the ECU is seeing boost higher than what you are. Is your boost gauge known to be reasonably accurate?
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Well i think I've nailed it ....DUMP VALVE...I caught it out the corner of my eye,I have a forge twin spring dump valve its the small spring being to week and being forced open ..
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