burn

Hi all, been looking on here for a while but finally bought a car, and that has issues.

It's 2006 wagon wrx ppp that's done quite a few miles. Bought it as spares or repairs but when the engine is running it sounds sweet.

Problems are starts, runs for probably 30 seconds then just cuts out. It cranks but won't start.

Engine management light is on with codes

P0410 - secondary air injection system fault
P1410 - secondary air injection system valve stuck open?
P1518 - starter switch circuit low input
P2432 - secondary air injection system low voltage?

Now the car arrived with a flat battery and a loose earth terminal, could that explain p1518?

I've read a few places about blanking plates for the sas, anyone done them?

But out of all of it I can't understand why it runs for say 30 seconds, cuts out and won't restart until fully cold.

At the moment I have the intercooler off and battery on charge. Going to clean the throttle body out as it's looking dirty. Do these have a reset procedure for when the battery has been off to reset trims and idle control etc? I know some vag stuff does.

Any help is appreciated.

Jonnys3

Sounds to me like the secondary air pump is gubbed. Common fault on Hawkeyes. Couple of options, get it removed and mapped out, get it rebuilt, or buy a replacement from a breakers.

burn

Would that cause all the issues it has? Had planned on getting the blanking plates and then finding a tuner to turn it off but thought I'd still be left with it cutting out.

Uncle Creepy

It's taken you 10 years to find a car? That's some serious long-time lurking! Nobody could ever accuse you of making a rash purchase, could they!?

burn

No I don't like to waste money lol.

Well I had joint ownership of a classic wagon back then, this is the first that's all mine.

burn

Ok maybe getting somewhere. Had throttle body off for a clean out and found a breather going into the manifold that was undone, goes into a one way valve. Took that off for a clean as it was stuck open, all back together with a charged battery and followed the hard reset procedure.

Car ran for just over 40 seconds and cut out. Went to start it again and usually it will just crank, put ignition on and pressed the unlock button and it ran until the fans kicked in. But the cut out. Same again with the button and has been fine, so far.

Could I have an issue with the immobiliser?

But one of the times I went to start it again it sounded like the fuel pump had dragged a little air on priming it.

Any thoughts?

burn

Reviving this as there's no change.

Changed the plugs, gave the earths a clean, removed the secondary air system, then deleted the codes:
P1410 - secondary air injection system valve stuck open?
P2432 - secondary air injection system low voltage?
P2433 - Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow/Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1

Still having the same issue with it only running for 20 seconds or so then cutting out. But on the last occasion it took a good 10-15 seconds of cranking before it would fire, ran for 20 seconds or so then wouldn't restart. And now no codes.

burn

Have I posted in the wrong section? lol. Don't think I've managed to offend anyone yet lol.

From the research I've done likely suspects are fuel pump, crank sensor? But I'll check all the fuses again, and pull the fuel pipe off and gauge the flow.

Very slow process this, I get one opportunity every few weeks to look at the car, driving me nuts sat there :-(

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

what happens if you run a direct power feed to the fuel pump instead of using the internal wiring that runs through the alarm?

burn

I've not tried that yet so that will be my next step.

Thanks

burn

Still not tried a direct feed to the pump but pulled the pipe off of the rail and fuel fires out whilst priming. So pulled a coil off, plug was wet. Put the coil and Earth to ground, no spark.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

if it's not sparking then it could well point to the immobiliser at fault - you might have to get the circuit tester out and see if there is signal coming out of the ecu or not. Do you get a flashing key on the dash or anything?

burn

When I unlock the car I get the led lit up on the dash and the key flashing, put the key in and put ignition on and the led goes out and the key stops flashing on the clocks. As soon as I pull the key out the key light starts flashing.

Is the ecu in the same place as the classics?

Managed to grab 5 minutes on it today, tested the crank sensor and its within tolerance, couldn't check it cranking as I was on my own. So put the alternator back on and started cleaning up the earths and adding a few more earth leads.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

what happens if you unplug the cam sensor and try to start? yes ECU lives in the passenger footwell behind the carpets

burn

Bit of an update. Had to give in and get an auto electrician to have a look. He's still doing his tests but it is pointing towards a faulty ecu.

burn

Car is back and running. He could physically see something had burnt out on the ecu, and had been a gradual issue. He managed to save the ecu and repair it.

Happy days