DIY clutch change
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: E Yorks
Posts: 4,791
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DIY clutch change
Classic 5sp, how long we looking at? engine out seems the easiest way, is that true as opposed to dropping the box/shafts/prop/diff off instead?
any Speacial tools needed? heard of a clutch alignment tool, whats this
any Speacial tools needed? heard of a clutch alignment tool, whats this
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Wales
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found taking the engine out easiest if you dont have a ramp and a gearbox jack. Clutch allignment tool ensures that the clutch plate is lined up to the centre of the crank and in turn the centre of the geabox shaft, if its not alligned then the gearbox wont go back on because once the pressure plate is bolted down correctly the clutch plate isnt going to move.
Saying that I didnt have a clutch allignment tool I made something up and then did it by eye lol.... went back together first time though.
Also you need to remember to pull the clutch fork shaft out before trying to pull the gearbox from the engine (once everything else is undone). This is done by taking the bung on the gearbox out which is located around the starter motor then threading a long bolt into the end of the shaft which you can then pull out (cant remeber wat thread, M6 maybe) Doesnt come out with a little pull either lol.
If you can find the manual that used to be kicking around on the net then you can follow how to remove the engine quite easily.
Good Luck with it mate!
Gaz
Saying that I didnt have a clutch allignment tool I made something up and then did it by eye lol.... went back together first time though.
Also you need to remember to pull the clutch fork shaft out before trying to pull the gearbox from the engine (once everything else is undone). This is done by taking the bung on the gearbox out which is located around the starter motor then threading a long bolt into the end of the shaft which you can then pull out (cant remeber wat thread, M6 maybe) Doesnt come out with a little pull either lol.
If you can find the manual that used to be kicking around on the net then you can follow how to remove the engine quite easily.
Good Luck with it mate!
Gaz
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Wales
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
p.s. Time wise your looking about a day to take the engine out and a day to put it back in if you havent done it before... probably not even a complete day either quite a slow paced one!
However, if your like me and think.... "oh the engines out now might as well tidy it up abit and add some more mods" then could be around two weeks lol
Gaz
However, if your like me and think.... "oh the engines out now might as well tidy it up abit and add some more mods" then could be around two weeks lol
Gaz
#4
engine out can be easyer as said if you dont have a ramp, the boxes are mega heavy. As for clutch fork its a 10mm hex key and m6 thread as said. You still need to take shafts off and pop the prop off.
#5
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Wales
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gaz
#7
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ossett
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the prop attaches to the rear diff, the drive shafts run through the front suspension you've got to remove these!!! both are easy however, simply unbolt the prop and remove, (drain the G/B oil first it makes a right mess on the drive !!!) half shafts slide off once you've knocked out the roll pin and undone the wishbone.
Hire a engine lift if you don't have one, lift the lot out together through the top, if none of the bolts are siezed you should have the lot out in less than 2 hrs, it's one of the easier engines to remove.
Hire a engine lift if you don't have one, lift the lot out together through the top, if none of the bolts are siezed you should have the lot out in less than 2 hrs, it's one of the easier engines to remove.
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Wales
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure what advantage that would give you but I personally just took all the wiring off the engine, labeling all the connnectors up as you go, Undo the downpipe from turbo, 2 engine mount bolts, 6 gearbox bolts and the clutch fork pin (not in that exact order).... then I think I loosend the gearbox mounts and jacked that up a little so the engine and gearbox were aiming up and out slightly, split the gearbox from the engine which was helped by the engine lift and just took the engine out alone! This was shown in my project thread last year and there was definatly no removal of any other shafts lol
Gaz
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ossett
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just took the engine out without taking any driveshafts off and without undooing the prop! It sounds like bud took the engine and gearbox out together maybe?
Not sure what advantage that would give you but I personally just took all the wiring off the engine, labeling all the connnectors up as you go, Undo the downpipe from turbo, 2 engine mount bolts, 6 gearbox bolts and the clutch fork pin (not in that exact order).... then I think I loosend the gearbox mounts and jacked that up a little so the engine and gearbox were aiming up and out slightly, split the gearbox from the engine which was helped by the engine lift and just took the engine out alone! This was shown in my project thread last year and there was definatly no removal of any other shafts lol
Gaz
Not sure what advantage that would give you but I personally just took all the wiring off the engine, labeling all the connnectors up as you go, Undo the downpipe from turbo, 2 engine mount bolts, 6 gearbox bolts and the clutch fork pin (not in that exact order).... then I think I loosend the gearbox mounts and jacked that up a little so the engine and gearbox were aiming up and out slightly, split the gearbox from the engine which was helped by the engine lift and just took the engine out alone! This was shown in my project thread last year and there was definatly no removal of any other shafts lol
Gaz
Last edited by budd; 26 May 2010 at 10:46 AM.
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Wales
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sorry your absolutely right, I had some work to do on the gear box so removed the lot, didn't think about it when I posted it, (I've been up since 4am!!) if removing just the engine it's even easier, quite right leave the G/B in place. the release arm fork is the only thing that's unusual in that you need to remove the pivot to release the engine from the box other than that it's straight forward.
Gaz
#11
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ossett
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No Mate it's just me I think I'm going senile LOL,
Or maybe it’s some Subaru related illness that makes jobs appear more complicated than they actually are, this seems to have been happening a lot lately, perhaps I should buy another Nissan they seemed a lot easier!!
Or maybe it’s some Subaru related illness that makes jobs appear more complicated than they actually are, this seems to have been happening a lot lately, perhaps I should buy another Nissan they seemed a lot easier!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM