Otis

I have an MY00 with a WRSport backbox. Pre-Dawes the boost showed 13.5 to 14psi. After fitting the Dawes anything more than 15 to 15.5psi and I hit fuel cut when WOT in 5th. The thing is, I kinda thought I would gain more with the Dawes before hitting the pesky fuel cut. Other than assuming the boost gauge is reading low, is there anything else that could be a factor? AFR reads SOLID blue whenever on WOT.

Otis.

john banks

Probably you are fine, but consider that with the Dawes you are hopefully holding a fair bit more than standard outside the midrange even if you set it to 14 PSI.

Otis

Well to be honest it isn't holding that well neither. Boost does tend to fall as the revs increase much the same as pre-Dawes .

Otis

john banks

Have you noted the boost at say 6000RPM though? Is there really no improvement? If so you acutator might be loose - mine was and improved when I tightened it.

However, 5000-6500 range does hold better with an EBC if my effort is anything to go by.

Otis

I do some testing and post some figures John. I was also going to get my dealer to check the reading of the boost gauge. Will let you know the results.

Cheers

Otis.

Lambo

John, what is this actuator that might need tightening.
I fitted my Dawes and was holding 15 psi, turned it tighter by 1 turn and got 16 psi ( in 4th gear ), which was great, but then hit the fuel cut off in 5th, I think the boost is a bit higher in 5th, so I loosened the Dawes back off a turn, the boost has gone back down but I'm now hitting the fuel cut in 4th and 5th. I'm a little confused as to why this is happening, perhaps I have a loose actuator as well ?
Can I up the fuel cut out , as I also always have a blue AFR light on WOT.

Cheers
Lambo

PS. Other than the pesky fuel cut out the car is absolutely flying, its fab, you wouldn't be able to guess its a turbo car, there doesn't seem to be any noticable lag at all. ( MY99, brown ECU )

john banks

It seems that upping the fuel cut and running 17 (need to know this from MAP sensor (which on mine is spot on compared with calibrated gauge) not your gauge as mine underreads by 1 and at 16 on the standard ECU you would expect to be dicing with fuel cut if it was really running 17.

Adjusting the actuator can fill out the area from 4500 - 6000 RPM on some cars.

However, this and fuel cut raising are not to be undertaken lightly, and would be better done by a professional if you are in any doubt.

Lambo

I suppose a visit to PE needs to be arranged then.

Otis

John,

These are the results from the test runs I mentioned I would do above:

MY00, AE800 ECU, Dawes, 4th gear.
rpm/boost
3000/15
3500/15
4000/14
4500/14
5000/13.5
5500/13
6000/12

What do you think? As you see things do tend to tail off.

Just for info we also did some acceleration times:
0-60mph - 5.8secs (didn't totally juice it to save transmission)
30-50mph - 2.7secs
50-70mph - 3.3secs


Otis.

john banks

I think you could get more by tightening the actuator about 2 turns. Then your boost will not drop until after. My boost curve dropped quite similar to yours before I adjusted things.

However, of course boost does not automatically make more power. It will to a point until the charge gets hot. I don't think you are near that point on your car running the boost you show. But I am sure I am making my turbo work hard for its small size, but not running any more boost than what a lot of people map for - and then with leaner fuelling and more advance. And I do run SUL + NF so over 99 RON equivalent.

Otis

Cheers John,

Never fiddled with said actuator. Do you have some guidance tips for the simple minded folk. Actually we're not that bad but a brief run down on the process would be appreciated just to be sure we're understanding things right .

Otis.

john banks

1. Remove turbo heat shield - usually 3x 10mm bolts.

2. Remove and do not lose (it can ping off) the circlip which holds the wastegate actuator arm in place.

3. Loosen the lock nut on the arm.

4. Release the arm from the bit where you removed the circlip.

5. Rotate the arm say 2 complete turns to shorten it.

6. Refit.

If you go too far, boost will be peaky. You can't really do this using factory boost control. With the Dawes you may have to increase the bleed hole by another 0.5mm if it boosts too much on part throttle again.

Watch on your boost gauge and enjoy.

Don't run around permanently with the heatshield off, but probably OK for a quick blast to check response.

Otis

Many thanks John, that's tomorrows project sorted. One fianl thing, where do I stand with regard to removing the Dawes for say a service visit to the dealer and the actuator adjustment? Do I have to return the actuator rod to the original setting or will things be safe with just the Dawes taken off temporarily?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but better safe than sorry .

Many thanks again,

Otis.

john banks

With the actuator adjusted and then the factory boost controller back it will overboost incredibly badly! You also have to turn the Dawes down to compensate, but it's worth the small amount of hassle.