Wiring problem.... I think....help
#1
Wiring problem.... I think....help
Hello all,
I have a 99, wrx sti type R version 5! It's been dry stored under a sheet for a couple of years as I had other commitments....
Anyway I have got it back on the road and everything was great...until the check engine light came on... Then all of a sudden the car started to intermittently stop starting... It will turn over and fire, but only for a second then dies.. I read the codes which indicated a knock sensor and a pressure sensor, I changed the knock for a new one and reset the ecu and drove about 10 metres, then again the check engine light came on again, but then went off.. the code was 45 anyway after doing a lot of research, I found it to be the map sensor. So I changed this but no difference, in fact the car is now constantly not starting.. Then all of a sudden if I go to it at a different time it will start straight away... Or If I disconnect the maf air flow sensor plug... Then it will start straight away... It has had a new maf as well but still the same...
I have checked all the pipe work, connections, battery's good, full tank of fuel, recently had a walbro fuel pump and full engine rebuild.
I think it's a wiring fault.. Earth/wire breakage? Any ideas or does this sound familiar to anyone..
HELP
I have a 99, wrx sti type R version 5! It's been dry stored under a sheet for a couple of years as I had other commitments....
Anyway I have got it back on the road and everything was great...until the check engine light came on... Then all of a sudden the car started to intermittently stop starting... It will turn over and fire, but only for a second then dies.. I read the codes which indicated a knock sensor and a pressure sensor, I changed the knock for a new one and reset the ecu and drove about 10 metres, then again the check engine light came on again, but then went off.. the code was 45 anyway after doing a lot of research, I found it to be the map sensor. So I changed this but no difference, in fact the car is now constantly not starting.. Then all of a sudden if I go to it at a different time it will start straight away... Or If I disconnect the maf air flow sensor plug... Then it will start straight away... It has had a new maf as well but still the same...
I have checked all the pipe work, connections, battery's good, full tank of fuel, recently had a walbro fuel pump and full engine rebuild.
I think it's a wiring fault.. Earth/wire breakage? Any ideas or does this sound familiar to anyone..
HELP
#3
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It's time to get the multimeter out along with a pin out diagram - have a look at br developments website in archive section for my99 . Start with the map sensor wiring checking it has its live and earth present. Then check the sensor output wire for continuity back to the ecu. Then check the earth and lives feeding the ecu. If still no good start checking for suspect wiring broken where a mouse could have nibbled through or dodgy connections especially the big plugs near the battery.
When it dies is it losing fuel pressure, spark or both?
When it dies is it losing fuel pressure, spark or both?
#4
18 June 1815 - Waterloo
iTrader: (31)
Hello all,
I have a 99, wrx sti type R version 5! It's been dry stored under a sheet for a couple of years as I had other commitments....
Anyway I have got it back on the road and everything was great...until the check engine light came on... Then all of a sudden the car started to intermittently stop starting... It will turn over and fire, but only for a second then dies.. I read the codes which indicated a knock sensor and a pressure sensor, I changed the knock for a new one and reset the ecu and drove about 10 metres, then again the check engine light came on again, but then went off.. the code was 45 anyway after doing a lot of research, I found it to be the map sensor. So I changed this but no difference, in fact the car is now constantly not starting.. Then all of a sudden if I go to it at a different time it will start straight away... Or If I disconnect the maf air flow sensor plug... Then it will start straight away... It has had a new maf as well but still the same...
I have checked all the pipe work, connections, battery's good, full tank of fuel, recently had a walbro fuel pump and full engine rebuild.
I think it's a wiring fault.. Earth/wire breakage? Any ideas or does this sound familiar to anyone..
HELP
I have a 99, wrx sti type R version 5! It's been dry stored under a sheet for a couple of years as I had other commitments....
Anyway I have got it back on the road and everything was great...until the check engine light came on... Then all of a sudden the car started to intermittently stop starting... It will turn over and fire, but only for a second then dies.. I read the codes which indicated a knock sensor and a pressure sensor, I changed the knock for a new one and reset the ecu and drove about 10 metres, then again the check engine light came on again, but then went off.. the code was 45 anyway after doing a lot of research, I found it to be the map sensor. So I changed this but no difference, in fact the car is now constantly not starting.. Then all of a sudden if I go to it at a different time it will start straight away... Or If I disconnect the maf air flow sensor plug... Then it will start straight away... It has had a new maf as well but still the same...
I have checked all the pipe work, connections, battery's good, full tank of fuel, recently had a walbro fuel pump and full engine rebuild.
I think it's a wiring fault.. Earth/wire breakage? Any ideas or does this sound familiar to anyone..
HELP
#5
Thanks guys, Trooper your a star!
Right the car is now running, I don't know what I did, but the check engine light is now off and the car starts on the button every time..
Slight problem tho, it is hunting slightly and stalling at junctions... I have had it plugged into some sort of tester, which indicates the car is running very rich on tickover making it stall as to much fuel is going in (or so I`m told). The car seams to run like a sack of **** to be honest, but a I`m running it in (after a rebuild) I cant open it up to see how it runs really.
Even tho I`ve had the car at 2 different "Subaru specialists" and an auto electrician look at it.... £300 later, no one has solved the problem... Any ideas?
Right the car is now running, I don't know what I did, but the check engine light is now off and the car starts on the button every time..
Slight problem tho, it is hunting slightly and stalling at junctions... I have had it plugged into some sort of tester, which indicates the car is running very rich on tickover making it stall as to much fuel is going in (or so I`m told). The car seams to run like a sack of **** to be honest, but a I`m running it in (after a rebuild) I cant open it up to see how it runs really.
Even tho I`ve had the car at 2 different "Subaru specialists" and an auto electrician look at it.... £300 later, no one has solved the problem... Any ideas?
#6
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You need to find a better specialist if the ones who've ripped you off can't tell you anything other than its rich.
What rebuild have you done and is the engine 100% standard ?
Also I see you've fitted a walbro fuel pump. They can cause a raise in fuel pressure causing it to run rich. It's best to fit a walbro when mapping. Other than that I would start with air leaks and correct pipe routing then basics like setting throttle sensor voltage, cleaning and checking idle valve, checking air flow meter and o2 sensors etc etc.
What rebuild have you done and is the engine 100% standard ?
Also I see you've fitted a walbro fuel pump. They can cause a raise in fuel pressure causing it to run rich. It's best to fit a walbro when mapping. Other than that I would start with air leaks and correct pipe routing then basics like setting throttle sensor voltage, cleaning and checking idle valve, checking air flow meter and o2 sensors etc etc.
#7
Thanks for the reply,
Any suggestions of people that actually know what there doing in the Lancashire area???
The engine has had uprated bearings, pistons and steel rods..(sounds a bit tappety)
The car has a walbro pump and a 3" straight through to back box exhaust, bar that its 100% standard. I do plan on a re-map once I`ve run it in. but want to get it right first..
I have changed map and maf with no difference, don't know how to check the idle control but it makes no difference what so ever when I unplug it when running if that's any sort of indication!!
Thanks again
Any suggestions of people that actually know what there doing in the Lancashire area???
The engine has had uprated bearings, pistons and steel rods..(sounds a bit tappety)
The car has a walbro pump and a 3" straight through to back box exhaust, bar that its 100% standard. I do plan on a re-map once I`ve run it in. but want to get it right first..
I have changed map and maf with no difference, don't know how to check the idle control but it makes no difference what so ever when I unplug it when running if that's any sort of indication!!
Thanks again
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#8
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Mine was doing exactly the same thing after being dry stored for 2 years and also having just been rebuilt. I found a few things:
Cracked vacuum hose at the BOV
BOV Seized
Vacuum hose came off solenoid under manifold (EGR solenoid I believe)
Various hardened parts of vacuum hoses from sitting.
Knock sensor cracked
Mine wouldn't idle, stalled at lights etc. started fine when cold and idled too but once warm it wouldn't run at all.
After I fixed all of the above I had to reset the ECU, after that the car was like new! I had been swapping MAF's etc too and was getting nowhere. I'd be looking for vacuum leaks and definitely resetting the ECU.
Cracked vacuum hose at the BOV
BOV Seized
Vacuum hose came off solenoid under manifold (EGR solenoid I believe)
Various hardened parts of vacuum hoses from sitting.
Knock sensor cracked
Mine wouldn't idle, stalled at lights etc. started fine when cold and idled too but once warm it wouldn't run at all.
After I fixed all of the above I had to reset the ECU, after that the car was like new! I had been swapping MAF's etc too and was getting nowhere. I'd be looking for vacuum leaks and definitely resetting the ECU.
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