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CHEEPEST WAY TO 300BHP

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Old 15 May 2002, 04:50 PM
  #1  
jasonp
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your thoughts all..

standard 94wrx NO MODS YET!!

so how do i get from 240BHP to 300+BHP as cheeply as possible

mod 1 exhaust
mod 2 ???
mod 3 ???

cheers

j
Old 15 May 2002, 04:56 PM
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Vinesh
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Cheapish:

induction kit
HKS boost controller
Dawes

More Expensive way:

Re-build? with uprated components
Bigger Turbo
NOS
Old 15 May 2002, 05:05 PM
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jasonp
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Question

what is dawes???
Old 15 May 2002, 05:22 PM
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Jay m A
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The cheapest way is

Exhaust
induction
Dawes
Fuel cut lifter
Octane booster.

Then I'd get alot of guages to monitor everything, like knocklink, AFR meter, boost gauge, since with this route you will be losing quite a few safety features.

The Dawes is manual boost controller.
Old 15 May 2002, 07:10 PM
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mutant_matt
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To get to 300 from your car, you are likely to need a full exhaust (possibly including headers/up-pipe), Induction kit, remapped ECU, possibly different turbo, probably uprated Intercooler (ideally front mount), possibly bigger injectors......

Matt
Old 15 May 2002, 07:56 PM
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Katana
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I've got a fuel cut lifter from someone a few days ago. I'm having problems locating which wire to cut and put the FCD between in. Does anyone knows? It was an MRT FCD and the guy removed it from his 200sx. He says that I should use my MAF but I read somewhere that its supposed to be placed in the MAP sensor.

Can anyone help me? I need it before Saturday.

edit ~ If you can find me the ECU pinouts for an MY93, I'd be extremely grateful.

[Edited by Katana - 5/15/2002 8:16:52 PM]
Old 15 May 2002, 09:50 PM
  #7  
Homer Simpson
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Exclamation

Not really a cheap way for getting 300 bhp from your car, without the risk of it going bang!!

You'd be better off doing it properly, rather than scratching your head on where to find the cash for a rebuild!

Trending Topics

Old 16 May 2002, 12:42 AM
  #8  
tweenierob
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I second katana, anyone have a picture of the my93 pinouts on the ecu??
Rob
Old 16 May 2002, 09:50 AM
  #9  
RICH WILD
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Hi,

I got 320bhp from a 96 UK (208bhp standard)on standard ECU, standard turbo and standard internals and injectors and now I'm running even more due to higher boost and HKS manifold.

Your WRX should have the TD05 turbo which is huge and very strong. I run mine at 1.5 bar and have done for six months and I know people who've done that for longer and at more boost, so no need to change that.

First thing is get the thing breathing sorted. Full decat and induction kit.

Then sort out your fuelling, run Octane booster (especially on a WRX which is mapped for 100 RON remember) I use Optimax and 100ml NF per tankful. You can either fit a proper fuel controller (expensive) or do what I did and fit a HKS AFR for around £100 which allows you to tweak the mixture a bit.

Then, as Jay m A says, you need to monitor the mixture. I use an AFR meter (same as Lambda link) and an Exhaust gas temp gauge (but they are about £300 - excellent though).

If you run too lean on boost your engine temp will be too high and you'll melt the pistons. So you need to keep things nice and rich, but not too rich.

Once you are able to monitor things, THEN think about upping boost either with a bleed valve (which I didn't like as you have to keep adjusting it) or an Electronic boost controller such as HKS. Never used a Dawes but know of some people with good results from them. Spen555 has one on a UK MY00 and is around 290bhp.

As you aise the boost you'll get to the fuel cut which is about 1.15bar on yours, I think. Fit an FCD for about £90 and as long as you are still running rich you can up the boost beyond this point.

A few other choice mods such as a decent Dumpvalve to handle the boost and a set of lightened pulleys and you should EASILY crack 300.

Having said all this though, all that extra power will stress your other components such as clutch, brakes and gearbox and so it may not end up being cheap after all. I'd seriously consider uprating your brakes and suspension FIRST. This in itself will make the car faster on the road and will mean that when you do get the power, you'll be able to control it!!

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Rich
Old 16 May 2002, 12:59 PM
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mutant_matt
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Rich,

Are you running all that on the OE TMIC???

Matt
Old 16 May 2002, 01:17 PM
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MorayMackenzie
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Thumbs down

Rich Wild,

Are you working undercover for an engine rebuilding operation somewhere? The "information" in your above post could easily lead to an engine failure.

Moray
bbs.22b.com
Old 16 May 2002, 03:15 PM
  #12  
RICH WILD
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Matt,

yes mate, OE top mount soon to be watersprayed.

Moray,

No I'm not. Just saying what I've done that's all. And I haven't needed an engine rebuild. So my "information" was fine for me. I'm hope we are all big enough to decide the risks we take. What I said above is potentially risky if someone doesn't carefully monitor what they are doing mixture-wise - sure. But as long as you are careful, why not? There's not just me running big power on standard internals out there you know!

We haven't all got pots of dosh to spend on ECUS and uprated internals, so why can't we have a bit of cheap fun? There's lots of people on here with Dawes devices getting good figures for cheap money and all the usual killjoys went mad at first saying they were dangerous.

So is crossing the road, but we take precautions, we don't just avoid roads altogether.

What particularly do you think is dangerous? (honest question) as long as you are sensible and keep the fuelling etc. right what is the problem? Sure, cranking boost up ***** nilly is daft, but I didn't say that.
Maybe you know something I don't, if so, please elaborate.

All my comments are just based on my own experience.

I wish people would be a bit more constructive with their criticism on here instead of just cutting things dead.

Cheers

Rich
Old 16 May 2002, 03:26 PM
  #13  
Katana
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But at the end of the day, does anyone knows the pinouts? I'm just paranoid of cutting the wrong wire. There's a few yellow with black stripes wires heading into the ECU. All of them can't be the MAP signal can it? All I want to do is take it 0.5 past the fuel cut, honest.
Old 16 May 2002, 10:04 PM
  #14  
Cosie Convert
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Nice one Rich I've also noticed it's easy to upset those who have spent the 'big bucks' for mundane return

Seeing through all the bull re scooby tuning is an art in itself. Keep up the good work mate

Andy
Old 16 May 2002, 10:22 PM
  #15  
Blue
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Andy Tang did have a UK car on std internals running a reliable 350 bhp but he cheated - he had a FMIC

RichW - remember the golden rule - thrash it - when it breaks mend it - then thrash it some more
Old 17 May 2002, 01:03 PM
  #16  
jasonp
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cheers all

so 300+ aint really cheep or it can be but there are possible side affect s that could end up costin a little more.

Rich your post was taken as posted your experience! i think your right about the turbo in mine they changed it around 96. So other good stuff as well will just have to see how wreckless i feel with everything else and how far I go!!!

I'll be getting the exhaust done next month so that will be a start

thanks all
Old 17 May 2002, 01:48 PM
  #17  
RICH WILD
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Thanks everyone.

CC, I couldn't agree more! Cheers

Nice to know I'm not the only power nutter.

Jasonp,

I spent about £1500 to get my 320bhp, others may spend more to get the same power and it may be a lot safer, but we ain't all millionares are we? I accept the risks and as Blue rightly says, it breaks, you fix it. It's a good excuse to uprate the internals isn't it?

Good luck anyway. Hope you get 300+ but DO be sensible

Cheers

Rich
Old 17 May 2002, 02:38 PM
  #18  
Adam M
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Rich,

I am sorry but what you wrote is an instruction set to getting cheap power, not a rendition of what you did.

You are handing out advice, without clearly stating teh safety precautions you have to take to make sure its okay.

You are making out that this can all be done easily, and since people will read what they want to see, you are giving people the go ahead to do this.

Fitting a bleed valve is safe IF you know what you are doing. Your post doesnt ensure that people know how to read te lambda sensor you tell them to fit, nor does it account for the fact that they mis read at a high temperature!

what you have said can be done safely, but you have not given the full picture. You have the knowledge to exercise these things safely but others dont.

I dont think its fair to assume everyone knows what they are doing, you havent even outlined the risks so that people know it isnt plug and pray but more plug and pray.

Dont think its fair to attack moray when all he is doing is placing a little doubt in the minds of people who maybe dont understand as well as you do.

It is better to err on the side of caution, especially if you dont know the dangers.
Old 17 May 2002, 03:00 PM
  #19  
Dizzy
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Are you working undercover for an engine rebuilding operation somewhere? The "information" in your above post could easily lead to an engine failure.
Adam,
you are right to add more caution to Rich's post but Moray was hardly being helpfull or constructive was he? Rich was giving his personal advice on what he has done to achieve what the guy was asking for. He even states you should monitor fueling and inlet temps v carefully. Why didn't Moray just emphersise the fact about engines can let go if you dont monitor xy or uprate z rather than some snide quip. I run the same MY car as Rich and always watch his posts as I'm interested how hes getting on as I'm starting to mod my car (granted I may not go for 1.5 bar though ). We are all responsible adults that must always take whats posted here carefully or we'd always take it to a garage and fork out massive $$$. I know every time I chop my car I check and double check the consiquencis.

soz about ranting but its friday
Old 17 May 2002, 04:15 PM
  #20  
Adam M
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understood completely.

i think that is more morays dry sense of humour, and he made a snide ( I like to say schnide) comment to make the point in a light hearted kind of way.

I suppose I know moray better than most here so can appreciate the spirit in which his post was written. Either way, I have made the points that he perhaps chose not to say, so all is well.

One final thing I will say, is I dont like to assumke that people have a modicum of common sense, adn I certainly dont like assuming that people know they are taking their own risks. its all very well saying, he took the risk and so he has to pay out, I would rather each person with a broken engine is armed with all the info they can get in the first place to avoid it happening at all. regardless of who made the final call.

Fact is, I know how to help as I learned it from others who were kind enough to pass on what they have learned (star wars appreciation society - application forms here!). I got this knowledge for free, and it doesnt hurt me to pass it on for free. If it saves someone some money on the long run I will be even happier.
Old 17 May 2002, 04:20 PM
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Dizzy
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fair enough. I dont own a 22B so I dont go to your site that much

I suppose I assume ppl have some common sence mind you after looking at a scooby engine that had let go its made me think twice about upping the power

(also nice to see the difference between closed and open deck blocks )
Old 17 May 2002, 04:43 PM
  #22  
Adam M
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Lol,

my site?

hardly.

I wish people would understand that it is not meant for 22B owners solely. There are more non 22B owners than there are owners.

why would it have a cosworth etc section?

22B.com happens to be frequented by 22B owners, but it was never a site for 22B owners. It is meant more as a technical board, especially as the search facility remains active.

I know I get really tired of a lot of repeated threads on this board, that the search could save.

I think it would even be worthwile to have the search on here directly linked the the 22B search facility.

Old 17 May 2002, 04:54 PM
  #23  
Dizzy
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ok ok I meant "your board" as the one you most frequent and the search is a major pain in the **** :/

btw I'm just jelous I saw a 22b for 30K all I need now is 28K
Old 17 May 2002, 05:15 PM
  #24  
Adam M
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funnily enough the board I most frequent is this one, but I tend to find the more technical discussions take place there, and I can learn more there.

but technical discussions are few and far between, so I fill in the gaps with threads like these.

Hence occupying more of my time.

why is the search no good?
Old 18 May 2002, 02:36 PM
  #25  
RICH WILD
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Adam,

You're quite right and if my thread was misleading I do apologise.

I thought I had highlighted the need for caution, but reading back now, I take your point that a novice could have misinterpreted it and ended up in trouble.

I certainly didn't intend to "attack" Moray as you said and if it came across that way I sincerely apologise to him.

I merely wanted him to qualify his statement which did come across to me as a bit of a nasty dig especially due to the "thumbs down" logo. Maybe it would have been better if his post had been a bit more like yours.

He probably knows an awful lot more than I do, so I would have liked to hear his advice.

It's easy to misinterpret the written word especially if sarcasm is involved and if you don't know the person in order to apprecaite their particular sense of humour.

I agree with everything Adam has said so PLEASE if anyone reads this thread, take my comments in the sense that they were made and take precautions and seek the DETAILED advice of someone first.
I know a fair bit now myself, through experimentation which has been a risk I've been prepared to take.

But I appreciate that not everyone is willing to take those risks and they may not know as much as I do, making experimentation dangerous.

As I said before, I use an EGT gauge to monitor things as the Lambda sensor monitors are usually inaccurate over 600 degrees.
I've seen temps of 725 in my downpipe

Hope this clears things up.

Rich

P.s Cheers Dizzy, didn't realise I had a fan club

Edited because I can't spoll.



[Edited by RICH WILD - 5/18/2002 2:38:01 PM]
Old 19 May 2002, 05:33 PM
  #26  
chrisp
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I think this thread has highlighted some interesting views and offers two different approaches.

On the one side you can pay serious money for power and uprate everything internally and externally and have things set up for you if you want piece of mind and not really having to worry or tweak too much. Thats not to say that knowledgable people dont do this work themselves and still play but to me it seems a safe option if you dont want the worry.

The second option is you can do it cheap(er) but you have to know what you are doing and be prepared to adjust and know how to adjust things on the fly and know when to back off and spot when trouble may potentially occur. Constant monitoring of guages and temperatures is called for.

IMHO option 2 to me would probably end in a big bill as I wouldnt have the knowledge, time or the patience and I just want to get in a drive the thing . If that means I have safe(ish) 280/290bhp rather than 330bhp then fair enough I can live with that. Fair play to Rich whose wants major increases of power over standard and sounds to me like he knows what hes doing.

As most people have mentioned the trouble occurs when people try and do it on the cheap and cost cut items or fit items and havent got the skill or experience to see what data they are being given and how to use it.

Just my opinion though and I hope Ihavent got the wrong end of the stick .

Cheers,


ChrisP
Old 20 May 2002, 01:07 PM
  #27  
Dizzy
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and the search is a major pain in the **** :/
I meant ours

Chrisp - I dont have mega bucks so dont go for mega power I'll probably just save up and buy a base car (yours not for sale yet chris )

*The Rich "Wild" Fanclub*
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