terzoman2014

Right, I will likely have to remove the engine from my car soon
I had a quick look, and it looks a relatively straight forward removal!



Right, presuming the head gasket is the reason for misfires etc, I will replace both head gaskets, and since the timing belt will be disturbed I will replace that as well.....

BUT, I can't see the engine will suddenly gain 20psi+ compression...
So, is it worth just chucking new head gaskets on, or should I dig deeper?

Alan Jeffery

The trick is to dig as deep as you need to, otherwise, you'll fill the hole in, then have to dig it up again!

terzoman2014

Will also keep looking locally for a good condition engine, or even a rebuilt short/long block cheap........

terzoman2014

Right, pretty sure its head gasket failed.

Signs of water vapour in exhaust, coolant level has dropped a bit, and it smells of exhaust fumes.



So, opinions on best course of action?

Replace the head gaskets? considering the engine only tested 120~125psi on the cylinders that dont seem to have a head gasket problem?


Or get another running engine?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Engine out, replace head gaskets and then split the block, replace bottom end bearings, rebuild.

Go for better bearings if you can afford 'em. Mine has RCL Race.

dj219957

If the age and milage are high replace the bearings while your at it. It is a lot more work though.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

It's definitely worth doing if the hg have gone.

Scoobs have a habit of destroying the bottom end soon after an hg repair if you don't.

terzoman2014

How much work is it to replace the bottom engine bearings??? :/

And why do they have a habit of going after a HG repair??



I'm on a small budget so could really do with not having to spend out too much!

I was hoping I could just fit new head gaskets, and if it runs fine then I would replace the timing belt/etc.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I don't really know WHY they go...maybe after running on an oil/water mix? maybe swarf? But I've read so many reports on here where hg's have been done, and it's then been engine out and bearings done 6 months later.

IF you do it now, you will get away with using the old, well-cleaned oil modine etc.

If the bearings let go, that's another expense.

BTW: nobody told me, and mine did exactly what I've told you. Sadly, near Abbeville in France. Cost me nearly €700 to get the car to Dover where the RAC took over.

dj219957

I think theres a bit too much scoobynet myth/scarmongery here.
Bearings will only fail after headgasket due to the age/mileage, its not a given. i.e I changed my bearing when I did the gaksets because the bearings were 20 years old with 85k. If the miles and age are good the bearings will be fine so long as there is no water/oil contamination.

sweden

iTrader: (2)

Surely the question should be why wouldn't you check them, unless of course you are a professional gambler as that's all you'll be doing simple.

dj219957

If your paying a garage its gonna cost considerably more. that's the gamble.

sweden

iTrader: (2)

Not as much if it goes bang and needs rebuilding 3 months later

terzoman2014

well my engine has no water/oil contamination.

its blowing from cylinder into water ways only.




I know the bearings will be old/worn but they are fine currently, and have good oil in the car.



Money is a serious issue at the moment, so my plan was to change the head gaskets.
everything should be ok and the engine should run fine then, so if it does I will then do the timing belt pretty much immediately

if in 3 months plus the bottom end starts knocking, well I will sort it then....



My eventual plan though is to get another block, and slowly as I can afford it build it up for a rotated turbo setup

sweden

iTrader: (2)

Good luck matey I seriously hope that it goes ok for you.

terzoman2014

Thanks! I'm hoping so too :/

anything special about removing the scooby engine from the car?

I've done quite a few engine swaps and several custom fit engines, but never actually removed a scooby engine :P

sweden

iTrader: (2)

Nah it's a seriously simple engine to remove, no special tools needed.

*matthewturb2000*

iTrader: (11)

Just remember to take out the pin that holds the clutch fork into the release bearing

dj219957

and protect the lambda sensor as it will catch on the chassis as you lift.

terzoman2014

thats excellent news having done a few very awkward vehicles it will be nice having a relatively easy one! :P


pin that holds the clutch fork onto the bearing? will have a look

and yeah I'm always very careful not to catch things on the chassis/etc

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

You will prob find poor seating of the exhaust valves ( pitting/micro welding of the seats/valve faces ) a contributing factor for a drop in compression.

Upper rod bearings do wear on the turbo engine and I would expect to see some signs of coppering of the bearings to a lesser or greater degree when stripped.

If the head gaskets have failed and coolant has contaminated the lubrication system,then pitting/flaking marks are often found on the main and rod bearings. Pitting/flaking wear to the bearings can also occur if the engine has suffered a misfire for some time and fuel dilation of the oil is left unchecked.

I would personally split the crankcases and check/replace the bearings instead of 'suck it and see' - cheaper in the long run instead of doing the same job twice.

just my 2 pence worth.

Mick

*matthewturb2000*

iTrader: (11)

There's a allen key plug passenger side of gearbox, take that out there's a rod behind the hole with a screw thread in middle,get a m6 or m8 can't remember off hand, screw it in a bit then I leavered mine out with a crow bar, have a look on Google to see the plug, think there a YouTube video showing how to do it

DJB3

Probably a good idea to skim the heads. Should only cost about £50. I would also advise asking machine shop to pressure test valves since you'll kick yourself if after HG job engine still runs badly due to valve leak(s).

terzoman2014

Hello everyone!

Its been a very long time and not done much to the impreza due to funds and weather as you can imagine


However, new job, nicer weather, and missing the car have amalgamated into removing the engine from the car!


Pretty sure the head gasket has failed, so will fit the pair of MLS gaskets if everything looks ok.



Have checked the timing marks on the cams (can't remove crank pulley, need special tool), but they dont line up!

#2 and #4 line up together and the marks on the casing.

#1 and #3 dont though, intake is 2 teeth CCW and exhaust is 1 tooth CCW!



So seems timing is out!

Tidgy

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if it is HG failure then it's total rebuild job. More then likely will have bearing damage as well

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

22mm socket on a breaker bar, wedge breaker bar on floor and a flick of the ignition switch will crack the pulley bolt loose. Pulley can then be removed by hand.


Mick

ricodjs

Had my HGs done, heads skimmed etc after they went only for the bearings to go 2 months later which was £2000 then followed by £4000 respectively.

My advice to you: Open up the block and check the bearings unless you like playing Russian Engine roulette and are happy to end up like me.


Ok, I may now have forged pistons, race bearings, racing HGs etc but I'd prefer to have chosen to blow £6k on parts of my selection.

dj219957

have you used the correct mark on the crank. arrow should point to the right

terzoman2014

Yeah am going to check bearings as want to also check pistons really!

Difficult to remove crank pulley with starter.... Engine is on a stand
Its off now though along with #1 and #3 cams and head


Head gasket doesnt appear to show signs of blowing though, the cylinder walls are clean and can see honing marks, however the valves are oily damp and crusty on #1, #3 looks as I would expect!

Not sure if i have a cracked ring land or broken ringland causing it......


Timing marks, I used correct ones, but the timing was definitely out on #1 and #3 :/ not sure if due to failure of tensioner or what!

terzoman2014

Update time!


Decided to do valve 'leaktest' by putting some petrol/wd40/etc down the ports onto the back of the valves.....

slight seepage past one intake valve on #3

steady drip from intake valve on #1


so will have to remove valves to see if seats are ok etc......

regrind them?