Clutch blues.....
20 January 2007, 07:52 PM
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Clutch blues.....
I've notice recently that the Terzo was not as quick as it could be from launch despite the mods I've done......
When I brought the car I noticed that it had a new clutch fitted on 07/04/05
It's since done approx. 14K miles and to be honest I never notice when driving everyday apart from fast starts from stand still where it feels sluggish?
Is this clutch life normal? Last time on the rollers it ran 240 BHP and 234 of torque. It's been fully decatted with a Dawes running 1bar PSI
I could leave it but I feel it something's missing....
Should I be looking at a uprated clutch?
Help?
Bibo
When I brought the car I noticed that it had a new clutch fitted on 07/04/05
It's since done approx. 14K miles and to be honest I never notice when driving everyday apart from fast starts from stand still where it feels sluggish?
Is this clutch life normal? Last time on the rollers it ran 240 BHP and 234 of torque. It's been fully decatted with a Dawes running 1bar PSI
I could leave it but I feel it something's missing....
Should I be looking at a uprated clutch?
Help?
Bibo
I would have gone through two by then
20 January 2007, 08:27 PM
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Still on my 1st one 59,500 Miles later
20 January 2007, 08:33 PM
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20 January 2007, 08:44 PM
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I dont think any clutch likes being released at high revs TBH, your bound to get a smell.
Is it a OE clutch fitted, The standard clutch Xtremes fitted for me first time around lasted around 5 months and only a few thousand miles.
20 January 2007, 08:48 PM
#9
If it is the clutch I am surprised as the engine torque is not excessive.
Maybe you have a crank seal weeping?
If you change it get an exeedy from API (or an AP organic)
Graham
Maybe you have a crank seal weeping?
If you change it get an exeedy from API (or an AP organic)
Graham
20 January 2007, 08:49 PM
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Yep.... OE clutch.
I don't always drive like a loon (honestly), bit I guess it's driven how it needs to be
Also, if I change the clutch to something like a grp1 Exedy then do I need to change flywheel at same time?
I don't always drive like a loon (honestly), bit I guess it's driven how it needs to be
Also, if I change the clutch to something like a grp1 Exedy then do I need to change flywheel at same time?
20 January 2007, 08:52 PM
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You should have the flywheel removed and skimmed when you have a clutch cjanged, not costly, most garages just keep a stock of them so just swop them over and charge a small fee.
But then again for the sake of a few extra £ you might as well have a lightened item
20 January 2007, 08:56 PM
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21 January 2007, 06:09 PM
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Only 1 bar, wind it up to about 1.3 or just before the fuel cut out starts interrupting. Have you got a knocklink, if not get one asap.
You should notice one helluva difference mate
(Won't help your clutch woes though
)
70,000+ on original clutch for me
You should notice one helluva difference mate
(Won't help your clutch woes though
)70,000+ on original clutch for me
21 January 2007, 06:09 PM
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21 January 2007, 07:04 PM
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He certainly would if he ventured further afield than what the ESC has to offer 
Ian, your clutch seemed Ok the other day, I think perhaps the addition of the downpipe etc bring on a certain smoothness to the power delivery which can sometimes feel like a mild loss of power. Skip the Wedgie approach and get it tuned properly
Ian, your clutch seemed Ok the other day, I think perhaps the addition of the downpipe etc bring on a certain smoothness to the power delivery which can sometimes feel like a mild loss of power. Skip the Wedgie approach and get it tuned properly
21 January 2007, 08:11 PM
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He certainly would if he ventured further afield than what the ESC has to offer
Ian, your clutch seemed Ok the other day, I think perhaps the addition of the downpipe etc bring on a certain smoothness to the power delivery which can sometimes feel like a mild loss of power. Skip the Wedgie approach and get it tuned properly
Ian, your clutch seemed Ok the other day, I think perhaps the addition of the downpipe etc bring on a certain smoothness to the power delivery which can sometimes feel like a mild loss of power. Skip the Wedgie approach and get it tuned properly
Can it be tuned when the ECU is unmapable?I drove it today and the clutch seemed fine? I really don't want to spend £500+ on a clutch if I don't need to (yet).
What do you recommend next?
Cheers
21 January 2007, 09:19 PM
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now confused as I thought the 98 was not adustable only old cars or 99's?
spoke to Zak re. this and thought Apexi replacement ecu was only option?
(not a road I want to go down....)
spoke to Zak re. this and thought Apexi replacement ecu was only option?
(not a road I want to go down....)
21 January 2007, 09:27 PM
#24
The new software is coming soon, very soon and will enable classic ecus to be mapped in the same way the newage ones are. Closed loop lambda and live mapping are still retainable.
Out of interest.. why did you not want an APEXi?
21 January 2007, 10:11 PM
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To be honest cost and didn't want to spend £800 to map to cover exhaust decat only....
And I guess I wanted to keep the car reasonably std?
So this info is hot off the press? Zak said nothing Thursday?
And I guess I wanted to keep the car reasonably std?
So this info is hot off the press? Zak said nothing Thursday?
21 January 2007, 10:16 PM
#26
Id imagine Zak isnt saying anything untill he has the software in his hands, he's not the sort of bloke to promise something and then not deliver if you know what i mean.
It should be coming very very soon. I know the APEXi is expensive to cover your mods but you will gain much more than safety alone.
Besides.. whats cheaper.. a fast, properly setup scoob, or a cheap one with a blown engine and a whole heap of agro?
I know its £800 mate, but £800 very very well spent IMO
It should be coming very very soon. I know the APEXi is expensive to cover your mods but you will gain much more than safety alone.
Besides.. whats cheaper.. a fast, properly setup scoob, or a cheap one with a blown engine and a whole heap of agro?
I know its £800 mate, but £800 very very well spent IMO
21 January 2007, 10:28 PM
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Frayz
I know what your saying....
All I've done so far is recommended by Zak. (from my limits)
He said that after I fully decatted, I'd need a Dawes to create smooth boost through gears with no spikes and a knocklink to monitor..
Hence dawes is only set to 1 bar.....
Also I was planning to keep this car for 6 months then move to an STI newage so could save towards that instead os throwing a couple of 2k+ at current car? Apexi, TD05, injectors etc....
I know what your saying....
All I've done so far is recommended by Zak. (from my limits)
He said that after I fully decatted, I'd need a Dawes to create smooth boost through gears with no spikes and a knocklink to monitor..
Hence dawes is only set to 1 bar.....
Also I was planning to keep this car for 6 months then move to an STI newage so could save towards that instead os throwing a couple of 2k+ at current car? Apexi, TD05, injectors etc....
21 January 2007, 10:35 PM
#28
Frayz
I know what your saying....
All I've done so far is recommended by Zak. (from my limits)
He said that after I fully decatted, I'd need a Dawes to create smooth boost through gears with no spikes and a knocklink to monitor..
Hence dawes is only set to 1 bar.....
Also I was planning to keep this car for 6 months then move to an STI newage so could save towards that instead os throwing a couple of 2k+ at current car? Apexi, TD05, injectors etc....
I know what your saying....
All I've done so far is recommended by Zak. (from my limits)
He said that after I fully decatted, I'd need a Dawes to create smooth boost through gears with no spikes and a knocklink to monitor..
Hence dawes is only set to 1 bar.....
Also I was planning to keep this car for 6 months then move to an STI newage so could save towards that instead os throwing a couple of 2k+ at current car? Apexi, TD05, injectors etc....
Fair comments mate.. save the cash for a new one