Classic Facelift Modding
01 June 2008, 04:31 PM
#1
Classic Facelift Modding
First stage of mods, though not performance wise, but it's still modding none the less.
Chaptor 1.
I.C.E
I already had a pair of Alpine 6x9's and a Sony Xplod 400w 4 channel amp from my Old Scoob so the hunt was on for some new toys. After a lot of trawling through good ole fleabay, I picked up some great bargains.
Kenwood KDC-M7024 head unit - £45 this was sold as faulty as it wouldn't play CD's, but I stripped it down, cleaned it and now it works perfect!
Wharfedale DVD player with 7" motorised screen - £20 again, sold as faulty. The previous owner said the screen wouldn't work, but I can only summerise that the person didn't connect the safety hand brake wire which disable's the screen when the car is being driven.
As my Scoob only has a single DIN aperature some drastic action had to be taken, so it was out with the console and dremel and I cut the cigarette lighter and ashtray out, so now got 2 DIN aperatures.
The original rear shelf speakers were taken out and the Alpine 6x9's put in their place, though are mounted under the shelf as the holes aren't big enough for the speakers. I used the wires that came with the speakers instead of the car's standard loom so I can easily feed them from the amp. Though the wires are naff standard speaker wire and some decent OFC (oxygen Free Cable) will be bought at some stage.
The front speakers leave a lot to be disired, so they were ditched in favour of some Infintiy 6010CS reference speakers ( £40 from fleabay again) These are 6.5" components with passive crossovers and tweeters. All I had to do was to take the original speaker mounts in the doors out and replace them with the mounts supplied. The cross over are mounted behind the door cards so shouldn't get wet and the tweeters are mounted on the mirror panels, which turned out to be a very close fit when the doors are closed! I bought 10 metres of 2mm OFC cable to wire it all in and again, I used the cable to connect the speakers to the amp instead of using the original loom. I didn't bother to take pictures of this install as it really is a case of swapping speakers around and just drilling new holes to secure them.
The DVD player is wired into the Kenwood H/U by using an autochanger adaptor lead. Though the actual DVD can't be controlled bu the H/U, the sound output is.
The Kenwood has full audio control for Bass, Midrange and treble, so after spending ages upsetting the neighbours, Top Gun sounds bl00dy good!!
Just got to find my Bass Mechaniks speaker test CD to set the system up properly
Chaptor 1.
I.C.E
I already had a pair of Alpine 6x9's and a Sony Xplod 400w 4 channel amp from my Old Scoob so the hunt was on for some new toys. After a lot of trawling through good ole fleabay, I picked up some great bargains.
Kenwood KDC-M7024 head unit - £45 this was sold as faulty as it wouldn't play CD's, but I stripped it down, cleaned it and now it works perfect!
Wharfedale DVD player with 7" motorised screen - £20 again, sold as faulty. The previous owner said the screen wouldn't work, but I can only summerise that the person didn't connect the safety hand brake wire which disable's the screen when the car is being driven.
As my Scoob only has a single DIN aperature some drastic action had to be taken, so it was out with the console and dremel and I cut the cigarette lighter and ashtray out, so now got 2 DIN aperatures.
The original rear shelf speakers were taken out and the Alpine 6x9's put in their place, though are mounted under the shelf as the holes aren't big enough for the speakers. I used the wires that came with the speakers instead of the car's standard loom so I can easily feed them from the amp. Though the wires are naff standard speaker wire and some decent OFC (oxygen Free Cable) will be bought at some stage.
The front speakers leave a lot to be disired, so they were ditched in favour of some Infintiy 6010CS reference speakers ( £40 from fleabay again) These are 6.5" components with passive crossovers and tweeters. All I had to do was to take the original speaker mounts in the doors out and replace them with the mounts supplied. The cross over are mounted behind the door cards so shouldn't get wet and the tweeters are mounted on the mirror panels, which turned out to be a very close fit when the doors are closed! I bought 10 metres of 2mm OFC cable to wire it all in and again, I used the cable to connect the speakers to the amp instead of using the original loom. I didn't bother to take pictures of this install as it really is a case of swapping speakers around and just drilling new holes to secure them.
The DVD player is wired into the Kenwood H/U by using an autochanger adaptor lead. Though the actual DVD can't be controlled bu the H/U, the sound output is.
The Kenwood has full audio control for Bass, Midrange and treble, so after spending ages upsetting the neighbours, Top Gun sounds bl00dy good!!
Just got to find my Bass Mechaniks speaker test CD to set the system up properly
01 June 2008, 10:53 PM
#2
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You'll be getting one of those chavvy loud cars with a body kit, massive exhaust and cruising down Southend once a month if you carry on like that Paul
..................hold on
Looking good fella, have a word with Kev B if you want any entertaining films
..................hold on
Looking good fella, have a word with Kev B if you want any entertaining films
my brother did mention how funny it would be to have an "entertaining" film blaring out
10 July 2008, 10:39 PM
#7
Chaptor 2:
Inlet manifold mods.
Didn't intend doing this so soon, but got no choice. I noticed the turbo intake pipe had split and gaffer tap had been used to try to fix the problem.
When I saw the tear, my heart sank, t
he first thing I thought of was the tapping noise was piston slap, where too much air is being drawn in, making the engine run lean, causing detonation and killing the piston rings on No.4 cylinder. I done a compression test and found each cylinder was hitting 150psi, so no problem. I took of the cam cover and found the exhaust valve lifters on No.4 cylinder to be very loose, so will need to buy some shims!
The inlet manifold had to be taken off to get the intake pipe out, so while it's off, I may as well do some mods so I don't have to take the manifold off again.
Mod 1 - Parallel fuel rails. There are a couple of ways to do this, the cheap way, and the expensive way. As I've got most of the gear in the garage, I will be going the cheaper option. This involves rubber fuel line, Y pieces and jubilee clips. Will write a more detailed guide when I do the job.
Mod 2 - Reverse inlet manifold. Seeing as though this is already off, it would be rude not to give it a go. The fuel lines and wiring loom were taken off and the manifold was put into it's new position. The bolt holes all lined up and looked pretty good. I closed the bonnet - carefully, and there don't seem to be a problem with clearance. The alternator bracket will need to be modified as the alternator will have to be repositioned where the A/C compressor should be, but apart from that, nothing major. Again, a guide with pics will be done when I do the job.
Another mod I found while browsing the technical forum is the removal of the water line for the throttle body, but not sure if thats a good idea. Apparently a few people who have done this said they didn't have any problems.
Inlet manifold mods.
Didn't intend doing this so soon, but got no choice. I noticed the turbo intake pipe had split and gaffer tap had been used to try to fix the problem.
When I saw the tear, my heart sank, t
he first thing I thought of was the tapping noise was piston slap, where too much air is being drawn in, making the engine run lean, causing detonation and killing the piston rings on No.4 cylinder. I done a compression test and found each cylinder was hitting 150psi, so no problem. I took of the cam cover and found the exhaust valve lifters on No.4 cylinder to be very loose, so will need to buy some shims!
The inlet manifold had to be taken off to get the intake pipe out, so while it's off, I may as well do some mods so I don't have to take the manifold off again.
Mod 1 - Parallel fuel rails. There are a couple of ways to do this, the cheap way, and the expensive way. As I've got most of the gear in the garage, I will be going the cheaper option. This involves rubber fuel line, Y pieces and jubilee clips. Will write a more detailed guide when I do the job.
Mod 2 - Reverse inlet manifold. Seeing as though this is already off, it would be rude not to give it a go. The fuel lines and wiring loom were taken off and the manifold was put into it's new position. The bolt holes all lined up and looked pretty good. I closed the bonnet - carefully, and there don't seem to be a problem with clearance. The alternator bracket will need to be modified as the alternator will have to be repositioned where the A/C compressor should be, but apart from that, nothing major. Again, a guide with pics will be done when I do the job.
Another mod I found while browsing the technical forum is the removal of the water line for the throttle body, but not sure if thats a good idea. Apparently a few people who have done this said they didn't have any problems.
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11 July 2008, 09:48 AM
#10
Chaptor 2:
Inlet manifold mods.
Didn't intend doing this so soon, but got no choice. I noticed the turbo intake pipe had split and gaffer tap had been used to try to fix the problem.
When I saw the tear, my heart sank, t
he first thing I thought of was the tapping noise was piston slap, where too much air is being drawn in, making the engine run lean, causing detonation and killing the piston rings on No.4 cylinder. I done a compression test and found each cylinder was hitting 150psi, so no problem. I took of the cam cover and found the exhaust valve lifters on No.4 cylinder to be very loose, so will need to buy some shims!
The inlet manifold had to be taken off to get the intake pipe out, so while it's off, I may as well do some mods so I don't have to take the manifold off again.
Mod 1 - Parallel fuel rails. There are a couple of ways to do this, the cheap way, and the expensive way. As I've got most of the gear in the garage, I will be going the cheaper option. This involves rubber fuel line, Y pieces and jubilee clips. Will write a more detailed guide when I do the job.
Mod 2 - Reverse inlet manifold. Seeing as though this is already off, it would be rude not to give it a go. The fuel lines and wiring loom were taken off and the manifold was put into it's new position. The bolt holes all lined up and looked pretty good. I closed the bonnet - carefully, and there don't seem to be a problem with clearance. The alternator bracket will need to be modified as the alternator will have to be repositioned where the A/C compressor should be, but apart from that, nothing major. Again, a guide with pics will be done when I do the job.
Another mod I found while browsing the technical forum is the removal of the water line for the throttle body, but not sure if thats a good idea. Apparently a few people who have done this said they didn't have any problems.
Inlet manifold mods.
Didn't intend doing this so soon, but got no choice. I noticed the turbo intake pipe had split and gaffer tap had been used to try to fix the problem.
When I saw the tear, my heart sank, t
he first thing I thought of was the tapping noise was piston slap, where too much air is being drawn in, making the engine run lean, causing detonation and killing the piston rings on No.4 cylinder. I done a compression test and found each cylinder was hitting 150psi, so no problem. I took of the cam cover and found the exhaust valve lifters on No.4 cylinder to be very loose, so will need to buy some shims!
The inlet manifold had to be taken off to get the intake pipe out, so while it's off, I may as well do some mods so I don't have to take the manifold off again.
Mod 1 - Parallel fuel rails. There are a couple of ways to do this, the cheap way, and the expensive way. As I've got most of the gear in the garage, I will be going the cheaper option. This involves rubber fuel line, Y pieces and jubilee clips. Will write a more detailed guide when I do the job.
Mod 2 - Reverse inlet manifold. Seeing as though this is already off, it would be rude not to give it a go. The fuel lines and wiring loom were taken off and the manifold was put into it's new position. The bolt holes all lined up and looked pretty good. I closed the bonnet - carefully, and there don't seem to be a problem with clearance. The alternator bracket will need to be modified as the alternator will have to be repositioned where the A/C compressor should be, but apart from that, nothing major. Again, a guide with pics will be done when I do the job.
Another mod I found while browsing the technical forum is the removal of the water line for the throttle body, but not sure if thats a good idea. Apparently a few people who have done this said they didn't have any problems.
11 July 2008, 12:38 PM
#15
11 July 2008, 12:53 PM
#16
Parallel fuel rail mod
Part 1
Parts needed.
8mm fuel line about 2m should be enough
8mm steel/brass Y connector
12 jubilee clips to suit.
tube cutter ( don't want to get any swarf from sawing the rails)
This is a manifold off jobby, so while it's off, now would be a good time to paint it
just got to source the Y pieces, so it's a trip to Hiflex in Basildon
Part 1
Parts needed.
8mm fuel line about 2m should be enough
8mm steel/brass Y connector
12 jubilee clips to suit.
tube cutter ( don't want to get any swarf from sawing the rails)
This is a manifold off jobby, so while it's off, now would be a good time to paint it
just got to source the Y pieces, so it's a trip to Hiflex in Basildon
11 July 2008, 02:01 PM
#18
Parallel fuel rail mod
Part 1
Parts needed.
8mm fuel line about 2m should be enough
8mm steel/brass Y connector
12 jubilee clips to suit.
tube cutter ( don't want to get any swarf from sawing the rails)
This is a manifold off jobby, so while it's off, now would be a good time to paint it
just got to source the Y pieces, so it's a trip to Hiflex in Basildon
Part 1
Parts needed.
8mm fuel line about 2m should be enough
8mm steel/brass Y connector
12 jubilee clips to suit.
tube cutter ( don't want to get any swarf from sawing the rails)
This is a manifold off jobby, so while it's off, now would be a good time to paint it
just got to source the Y pieces, so it's a trip to Hiflex in Basildon
11 July 2008, 11:13 PM
#23
Another mod I'll be doing while the inlet manifold is off is to fit an oil catch tank, so that vapour from the heads/crankcase doesn't contaminate the combustion process and rob power!
Found a good guide in General Technical. Some people just run the pipe work from the heads and crankcase along the gearbox and just have it vented to air while others fit these pipes into an oil catch tank. For now, I will be just venting them to air until I find a nice looking catch tank.
Anyway, the guide is here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...k-fitting.html
Found a good guide in General Technical. Some people just run the pipe work from the heads and crankcase along the gearbox and just have it vented to air while others fit these pipes into an oil catch tank. For now, I will be just venting them to air until I find a nice looking catch tank.
Anyway, the guide is here:
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...k-fitting.html
12 July 2008, 09:14 AM
#24
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Paul, i have it on great authority, that the roger clark catcher tank is about as good as it gets...
mine is vented to "road" at the minute, but will be RCM very soon !!!
mine is vented to "road" at the minute, but will be RCM very soon !!!
14 July 2008, 10:52 PM
#26
Started work on the inlet manifold mods over the weekend, so here goes.
Camshafts anyone?
Inlet manifold removed from engine, with breather pipes, intake pipe and wiring loom removed:
Trial fitting to see how much work is involved in rotating the inlet:
The manifold fits in nicely, AND the bonnet closes without fouling so far so good!!
The alternator needs to be repositioned to where the A/C should be, but as my Scoob hasn't got it - plenty of room!! though as the alternator has got to be flipped, the bracket needed to be modified slightly, this involved cutting a small slither out of both corners, the side section bent forward and welded up.
The inlet manifold stripped down bare:
And now masked up and painted:
I painted it with red hammerite. didn't want to try and make the car look like an STI, hence using hammerite instead of crinkle red. I'm not really happy with the colour to be honest, so probably will respray it black at a later date.
Injectors:
Pipe work cut down ready for the parallel fuel rail conversion:
New pipe work ready for the next part:
Camshafts anyone?
Inlet manifold removed from engine, with breather pipes, intake pipe and wiring loom removed:
Trial fitting to see how much work is involved in rotating the inlet:
The manifold fits in nicely, AND the bonnet closes without fouling
so far so good!!The alternator needs to be repositioned to where the A/C should be, but as my Scoob hasn't got it - plenty of room!! though as the alternator has got to be flipped, the bracket needed to be modified slightly, this involved cutting a small slither out of both corners, the side section bent forward and welded up.
The inlet manifold stripped down bare:
And now masked up and painted:
I painted it with red hammerite. didn't want to try and make the car look like an STI, hence using hammerite instead of crinkle red. I'm not really happy with the colour to be honest, so probably will respray it black at a later date.
Injectors:
Pipe work cut down ready for the parallel fuel rail conversion:
New pipe work ready for the next part:
15 July 2008, 12:59 AM
#28
Paul, post your pics in Img boxes and they will be displayed on your thread.
I have deleted the coolant on my throttle body. It was one of the first things done on the car and i have no issue to report. Been like that for way over 2 years now.
The RCM catch tank has a return to sump as well as a VTA so any oil can return to the oil pan without being wasted. Similar to my new system
I have deleted the coolant on my throttle body. It was one of the first things done on the car and i have no issue to report. Been like that for way over 2 years now.
The RCM catch tank has a return to sump as well as a VTA so any oil can return to the oil pan without being wasted. Similar to my new system
15 July 2008, 07:53 AM
#29
Frayz, thanks for the heads up How does the catch tank connect to the sump? does it go into the sump plug?
For somereason, whether I post pics using my Photobucket account, they never come up on the thread, but when I use motormeet in exactly the same way, there's never a problem! I must be doing something fundamentally wrong, but can't work out what it is!
How does the catch tank connect to the sump? does it go into the sump plug?For somereason, whether I post pics using my Photobucket account, they never come up on the thread, but when I use motormeet in exactly the same way, there's never a problem! I must be doing something fundamentally wrong, but can't work out what it is!