CV Joint replacement, is it easy to do?
25 August 2011, 11:07 AM
#1
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CV Joint replacement, is it easy to do?
Hello
My CV joint needs replacing as it clicks when turning left at low speed. Therefore I think it is the right outer CV joint.
How hard is it to do? Has anybody writen a numptie guide? Failing that, what would would a garage charge to do it?
Thanks
Mark
My CV joint needs replacing as it clicks when turning left at low speed. Therefore I think it is the right outer CV joint.
How hard is it to do? Has anybody writen a numptie guide? Failing that, what would would a garage charge to do it?
Thanks
Mark
30 August 2011, 10:03 PM
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They have internal snap ring so its just quick blow with hammer. Unfortunatly i needed to remove once to count splines on shaft then refit before ordering for my leggacy as there were two options might not be the case depending on year/ model.
Easy to do just messy. i prefer proper bands which will require banding tool but they are cheap.
Dont know what sort of tools you have but will need 32mm socket, torque wrench and roll pin punches ( old drill bits are sore).
Easy to do just messy. i prefer proper bands which will require banding tool but they are cheap.
Dont know what sort of tools you have but will need 32mm socket, torque wrench and roll pin punches ( old drill bits are sore).
01 September 2011, 11:02 AM
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hi mate done loads of cv joints
1 jack car up at the side you goint to replace
2 put axel stand underneath for saftey
3 take wheel off
4 as above 32mm socket for the big cv joint nut (get someone to press the brake so you can slacken it or use an air gun if available)
5 undo ball joint at the bottom try to get the split pin out without breaking it (mission impossible)if it breaks dont worry get a socket on the nut and it will break the split pin totally but nut will come of (fiddly bit is to clear the broken split pin from the hole to fit new one)
6 use a ball joint splitter tool its like a t pronged fork insert into ball joint belloow the rubber and hit with hammer and it will split from the suspention arm now lever arm down and pull hub out the way
7 now with a rubber hammer hit the cv joint at the front of the hub and it should pop out sometimes if not enought room u might have to take caliper of or the 2 strut bolts to give you enough room to get cv joint out
8 once out take it to left hand side if your right handed take clips of the cv boot and push boot up and out of the way then clean joint with old rag
9 ok hammer time move cv joint to the keft so it exposses the inner bit at the back the shaft has a groove in it and the joint has an internal clip once cv joint is pushed on the clip recesses into this groove so in order to get it off you need to whack the inner bit of the cv joint and it will pop of the shaft. i always keep left hand on shaft pushing it back into the box cause u dont want that popping out of its resting place
10 that the cv joint off
1 jack car up at the side you goint to replace
2 put axel stand underneath for saftey
3 take wheel off
4 as above 32mm socket for the big cv joint nut (get someone to press the brake so you can slacken it or use an air gun if available)
5 undo ball joint at the bottom try to get the split pin out without breaking it (mission impossible)if it breaks dont worry get a socket on the nut and it will break the split pin totally but nut will come of (fiddly bit is to clear the broken split pin from the hole to fit new one)
6 use a ball joint splitter tool its like a t pronged fork insert into ball joint belloow the rubber and hit with hammer and it will split from the suspention arm now lever arm down and pull hub out the way
7 now with a rubber hammer hit the cv joint at the front of the hub and it should pop out sometimes if not enought room u might have to take caliper of or the 2 strut bolts to give you enough room to get cv joint out
8 once out take it to left hand side if your right handed take clips of the cv boot and push boot up and out of the way then clean joint with old rag
9 ok hammer time move cv joint to the keft so it exposses the inner bit at the back the shaft has a groove in it and the joint has an internal clip once cv joint is pushed on the clip recesses into this groove so in order to get it off you need to whack the inner bit of the cv joint and it will pop of the shaft. i always keep left hand on shaft pushing it back into the box cause u dont want that popping out of its resting place
10 that the cv joint off
10 June 2014, 01:45 AM
#5
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hi mate done loads of cv joints
1 jack car up at the side you goint to replace
2 put axel stand underneath for saftey
3 take wheel off
4 as above 32mm socket for the big cv joint nut (get someone to press the brake so you can slacken it or use an air gun if available)
5 undo ball joint at the bottom try to get the split pin out without breaking it (mission impossible)if it breaks dont worry get a socket on the nut and it will break the split pin totally but nut will come of (fiddly bit is to clear the broken split pin from the hole to fit new one)
6 use a ball joint splitter tool its like a t pronged fork insert into ball joint belloow the rubber and hit with hammer and it will split from the suspention arm now lever arm down and pull hub out the way
7 now with a rubber hammer hit the cv joint at the front of the hub and it should pop out sometimes if not enought room u might have to take caliper of or the 2 strut bolts to give you enough room to get cv joint out
8 once out take it to left hand side if your right handed take clips of the cv boot and push boot up and out of the way then clean joint with old rag
9 ok hammer time move cv joint to the keft so it exposses the inner bit at the back the shaft has a groove in it and the joint has an internal clip once cv joint is pushed on the clip recesses into this groove so in order to get it off you need to whack the inner bit of the cv joint and it will pop of the shaft. i always keep left hand on shaft pushing it back into the box cause u dont want that popping out of its resting place
10 that the cv joint off
1 jack car up at the side you goint to replace
2 put axel stand underneath for saftey
3 take wheel off
4 as above 32mm socket for the big cv joint nut (get someone to press the brake so you can slacken it or use an air gun if available)
5 undo ball joint at the bottom try to get the split pin out without breaking it (mission impossible)if it breaks dont worry get a socket on the nut and it will break the split pin totally but nut will come of (fiddly bit is to clear the broken split pin from the hole to fit new one)
6 use a ball joint splitter tool its like a t pronged fork insert into ball joint belloow the rubber and hit with hammer and it will split from the suspention arm now lever arm down and pull hub out the way
7 now with a rubber hammer hit the cv joint at the front of the hub and it should pop out sometimes if not enought room u might have to take caliper of or the 2 strut bolts to give you enough room to get cv joint out
8 once out take it to left hand side if your right handed take clips of the cv boot and push boot up and out of the way then clean joint with old rag
9 ok hammer time move cv joint to the keft so it exposses the inner bit at the back the shaft has a groove in it and the joint has an internal clip once cv joint is pushed on the clip recesses into this groove so in order to get it off you need to whack the inner bit of the cv joint and it will pop of the shaft. i always keep left hand on shaft pushing it back into the box cause u dont want that popping out of its resting place
10 that the cv joint off
Last edited by championcat; 02 July 2014 at 09:47 PM.
02 July 2014, 03:57 PM
#6
Im having a mare removing NS front drivers shaft from the hub. I thought it might be easier replacing the whole lot.
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
The hub nut is undone and the shaft released from the gear box end. Can the splined shaft be knocked through or does it need a press?
Cheers
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
The hub nut is undone and the shaft released from the gear box end. Can the splined shaft be knocked through or does it need a press?
Cheers
02 July 2014, 06:06 PM
#7
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You should be able to remove shaft by hand. Thats not always the case though if its not been removed for a while or copper greased on splines.
I was replacing a rear wheel bearing on my old daily, 200K+ forester, and put 10 ton hydraulic puller on hub with centre on driveshaft. Addition of propane and still couldnt get shaft out. Ended up fitting second hand knuckle and shaft i had spare.
You could try a blow with sledge hammer, might just mushroom end, but would advise against it if your car has abs and the tone ring is not on driveshaft as otherwise the ring sits behind wheel studs and even a featherweight misjudged tap will send studs through ring.
I was replacing a rear wheel bearing on my old daily, 200K+ forester, and put 10 ton hydraulic puller on hub with centre on driveshaft. Addition of propane and still couldnt get shaft out. Ended up fitting second hand knuckle and shaft i had spare.
You could try a blow with sledge hammer, might just mushroom end, but would advise against it if your car has abs and the tone ring is not on driveshaft as otherwise the ring sits behind wheel studs and even a featherweight misjudged tap will send studs through ring.
Last edited by euan_r; 02 July 2014 at 06:07 PM.
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02 July 2014, 08:42 PM
#8
I didnt want to hit it too hard for fear of trashing the bearing and hub. Ive just bought a puller so I'll have a go with that tomorrow.
Also bought a replacement wheel bearing as this amount of force isnt going to do the existing one any favours.
Thanks
Also bought a replacement wheel bearing as this amount of force isnt going to do the existing one any favours.
Thanks
04 July 2014, 04:54 PM
#9
Got both of the drive shafts out. The near side was a real PITA. In the end I uses a large peice of steel bar as a drift with a 2.5 lb lump hammer to seperate the shaft from the hub.
It trashed the wheel bearings and mushroomed the end of the CV joint, the splines were dry.
The drivers side shaft pulled out easily by hand, it was well lubed. Replaced them with these.
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
First impressions are good, complete assembled with joints and gators. Hub nut and roll pin included.
It trashed the wheel bearings and mushroomed the end of the CV joint, the splines were dry.
The drivers side shaft pulled out easily by hand, it was well lubed. Replaced them with these.
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
First impressions are good, complete assembled with joints and gators. Hub nut and roll pin included.
Last edited by edsel; 04 July 2014 at 04:58 PM.
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