2003 WRX Remap Advice
#1
2003 WRX Remap Advice
Hi All
I've got a 53 plate blobeye and I'm thinking of getting a ecu remap for a bit more bhp and torque , I've already got a afterburner vortex back box and a scorpion de-cat'd centre section on and Im just waiting for a green air filter panel to arrive and looking at different threads , this is all I require to add to the car before a stage 1 remap ,
Some people say I need to change the fuel pump and others say for the bhp gain which would only be about 40-50 the standard one is still ok .
The other question is according to Andrew Carr's web page , I need to have a TGV deleted , other remapping sites and other threads have no mention of this TGV ( tumble generating valve ) delete , is this a must or not .
Thanks for any help .
I've got a 53 plate blobeye and I'm thinking of getting a ecu remap for a bit more bhp and torque , I've already got a afterburner vortex back box and a scorpion de-cat'd centre section on and Im just waiting for a green air filter panel to arrive and looking at different threads , this is all I require to add to the car before a stage 1 remap ,
Some people say I need to change the fuel pump and others say for the bhp gain which would only be about 40-50 the standard one is still ok .
The other question is according to Andrew Carr's web page , I need to have a TGV deleted , other remapping sites and other threads have no mention of this TGV ( tumble generating valve ) delete , is this a must or not .
Thanks for any help .
#2
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You don't have to do the tgv delete but if you do its one less thing to go wrong, quickest way is to buy an sti inlet manifold and new gasket.
If it were me then I would put a new pump in to be on the safe side, it's not a massive expense.
Don't forget the ngkpfr7b plugs
If it were me then I would put a new pump in to be on the safe side, it's not a massive expense.
Don't forget the ngkpfr7b plugs
#3
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The TGV delete is only for the carrberry rom software. I've read into the TGV delete and it's not worth the hassle unless your going for big power.
Andrew does use other software
A new fuel pump is not a lot of money and worth it to fit before map than map and find out the standard pump is on its way out.
Andrew does use other software
A new fuel pump is not a lot of money and worth it to fit before map than map and find out the standard pump is on its way out.
#4
I,m not going for big power just to around the 260-280 mark , got chewed up and spat out by a BMW recently and was a bit p'd off that he could keep up pretty easily and did me on late braking until he went passed and I looked at the back to see M335i on it , look up the spec while I was sat behind him at lights with my tail between my legs and it's got about 310 bhp standard so felt a bit better then but might scare him next time with a remap .
Found this on a web site saying fuel pump is advisable but not essential, plug upgrade comes if I'm going for 300+
Again, a common question that I get asked about what should be done and what shouldn’t etc so I will aim to do these for each significant model type.
Firstly, a 2.0 litre WRX….
In std form they are 220bhp give or take and have boost at about 0.95 bar. The boost profile in the std map is pretty tame and doesnt come in til 3500rpm assuming the car is std.
so… choices
1. Keep the car std but just remap for more oomph and better fuel economy.
A full custom remap will bring boost in much earlier and hold higher boost levels for longer but the map will be geared to running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically) as it wont be possible to push too much boost with all 3 cats in place. Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and a backbox are fitted at this stage.
This would get the car to about 250-260bhp
2. Sports cat in downpipe – remove centre cat
A full custom remap will bring boost in much earlier due to the lower back pressure and hold much higher boost levels. The remap will also aim to get it running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically).
Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and probably a 3 port solenoid are fitted at this stage (on top of the sports cat downpipe and exhaust system).
This would get the car to about 270bhp but a huge boost in torque figures in the mid range.
3. Fully Decat Exhaust
The low back pressure from removing all the cats is now the equivalent of the turbo running around the garden naked shouting “look at me I’m free”. A remap is needed to bring it under control and stop overboosting. The remap will bring boost in as smooth as possible and most likely get full boost at around 2700 rpm and hold higher boost right through the rev range. The remap will also aim to get it running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically).
Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and probably a 3 port solenoid are fitted at this stage (on top of the decat downpipe and exhaust system).
This would get the car to about 280-290bhp but a huge boost in torque figures in the mid range and transform the way the car drives on the road.
A walbro 255 fuel pump is advisable but not 100% essential.
4. Getting to over 300bhp
A lot of people want to do this, it is a nice bhp figure for the pub afterall. So .. how ? The std TD04 turbo will not do it unless you are on a dyno that reads very optimistically. It will need a turbo off its bigger brother STi version.
There are many many choices of turbo for this VF30, VF34, VF35, VF43, VF48, TD05 16G etc etc but all of these will need a couple of other changes to the car before hitting the mark safely.
– STi Injectors – 550cc (Pinks)
– Walbro 255 pump
– worth changing the uppipe for a decat version
– probably an STi TMIC although the WRX will suffice.
It is also advisable to change to NGK PFR7B spark plugs.
There is a lot of info around about the different turbos and what they are capable of – the VF35 makes the best upgrade in my opinion at the moment and should hit a nice safe 320-330bhp. This is pretty much an ideal level for the WRX keeping it within the capabilities of the engine, gearbox and clutch.
Some other info:
– a vent to atmosphere dump valve will not improve the performance but if you must fit one for the sound then stick to a good make – forge have always been good from what I have seen. (Baileys are less so)
– a FMIC is not needed at this stage and tbh is always the wrong mod to do on a WRX.
– an induction kit will most likely not improve performance as the std airbox is very good. If you do want more induction noise then go for a cold air induction kit such as the K&N typhoon where the filter is located away from engine bay heat.
Anyway … hope that is useful.
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Found this on a web site saying fuel pump is advisable but not essential, plug upgrade comes if I'm going for 300+
Again, a common question that I get asked about what should be done and what shouldn’t etc so I will aim to do these for each significant model type.
Firstly, a 2.0 litre WRX….
In std form they are 220bhp give or take and have boost at about 0.95 bar. The boost profile in the std map is pretty tame and doesnt come in til 3500rpm assuming the car is std.
so… choices
1. Keep the car std but just remap for more oomph and better fuel economy.
A full custom remap will bring boost in much earlier and hold higher boost levels for longer but the map will be geared to running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically) as it wont be possible to push too much boost with all 3 cats in place. Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and a backbox are fitted at this stage.
This would get the car to about 250-260bhp
2. Sports cat in downpipe – remove centre cat
A full custom remap will bring boost in much earlier due to the lower back pressure and hold much higher boost levels. The remap will also aim to get it running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically).
Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and probably a 3 port solenoid are fitted at this stage (on top of the sports cat downpipe and exhaust system).
This would get the car to about 270bhp but a huge boost in torque figures in the mid range.
3. Fully Decat Exhaust
The low back pressure from removing all the cats is now the equivalent of the turbo running around the garden naked shouting “look at me I’m free”. A remap is needed to bring it under control and stop overboosting. The remap will bring boost in as smooth as possible and most likely get full boost at around 2700 rpm and hold higher boost right through the rev range. The remap will also aim to get it running much more efficiently ( which is also more economically).
Typically a Green/K&N/Cosworth air filter and probably a 3 port solenoid are fitted at this stage (on top of the decat downpipe and exhaust system).
This would get the car to about 280-290bhp but a huge boost in torque figures in the mid range and transform the way the car drives on the road.
A walbro 255 fuel pump is advisable but not 100% essential.
4. Getting to over 300bhp
A lot of people want to do this, it is a nice bhp figure for the pub afterall. So .. how ? The std TD04 turbo will not do it unless you are on a dyno that reads very optimistically. It will need a turbo off its bigger brother STi version.
There are many many choices of turbo for this VF30, VF34, VF35, VF43, VF48, TD05 16G etc etc but all of these will need a couple of other changes to the car before hitting the mark safely.
– STi Injectors – 550cc (Pinks)
– Walbro 255 pump
– worth changing the uppipe for a decat version
– probably an STi TMIC although the WRX will suffice.
It is also advisable to change to NGK PFR7B spark plugs.
There is a lot of info around about the different turbos and what they are capable of – the VF35 makes the best upgrade in my opinion at the moment and should hit a nice safe 320-330bhp. This is pretty much an ideal level for the WRX keeping it within the capabilities of the engine, gearbox and clutch.
Some other info:
– a vent to atmosphere dump valve will not improve the performance but if you must fit one for the sound then stick to a good make – forge have always been good from what I have seen. (Baileys are less so)
– a FMIC is not needed at this stage and tbh is always the wrong mod to do on a WRX.
– an induction kit will most likely not improve performance as the std airbox is very good. If you do want more induction noise then go for a cold air induction kit such as the K&N typhoon where the filter is located away from engine bay heat.
Anyway … hope that is useful.
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#5
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It's all down to how well your fuel pumps working if it's 12 years old n gone round the block a few times it'll struggle to keep up if it's old used n abused it might not it might go really well. Like I say there cheap enough.
If your chosen mapper finds that your pump can't keep up n reigns it in to compensate. And you get hungry for more it'll cost you'll the pump, and a map tweak. For how cheap they are n how easy to fit it'd be worth it just for peace of mind.
If your chosen mapper finds that your pump can't keep up n reigns it in to compensate. And you get hungry for more it'll cost you'll the pump, and a map tweak. For how cheap they are n how easy to fit it'd be worth it just for peace of mind.
#6
It's all down to how well your fuel pumps working if it's 12 years old n gone round the block a few times it'll struggle to keep up if it's old used n abused it might not it might go really well. Like I say there cheap enough. If your chosen mapper finds that your pump can't keep up n reigns it in to compensate. And you get hungry for more it'll cost you'll the pump, and a map tweak. For how cheap they are n how easy to fit it'd be worth it just for peace of mind.
#7
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http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/help.htm
That's one I've used previously
http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_180&products_id=1292
This the pump you want a bit of googling and you might find cheaper
That's one I've used previously
http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_180&products_id=1292
This the pump you want a bit of googling and you might find cheaper
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#8
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Put the pump in mate, as said above - it isn't worth taking the chance on a tired original fuel pump.
I have a 2003 WRX, and mine has recently been mapped to 275bhp. I have full turbo back 2.5" exhaust with prodrive sports cat downpipe, decat STI up-pipe (standard headers though) , panel air filter, PFR7B plugs, walbro 255 pump, 3 port boost solenoid. Still on the original TD04. Drives awesome, very little lag. Spools up nice and fast!
^ Just for comparison purposes.
I have a 2003 WRX, and mine has recently been mapped to 275bhp. I have full turbo back 2.5" exhaust with prodrive sports cat downpipe, decat STI up-pipe (standard headers though) , panel air filter, PFR7B plugs, walbro 255 pump, 3 port boost solenoid. Still on the original TD04. Drives awesome, very little lag. Spools up nice and fast!
^ Just for comparison purposes.
#10
Thanks for all the advice guys , looked at a few videos on changing the pump and it's not for me so will get a price for it to be done when I get the service done and cambelt changed in a couple of months .
#12
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It's worth changing the standard WRX up-pipe to an STi one while your at it.
You don't need to change the fuel pump for the power levels your aiming for.
My WRX made around 287BHP with these mods:-
https://www.scoobynet.com/garage/200...man%20Dog.html
This will also give you an idea of what's required for the different stages.:-
http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58901.html
You don't need to change the fuel pump for the power levels your aiming for.
My WRX made around 287BHP with these mods:-
https://www.scoobynet.com/garage/200...man%20Dog.html
This will also give you an idea of what's required for the different stages.:-
http://www.andyforrestperformance.co.uk/58901.html
#13
Scooby Regular
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i believe the standard pump is only 130 lph - you should be looking at a 255 or higher pump to ensure you have enough juice when running higher than stock boost.
I know plenty of people don't bother with it or say it's not essential but really it's a good safety measure same as the uppipe decat and making sure you use a quality fuel. It should be number one on your list along with a boost gauge.
Technopug - no need to adjust the map for the fuel pump, the fuel pressure remains the same it's just the ability to deliver fuel under higher than standard boost which is improved.
I know plenty of people don't bother with it or say it's not essential but really it's a good safety measure same as the uppipe decat and making sure you use a quality fuel. It should be number one on your list along with a boost gauge.
Technopug - no need to adjust the map for the fuel pump, the fuel pressure remains the same it's just the ability to deliver fuel under higher than standard boost which is improved.
#14
I have a 2004 Blob WRX. It was completely standard. I got a second hand WR Sport back box, Piper Cross panel filter, Walbro and it made 272bhp at SRR by Duncan from RaceDynamix Very pleased.
My Subaru specialise mechanic (Surrey Subaru Specialists) recommended upgrading the fuel pump and I'm not about to question his expertise, so it was a no brainer as far as I was concerned
My Subaru specialise mechanic (Surrey Subaru Specialists) recommended upgrading the fuel pump and I'm not about to question his expertise, so it was a no brainer as far as I was concerned
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