Manford

Can someone check through my log file, and see if there are any issues that jump out at you?

I can send it to you? I think there are a few readings that dont seem right, or are out of the range I would expect but want to know want someone who knows what they are on about to have a look.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

post it up then lets have a look (you can stick it on google docs and make it public) or you can upload it to www.datazap.me (sign up for a free account) and share the link

pete

Manford

Will do, was wondering how to do it.

http://www.datazap.me/u/manford/log-23215?log=0&data=17

I think my air/fuel ratio is off at high rpm, but that mite be me................

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

are you trying to read your AFR from the stock sensor? If so I hope you moved it to the downpipe as it's not accurate under boost when installed in the headers.

Also - you're logging too many things. Clear your log parameters and add them again, might want to go with manifold relative pressure instead of absolute pressure too (unless your on speed density?)


Your pulling some timing at high RPM (around 6000 or so) - maybe you have crap fuel?


Looking at that log - your only hitting around 7-10psi, wastegate pressure. Is your BCS working?

Given all the above, I would say get your head under the bonnet and look for maybe a disconnected vac line somewhere.


Also try logging some more useful info:
Engine Load
Engine SPeed
Feedback Knock Correciton
Fine Learning Knock Correction
Knock Correction Advance (degrees)
Ignition Total Timing
Manifold Relative Pressure Direct
Mass Airflow (g/s)
Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle
Throttle Opening Angle
Your wideband AFR will be needed as well, unless you've moved the stock sensor in which case you can get a rough reading from it by adding:
A/F Correction #1 (%)
A/F Sensor #1 (AFR)


pete

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

Also it helps if you can post a learning view screenshot (show LTV button in romraider). Save it as an image and share it with us.

Manford

Glad there is something obviously not quite right,well not overly glad but at least im not nuts!

Car is 100% standard, so sensor is in the headers at present, can I just swap it into the downpipe?

Whats the easiest way to prove the BCS is working?

Only run the car on bp ultimate, so hopefully isn't fuel. Had a new fuel filter few months back.

I will log just those parameters and upload another file.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

Yes you can just have it moved - though you'll need to have someone put a bung in the downpipe for it or switch to an aftermarket downpipe, many of them have the bung already in place.


Yes - fire another log up. Don't log tons of data though keep it consistent, start your log around 2000rpm cruising, then slam your foot to the floor as quick as you can. Hold it there until around 6000rpm and your done - let off your foot completely then stop the log.

But - before you go horsing the crap out of your car, do poke your head under the bonnet and check the vac lines are all hooked up OK. Do also check the LTV data and post it up as you don't need to go anywhere for that.

sivo

iTrader: (30)

Try changing to v power, I've never had a Subaru that ran well on bp ultimate.

Siv

Manford

Cool, il check it over at lunch and grab the LTV data.

How can I check the BCS?

I cant see "Feedback Knock Correction" in the list of options on Romraider?

Is there that much difference between ultimate and v power?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

for the BCS - unbolt it from the car and get a spare length of wire. touch the wire to the battery terminal and touch the other ends to the BCS terminals - should hear a definite click that it's working. No click - not working, soft flumpy sound means its dying or gummed up with junk.

Your datalogging cable, is it an openport - can you flash with it? Or just for logging ?

Manford

No its just a vag-com cable, I want an openport one but cant justify 200quid on one, i keep looking out for second hand ones.

Just off to have a look at the car, will update shortly........

Manford

Just had a quick look around, it started lashing it down, and I cant see anything obviously split/damage or missing. followed the lines off the turbo, to the bcs, inlet manifold. Cant follow the one that comes off the recirc valve as it goes off under the tmic.





I will play with the bcs later.

Could it be the inlet pipe is split/damaged? I'm sure i've read they are prone to dying with age?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

okay - IAM = 0 means your car has a serious serious problem mr. When the IAM drops that low the car disables the BCS - thats why you have wastegate only boost.

Your airflow corrections aren't bad which suggests maybe it's not a leak, but something is setting off your knock sensor that is either knock or something that sounds like knock. Do you have any strange noises coming from the car/engine when driving?

Also it says there DTC reader disabled by user, try running it again with the tickbox for DTC ticked and see if any temporary or memorized codes pop up.

Until you can find out what's up, don't be driving on boost. You can see the car is still pulling 5 degrees of timing - even with the IAM reduced to nothing that's a massive amount of timing to be pulling. Your car is very badly sick mr - please get it checked out.



Also openports aren't 200 quid - more like 130 :
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=53

Manford

Oh, thats good news :-(

No car seems ok, just wasn't pulling anything like as hard as i thought it should.

Should have uploaded second pic, i restarted and it listed no codes, I have regually checked this and it has never logged a code since I have had the car.

Is there anything else I can check to see if I can narrow down the issue? Is it worth resetting the ecu and seeing if the same figures come back?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

you can reset the ECU which will put your IAM back at a higher value - but please be very careful if there is a problem you'll only make it worse trying to force power out of it.

definitely no strange noises when driving or trying to boost - have you been doing any work under the bonnet or maybe anything that could've loosed something?

Check out the knock sensor as well just to make sure its OK and not cracked.

Manford

Not recently, i swapped the y pipe before xmas, but the car was running noticably better afterwards. No strange noises I can think of, will drive home with window open later to check. What kinda noises you expecting?

Where is the knock sensor? is it easy to get too?

I just want to reset it to see if it goes back to the same state/figures, not too rag it and kill it.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

here - see your airflow correction ranges (a/f learning#1) you have 4 boxes. Your third one has a score of 8.6 instead of being low like the rest of them - could be a vac leak somewhere maybe off the manifold that's opening up under boost and messing with you.

explore - examine - inspect!

Manford

Il reset the ecu, drive home, its only a few miles, recheck and see whats going on.

Once home il remove the tmic and check the knock senosor and the hoses underneath.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

The knock sensor is pretty much under the intake manifold but you should be able to peek at it.
http://www.seccs.org/tech/2002%20WRX...C%20Engine.pdf

page 9 - number "2".

Manford

Cool, il check before I go.

Once the ecu has been reset I would expect zeros in all the boxs? and then once Ive started the car, driven home it will repopulate? Just checking im on the right wave length........

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

yup zero in the knock correction advance - ideally the IAM working its way up to 16 (you can log it in romraider realtime) along with engine load (calculated) g/s.

airflow corrections will adjust over time - based on how much driving/cruising you do in those regions.

The airflow regions approximately fall into these categories:
group A is regular idle
group B is high idle (warmup and such)
group C is light/mid throttle cruising
group D is bewwwwwwwwwwwst

Normally anything in the region of + or - 5 is OK, but in your case that group C value is looking very strange and sorry for itself. Normally a leak at that amount of airflow is going to be something that's allowing in extra unmetered air on vacume and boost. Maybe the turbo intake has split underneath? Give the whole area a spray with carb cleaner/maf cleaner and see if the engine note changes.

Manford

LTV after drive home.



I took a quick log, just for reference, its with the others. As you can see I took it easy.

From what I understand, IAM 16 is good?

So hopefully, no mad panic, but a leak somewhere in the intake/vacuum path. could it be y pipe/intercooler? or do these errors come from earlier in the air intake?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

im guessing the drive home didn't see much boost so i would expect the IAM to climb to 16 (the correct number!) without too much hassle.

You might find if you go horsing it the IAM will drop down again though due to whatever is messing it up.

I see the 10.00 - 49.99 airflow range is still quite high so start chasing an air leak and let us know how you get on.

Manford

Max rpm 3254,max throttle 49% Neva guna see much boost. I wanted to make sure on an easy run no major errors were flagging up.

Yeah I noticed that. Could it be the y pipe I fitted? If that was leaking/not fitted correctly would that give me this error?

Il keep an eye on the IAM and take regular logs.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

the "error" is because there is extra air in the system that the MAF didn't read. So yeah that could happen in lots of places - more head under bonnet - less googling for stuph!

Manford

Don't worry not going to swap any bits until I know whats causing the issue, and then get the car running right.

Fingers crossed no rain at lunch and I can have a proper poke around, bit difficult on th drive with a torch after work.

Can I remake the vacuum pipes to be sure its not them? presumably people have made there own/swapped them out? or am i best going to Subrau?

Infected by sti

iTrader: (6)

You can swap them out with silicone ones or use oe vac lines.

Just remember to replace any restrictor pills you come across in the vacuum lines the same way they came out and you will be fine.

Manford

Ok, had a good poke around a lunch and couldn't at first see anything wrong, but remembered I had removed the recirc valve when I took off the tmic.
Looking at the face of the valve I can see a tarnished section, and theres a white line on the gasket, so I cleaned it all up and refitted it. reset the ecu and went for a drive....



I'm assuming the figure would never be 0? Ill run it for a few days and check again, but fingers crossed I have found my leak.

Il order a new gasket anyway.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

looks a lot healthier anyway - might be it just hasn't spent enough time idling to work on a long term correction in the first group. As you say monitor every other day and see if it starts heading to a large value.

Looks like you've seen a little bit of boost there as well. -3 degrees timing isn't the end of the world but consider switching to a better fuel supply if you can.

Manford

Is the -3 definately caused by fuel? Il run the tank down low and then try v power

I did 5miles yesterday and the third group went straight back to 8-10%, I did a similar length trip at lunch, and tickled it a little and the figure is 3.8 % so im hoping its better.

Would the figures ever stay at zero? What do yours sit at?

I'm still tempted to swap the vacuum hoses out, new pipes and clean connections can never be a bad thing.