Gearbox problems Help
#1
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Gearbox problems Help
Hi everyone im new here can anyone help ? I have just bought a WR1 with 22.000mls on the clock, it is a cat c on v car, but has been repaired before I got it. The guy I bought it from got it from a salvage yard with
400mls on the clock and front end damage he then had it repaied with the
hawkeye front end and used it till there was a problem with the gearbox as far as I know the engine is standard apart from a bailey dump valve. I have owned 3 imprezas and my daily drive is a MY 99 uk turbo so I know little bit about these excelent cars. Anyway my problem is the guy
told me it needed a new gearbox and wont drive but when I got It home I
noticed that if I switch the dccd out of auto mode and wind the dial to the rear the car will drive and seems to go through the gears ok, but if its
in auto mode there is no drive in any gear and it makes a sort of fluttering
slipping sound from I think the gearbox it does not sound like the clutch is slipping because that seems to work ok with dccd out of auto mode, any advice would be appreciated as ive seen the price of sec hand box
400mls on the clock and front end damage he then had it repaied with the
hawkeye front end and used it till there was a problem with the gearbox as far as I know the engine is standard apart from a bailey dump valve. I have owned 3 imprezas and my daily drive is a MY 99 uk turbo so I know little bit about these excelent cars. Anyway my problem is the guy
told me it needed a new gearbox and wont drive but when I got It home I
noticed that if I switch the dccd out of auto mode and wind the dial to the rear the car will drive and seems to go through the gears ok, but if its
in auto mode there is no drive in any gear and it makes a sort of fluttering
slipping sound from I think the gearbox it does not sound like the clutch is slipping because that seems to work ok with dccd out of auto mode, any advice would be appreciated as ive seen the price of sec hand box
#2
If you can drive it with the DCCD in manual mode and the diff locked, but can't with the diff unlocked (or in auto mode) then it most likely either has a broken driveshaft or a broken front or rear diff. Possibly dropgears or the centre diff itself.
You need to find out exactly what's gone as it may well not be in the gearbox - and in this case buying a replacement will cost you a stack of money without actually fixing the problem. Could just as likely be a shaft, or the rear diff. Even if it is a component inside the gearbox case, chances are you will be able to have it fixed for a fraction of the price of a complete replacement.
Driving it with the diff locked like that isn't clever either as it puts an abnormally large load on the centre diff, aside from leaving you with an effectively 2/3wd car that will handle unpredictably. If you can't diagnose this yourself, expert advice would be in order - although you could make a start by looking for anything visibly wrong - for example a broken shaft flailing around.
Worth getting rid of the Bailey valve and refitting a standard one too but that's a completely separate issue. Most important thing for you to do now is to get it diagnosed and fixed before you exacerbate the damage.
You need to find out exactly what's gone as it may well not be in the gearbox - and in this case buying a replacement will cost you a stack of money without actually fixing the problem. Could just as likely be a shaft, or the rear diff. Even if it is a component inside the gearbox case, chances are you will be able to have it fixed for a fraction of the price of a complete replacement.
Driving it with the diff locked like that isn't clever either as it puts an abnormally large load on the centre diff, aside from leaving you with an effectively 2/3wd car that will handle unpredictably. If you can't diagnose this yourself, expert advice would be in order - although you could make a start by looking for anything visibly wrong - for example a broken shaft flailing around.
Worth getting rid of the Bailey valve and refitting a standard one too but that's a completely separate issue. Most important thing for you to do now is to get it diagnosed and fixed before you exacerbate the damage.
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Any1 else any ideas? I have checked the shafts and prop, all looks fine but I checked the oil in the box and its showing nothing on the dipstick and the gearbox undertray is covered in oil it seems to be coming from the metal pipe with the banjo fitting screwed into the sandwich plate on the nearside of the box, would the lack of oil be causing something to slip or not engage inside the box ? or is this just wishfull thinking ?
#6
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These may be of some use,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_5-1.pdf
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_5-2.pdf
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_6.pdf
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_5-1.pdf
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_5-2.pdf
http://www.subaru-car.ru/imp4/imp04_trans_6.pdf
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If the centre diff locks and the car moves, then it could be either the front or rear diff, or as stated one of the driveshafts. In gear jacked up turn the wheels ( front first ) and see what happens. Then jack up the rear and try the same...
You may need a pal to turn one side as you try the opposite wheel.
Then let us know what happens...
dunx
You may need a pal to turn one side as you try the opposite wheel.
Then let us know what happens...
dunx
Last edited by dunx; 06 June 2010 at 10:23 AM.
#10
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I forgot about updating this thread, but just in case you are interested this was the problem I had with the gearbox.
It was the transfer driven gear that was snapped clean off, I found out the car had just been fitted with a new AP racing uprated cluch, and with the guy who sold me the car saying it does great standing starts if you drop the cluch at 6000rpm it explains it all really.
lucky there was no other damage to the box.
It was the transfer driven gear that was snapped clean off, I found out the car had just been fitted with a new AP racing uprated cluch, and with the guy who sold me the car saying it does great standing starts if you drop the cluch at 6000rpm it explains it all really.
lucky there was no other damage to the box.
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