fuel filler neck help/advice
hello all
has anyone changed a fuel filler neck before I got a v-small leak when I full tank it. i just had a look and the hole pipe is crazy rusty
with a small crack at the top. I do all my work on the floor with a jack and axle stand isit a ramp job?
any tips so I don't damage anything its really really rusty? and will I need to empty my tank ?
appreciate any advice/help
has anyone changed a fuel filler neck before I got a v-small leak when I full tank it. i just had a look and the hole pipe is crazy rusty
with a small crack at the top. I do all my work on the floor with a jack and axle stand isit a ramp job?any tips so I don't damage anything its really really rusty? and will I need to empty my tank ?
appreciate any advice/help
Wheel off and you can do it on stands. First take off the plastic cover and then undo the bolts in the filler flap area and I think there is one about half way down in the wheel arch. Pull it out, lob it in the bin. Pay about £90 for a new one then jobs a goodun. Potential issues are the bolts which are almost always a bitch and sometimes need drilling out (not ideal near fuel). The filler goes in the top part of the tank so if the car is jacked at the rear it will be fine as long as it's about 80% or less full.
I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.
I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?
I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.
I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?
Wheel off and you can do it on stands. First take off the plastic cover and then undo the bolts in the filler flap area and I think there is one about half way down in the wheel arch. Pull it out, lob it in the bin. Pay about £90 for a new one then jobs a goodun. Potential issues are the bolts which are almost always a bitch and sometimes need drilling out (not ideal near fuel). The filler goes in the top part of the tank so if the car is jacked at the rear it will be fine as long as it's about 80% or less full.
I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.
I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?
I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.
I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?
perfect I tryd to find a guide online but no luck thank you very much for that
what precautions would you recommend ? the only precautions I had in mind was gloves lol
I had to fix mine too, on stands as well. I was lucky enough and was able to get almost all the bolts off without breaking them. I replaced them all with stainless items on refitting, including the Philips head screws inside the filler flap.
I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.
I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.
I had to fix mine too, on stands as well. I was lucky enough and was able to get almost all the bolts off without breaking them. I replaced them all with stainless items on refitting, including the Philips head screws inside the filler flap.
I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.
I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.
il grab some black Hammerite tomoz will that prevent it from rusting? and RCM have a filler neck for £75 so il spray that
Thanks for the tips
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,778
Likes: 4
From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
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I got some heat wrap left from when I did my exhaust thanks for the tip
that's why I thought it may be a ramp job but I got a whole day to do it so I should be ok I hope
thanks for the replies everyone
I would paint with stone chip spray from dinitrol or similar. Or coat with rubber.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,778
Likes: 4
From: Newcastle. 330bhp-289lb/ft @ 1bar boost - 12.4s @ 105mph
I'd love to have a ramp to work on my car, Thanks. 
Can you get me a crane as well, only place to fit my car, or a ramp, is in the back garden, so I'd need to lift it over the house.
Can you get me a crane as well, only place to fit my car, or a ramp, is in the back garden, so I'd need to lift it over the house.
Ok mick , missing my Sunday dinns for this 1 lol
I have created a simple situation so as not to use garage equipment in order to complete this task ( if you do wish to do so ) I have some home made wooden ramps ( I made years back ) sitting in back of garage so thought I would start with these . Next standard jack from yours or anyone's boot . Drive car in reverse onto ramp , jack up & remove wheel .
This is what it looks like today


Climb under car ( making sure it is supported with a axle stand or a wheel ect ect
Once you have removed all your upper fixings & shroud etc , your looking for the fixing point to tank , wich is located here

As you can see we're I'm pointing its a little set back so I will pan out a bit

You make experience a few rubber pipes wich are happy to sit in your way , thease are from your evap system , since I junked my system I don't have that trouble lol.
Anyway here's a better pic what you need to undo, you can just see the head of the bolt , it really isn't to hard to get to


Once you have the head undone the filler pipe will release in a twisting motion & your job is done . Reverse stepps to complete .. Thanks for your time ( happy Sunday everyone)
I have created a simple situation so as not to use garage equipment in order to complete this task ( if you do wish to do so ) I have some home made wooden ramps ( I made years back ) sitting in back of garage so thought I would start with these . Next standard jack from yours or anyone's boot . Drive car in reverse onto ramp , jack up & remove wheel .
This is what it looks like today


Climb under car ( making sure it is supported with a axle stand or a wheel ect ect
Once you have removed all your upper fixings & shroud etc , your looking for the fixing point to tank , wich is located here

As you can see we're I'm pointing its a little set back so I will pan out a bit

You make experience a few rubber pipes wich are happy to sit in your way , thease are from your evap system , since I junked my system I don't have that trouble lol.
Anyway here's a better pic what you need to undo, you can just see the head of the bolt , it really isn't to hard to get to


Once you have the head undone the filler pipe will release in a twisting motion & your job is done . Reverse stepps to complete .. Thanks for your time ( happy Sunday everyone)
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