Down pipe or centre pipe?
Hi all
Thinking of what my next mod might be..
Currently got a ScoobySport back box.
Want to up the power/torque a bit by improving breathing.
Don't want a huge increase in sound volume.
Would like to avoid having to restore to standard at MOT time if I can.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for reading,
Rich
Thinking of what my next mod might be..
Currently got a ScoobySport back box.
Want to up the power/torque a bit by improving breathing.
Don't want a huge increase in sound volume.
Would like to avoid having to restore to standard at MOT time if I can.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for reading,
Rich

Rich
Replacing the mid pipe will not prevent you passing the MOT provided you haven't poisened your cats (eg run the car on leaded
). Changing the downpipe is likely to cause your car to fail the MOT unless your rear cat is virtually brand new and you give the car a good thrashing to get it hot prior to the test.
Changing the downpipe will give you a better power increase than changing the rear cat, but will be noisier, particularly in the car.
The choice remains yours.
Duncan
Replacing the mid pipe will not prevent you passing the MOT provided you haven't poisened your cats (eg run the car on leaded
). Changing the downpipe is likely to cause your car to fail the MOT unless your rear cat is virtually brand new and you give the car a good thrashing to get it hot prior to the test.Changing the downpipe will give you a better power increase than changing the rear cat, but will be noisier, particularly in the car.
The choice remains yours.
Duncan
I've just had TSL Downpipe fitted and I already had an SS BB, if you don't want more noise, then do not do these mods. Don't get me wrong the difference it amazing, as for the increase in volume, err it's loud
I like the noise


Cheers,
Leigh
I like the noise



Cheers,
Leigh
Bioforger
The main cat on the "classic shape" car is the downpipe cat. The rear cat is an additional one, but has less capacity than the downpipe one and operates at lower temperatures. Other people have successfully passed their MOTs with just the rear cat in place, but they are at risk as the cat ages and becomes less efficient. To pass the test by this method, how about changing both out for normal use and only putting the rear cat in for the MOT. If you take this route, beware of roadside emmission tests. Should you be stopped in one, opt for the 14 day "at an MOT station" option to avoid the test there and then and refit the cat before having it retested!
Duncan
The main cat on the "classic shape" car is the downpipe cat. The rear cat is an additional one, but has less capacity than the downpipe one and operates at lower temperatures. Other people have successfully passed their MOTs with just the rear cat in place, but they are at risk as the cat ages and becomes less efficient. To pass the test by this method, how about changing both out for normal use and only putting the rear cat in for the MOT. If you take this route, beware of roadside emmission tests. Should you be stopped in one, opt for the 14 day "at an MOT station" option to avoid the test there and then and refit the cat before having it retested!

Duncan
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Somebody posted up about this earlier (Bl**dy search is still down) and quoted from the appropriate legislation. Basicly, you have the right to decline the roadside test provided you take another test within 14 days. So, if you run de-cat and get into one of the tests opt for delayed test and refit the cats to pass it.
Duncan
PS If anybody could provide a link to the original thread I'd be grateful.
Somebody posted up about this earlier (Bl**dy search is still down) and quoted from the appropriate legislation. Basicly, you have the right to decline the roadside test provided you take another test within 14 days. So, if you run de-cat and get into one of the tests opt for delayed test and refit the cats to pass it.
Duncan

PS If anybody could provide a link to the original thread I'd be grateful.
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Or maybe I wont bother
(Well you did ask