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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Default fuel filler neck help/advice

hello all


has anyone changed a fuel filler neck before I got a v-small leak when I full tank it. i just had a look and the hole pipe is crazy rusty with a small crack at the top. I do all my work on the floor with a jack and axle stand isit a ramp job?
any tips so I don't damage anything its really really rusty? and will I need to empty my tank ?


appreciate any advice/help
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:10 PM
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Wheel off and you can do it on stands. First take off the plastic cover and then undo the bolts in the filler flap area and I think there is one about half way down in the wheel arch. Pull it out, lob it in the bin. Pay about £90 for a new one then jobs a goodun. Potential issues are the bolts which are almost always a bitch and sometimes need drilling out (not ideal near fuel). The filler goes in the top part of the tank so if the car is jacked at the rear it will be fine as long as it's about 80% or less full.

I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.

I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by FMJ
Wheel off and you can do it on stands. First take off the plastic cover and then undo the bolts in the filler flap area and I think there is one about half way down in the wheel arch. Pull it out, lob it in the bin. Pay about £90 for a new one then jobs a goodun. Potential issues are the bolts which are almost always a bitch and sometimes need drilling out (not ideal near fuel). The filler goes in the top part of the tank so if the car is jacked at the rear it will be fine as long as it's about 80% or less full.

I have had a used one (that didn't leak) shot blasted and powder coated and its about as good as you can get to prevent it happening again.

I'm going to assume you will take precautions enough not to end up part of a Subaru fireball?


perfect I tryd to find a guide online but no luck thank you very much for that


what precautions would you recommend ? the only precautions I had in mind was gloves lol
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:38 PM
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I had to fix mine too, on stands as well. I was lucky enough and was able to get almost all the bolts off without breaking them. I replaced them all with stainless items on refitting, including the Philips head screws inside the filler flap.

I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by piehole1983
I had to fix mine too, on stands as well. I was lucky enough and was able to get almost all the bolts off without breaking them. I replaced them all with stainless items on refitting, including the Philips head screws inside the filler flap.

I repaired mine with metal loaded epoxy resin, shaped it all once cured, cold galvanised it and then painted it with black Hammerite. It's been fine now going on 2 years. The plastic guard at the bottom seems to be the issue, it holds dirt and stays wet. Just make sure you clean it out every so often and all should be well for years.




il grab some black Hammerite tomoz will that prevent it from rusting? and RCM have a filler neck for £75 so il spray that


Thanks for the tips
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Leave the guard off, thats the problem. Wrap it with a bit of exhaust wrap and it will stop stones hitting it. Its the guard that holds the mud and dirt against the filler neck.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WRXghost
what precautions would you recommend?
I recommend you have plenty of time to do it, lying on your back trying to get the pipe back in. Don't expect to have it swapped in half an hour!
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rb5 stu
Leave the guard off, thats the problem. Wrap it with a bit of exhaust wrap and it will stop stones hitting it. Its the guard that holds the mud and dirt against the filler neck.

I got some heat wrap left from when I did my exhaust thanks for the tip

Originally Posted by mickywrx
I recommend you have plenty of time to do it, lying on your back trying to get the pipe back in. Don't expect to have it swapped in half an hour!


that's why I thought it may be a ramp job but I got a whole day to do it so I should be ok I hope


thanks for the replies everyone
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rb5 stu
Leave the guard off, thats the problem. Wrap it with a bit of exhaust wrap and it will stop stones hitting it. Its the guard that holds the mud and dirt against the filler neck.
Not all wishing to pick holes but exhuast wrap will get wet and hold moisture against the metal. In the winter it will stay wet for weeks on end. It's a good idea to ditch the plastic bit and a good idea to protect the pipe from stones but I wouldn't use something that holds moisture.

I would paint with stone chip spray from dinitrol or similar. Or coat with rubber.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FMJ
I would paint with stone chip spray from dinitrol or similar. Or coat with rubber.


I just had a look at dinitrol thanks
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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It would be a hell of a lot easier if you had access to a ramp.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
It would be a hell of a lot easier if you had access to a ramp.


that's what I said when I was under it today. who knows I may win the lottery one day then il buy everyone on SN ramps lol
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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I'd love to have a ramp to work on my car, Thanks.

Can you get me a crane as well, only place to fit my car, or a ramp, is in the back garden, so I'd need to lift it over the house.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mickywrx
I'd love to have a ramp to work on my car, Thanks.

Can you get me a crane as well, only place to fit my car, or a ramp, is in the back garden, so I'd need to lift it over the house.
For you anything lool
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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I was gonna say that exhaust wrap would get wet and hold moisture. I just keep my plastic guard clean, for the sake of 10mins to do it.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 10:52 PM
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Easy to do on stands
As above removed mine last year
Cleaned , & wrapped

Changed the ties since this pic along with a few other bits but the fuel filler is still the same & no probs
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jazzyjembreaze
Easy to do on stands As above removed mine last year Cleaned , & wrapped Changed the ties since this pic along with a few other bits but the fuel filler is still the same & no probs
That's some nice clean undercarriage!
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 06:56 AM
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Sorry deleted by mistake
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 07:11 AM
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 09:10 PM
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Good idea with the cable ties looks clean
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Mic, can you take a pic of where it mounts to the tank, please?
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 09:23 PM
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Hi Micky
Will get under the car 2moz for you , not sure how the pic will turn out as it's quite back , will try ma best for you tho bud
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 12:40 PM
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Ok mick , missing my Sunday dinns for this 1 lol
I have created a simple situation so as not to use garage equipment in order to complete this task ( if you do wish to do so ) I have some home made wooden ramps ( I made years back ) sitting in back of garage so thought I would start with these . Next standard jack from yours or anyone's boot . Drive car in reverse onto ramp , jack up & remove wheel .
This is what it looks like today



Climb under car ( making sure it is supported with a axle stand or a wheel ect ect
Once you have removed all your upper fixings & shroud etc , your looking for the fixing point to tank , wich is located here

As you can see we're I'm pointing its a little set back so I will pan out a bit

You make experience a few rubber pipes wich are happy to sit in your way , thease are from your evap system , since I junked my system I don't have that trouble lol.
Anyway here's a better pic what you need to undo, you can just see the head of the bolt , it really isn't to hard to get to



Once you have the head undone the filler pipe will release in a twisting motion & your job is done . Reverse stepps to complete .. Thanks for your time ( happy Sunday everyone)
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:15 PM
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Good guide

you no the extra pipe on the side of the filler neck do you just pull it out ?



ordered my new one today


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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WRXghost
Good guide you no the extra pipe on the side of the filler neck do you just pull it out ? ordered my new one today
Yeah, the one on the side of the vertical part? Just pop it off too.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by piehole1983
Yeah, the one on the side of the vertical part? Just pop it off too.


yh the vertical part, thanks
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