Expert opinion
Hi all,
I js changed by forge bov for a hks sqv 4 and noticed ive got less power and im not boosting as high, all is fitted correctly so ws wondering if i would have to get another remap with a new bov??? Sounds good with flutter at cruise speed n some poppin frm da exhaust but the power drop is notic
I js changed by forge bov for a hks sqv 4 and noticed ive got less power and im not boosting as high, all is fitted correctly so ws wondering if i would have to get another remap with a new bov??? Sounds good with flutter at cruise speed n some poppin frm da exhaust but the power drop is notic
Hi all,
I js changed by forge bov for a hks sqv 4 and noticed ive got less power and im not boosting as high, all is fitted correctly so ws wondering if i would have to get another remap with a new bov??? Sounds good with flutter at cruise speed n some poppin frm da exhaust but the power drop is notic
I js changed by forge bov for a hks sqv 4 and noticed ive got less power and im not boosting as high, all is fitted correctly so ws wondering if i would have to get another remap with a new bov??? Sounds good with flutter at cruise speed n some poppin frm da exhaust but the power drop is notic
A genuine one is probably the best bov out there IMO so as long as it's fitted correctly and not worn or damaged and it should not drop power.
Bov is genuine, bought from venom motorsport for a vw golf gti, frm my understanding this is a universal fit. Unfortunately i dnt have the original recirc valve as i bought the car with the forge bov originally. Might js put bak da forge, but for the moment i will enjoy the hks "squeakkk!!!'
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Thats weird then, all I assume is that the spring rate for the HKS will be too low as its not designed for a wrx, gti's make less boost pressure so the valve will open sooner. Older gti's make 7psi of boost and your car makes 13psi which would mean that the bov is opening before your car has reached it peak boost. That would explain the power loss. If this is the case then a new valve spring would solve it, however I am no expert so this is just an educated guess.
Edit. Coming to think of it aren't hks ssqv's adjustable? You may just be able to wind the spring tighter to solve it.
Edit. Coming to think of it aren't hks ssqv's adjustable? You may just be able to wind the spring tighter to solve it.
Last edited by LukeyB; Mar 21, 2014 at 10:03 AM.
thank you for contacting us regarding your HSK Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve. I hope the following answers your questions.
1.) The blow-off valve should never make any sound while accelerating. The only time it should ever be audible is when it's activated by throttle lifts. There are some cars that will experience a vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure change in the manifold under part-throttle lifts. This rapid positive to negative pressure change can cause the valve to open and closed repeatedly, giving you this "fluttering" sound that you described.
2.) Yes, all of the Super Sequential Blow-Off Valves are universal, and all of our vehicle specific kits use the same valve.
3.) If you are recirculation the valve on your EVO and are still experience "stumbling" problems, I would check the installation. Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition and is seated properly. The second thing to check is the C-clip (expansion ring). The C-clip has a top and bottom to it. If you look closely one side has a flat surface, and the other side has a round surface, be sure that the flat side goes towards the flange (O-ring side) and the round side towards the valve. You will need C-clip pliers (expansion ring pliers) to do this.
4.) Do not touch the nut on the back of the valve ! (I wish we never put that on there ! ) Adjusting that nut does NOT change the opening rate, efficiency or timing of the valve. HKS valves are "pull-type" valves, meaning they have to "pull" open against the boost for them to open. The more boost you run, the more the boost pushes them closed. Some vehicles have more vacuum than others. If high enough, it is possible for a vehicle's vacuum at idle to accidentally pull the valve open, causing a vacuum leak. It is for this reason that HKS employees an adjustment nut on the back of the valve to allow the spring tension to be adjusted, ensuring that the valve is closed and not leaking while the vehicle is idling. If you have played with this nut, I would suggest getting it back to the middle adjusting point while being VERY careful NOT to let the nut fall out, or turn it too tight as to puncture a hole in the blow -off valve diaphragm. As long as it's not leaking at idle, your fine.
5.) To test your blow-off valve, start the car, let it idle, and open the hood. While looking at the valve, rev the car quickly once and stop. Although no boost is ever generated at idle, this throttle on-off sequence should be enough to engage the blow-off valve, and you should be able to se the valve actually open and then close. If it does not do this, check all that I have mentioned above.
If you are still in need of assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thanks
Ryan Bates
Sales & Tech
HKS U.S.A., Inc.
(310) 491-3307
[img]cid:417480618@07072004-11A0[/img]
1.) The blow-off valve should never make any sound while accelerating. The only time it should ever be audible is when it's activated by throttle lifts. There are some cars that will experience a vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure change in the manifold under part-throttle lifts. This rapid positive to negative pressure change can cause the valve to open and closed repeatedly, giving you this "fluttering" sound that you described.
2.) Yes, all of the Super Sequential Blow-Off Valves are universal, and all of our vehicle specific kits use the same valve.
3.) If you are recirculation the valve on your EVO and are still experience "stumbling" problems, I would check the installation. Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition and is seated properly. The second thing to check is the C-clip (expansion ring). The C-clip has a top and bottom to it. If you look closely one side has a flat surface, and the other side has a round surface, be sure that the flat side goes towards the flange (O-ring side) and the round side towards the valve. You will need C-clip pliers (expansion ring pliers) to do this.
4.) Do not touch the nut on the back of the valve ! (I wish we never put that on there ! ) Adjusting that nut does NOT change the opening rate, efficiency or timing of the valve. HKS valves are "pull-type" valves, meaning they have to "pull" open against the boost for them to open. The more boost you run, the more the boost pushes them closed. Some vehicles have more vacuum than others. If high enough, it is possible for a vehicle's vacuum at idle to accidentally pull the valve open, causing a vacuum leak. It is for this reason that HKS employees an adjustment nut on the back of the valve to allow the spring tension to be adjusted, ensuring that the valve is closed and not leaking while the vehicle is idling. If you have played with this nut, I would suggest getting it back to the middle adjusting point while being VERY careful NOT to let the nut fall out, or turn it too tight as to puncture a hole in the blow -off valve diaphragm. As long as it's not leaking at idle, your fine.
5.) To test your blow-off valve, start the car, let it idle, and open the hood. While looking at the valve, rev the car quickly once and stop. Although no boost is ever generated at idle, this throttle on-off sequence should be enough to engage the blow-off valve, and you should be able to se the valve actually open and then close. If it does not do this, check all that I have mentioned above.
If you are still in need of assistance, please feel free to contact us.
Thanks
Ryan Bates
Sales & Tech
HKS U.S.A., Inc.
(310) 491-3307
[img]cid:417480618@07072004-11A0[/img]
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