Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

There must be a few Dawes converts out there now, so I thought I would gather info on 'Individual' set-ups to help find the ultimate set-up for your Model Year (MY) or variant.

The Categories are (with mine as an example):

MY - 1994
Model (UK/WRX/STi) - UK
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 15psi
Bleed Hole Size - Standard

Overall thoughts :
Ran mine with a Bleed valve at 14psi before installing the Dawes. The Dawes seems to pick up slightly better, but not as frantic as I thought it would be.
Slightly more stable than the Bleed Valve setup, but then the Bleed Valve did keep the Boost Control Solenoid in circuit.
AFR readings are good with both set-ups.

[Edited by Scott.T - 1/26/2002 8:29:55 PM]

paulwadams_my99

MY - 1999
Model (ppp) - UK
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 16psi
Bleed Hole Size - 1.5mm



put mine on today my99, boost kept the same as what ppp was doing @ 16psi in 4th gear. I have to say that the boost doesn't really come in that much earlier on mine. Maybe that has something do do with others being decatted? However it holds more boost longer. I do not want to play with it too much until I have a decent afr, hence keeping same boost etc. Will be taking it off tomorrow until i get this sorted.

[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 1/26/2002 10:52:39 PM]

john banks

MY - 2000
Model (UK/WRX/STi) - UK PPP decat panel filter
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 18-19 psi held no peaks
Bleed Hole Size - 2mm (standard is 0.5mm) any less bleed and you get full boost with leanness on part throttle on my car.

Wastegate actuator tightened by three turns - unique to my car as it was boosting lower top end than others.

Very quick for a TD04L car.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Come on guy's there must be more than 3 of us.
I would think there's at least 10 times more than that, as the last group buy bought 20+ into the country.

pumpers

scott , i've got one, just not fitted it yet!! i want to get an afr b4 i fit it. will be done soon i hope, at which time i will post. pumpers.

crispyduck

iTrader: (1)

Here are my details - personally I think it would be useful to include what Dawes you have i.e. Original (cheep) or Super Duty (nearly cheep!). I would buy the Super duty one if it was proven in practice to help reduce spiking.

MY - 2000
Model (UK/WRX/STi) - UK Standard (apart from Dawes that is!)
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - a fraction over 1.2bar on my gauge equivalent to 18 psi I think.
Bleed Hole Size - Standard (but will increase to 1.5mm as per John's analysis to cure the peak a little)
Dawes - Original.

Overall thoughts :
Compared to the standard car the butt-o-meter is very impressed. Boost comes in very aggresively around 2800 RPM in to the red. My car seems to peak at 1.2 bar and settles about 1.1 bar (sorry for the "about" - I wish I got a psi boost gauge now!). Comming of round-a-bouts I can feel the standard wheels/tyres on the limit when it gets a little wet, which hits home just how much the car has improved. In cars like ours, I think if you can feel that much difference we must have gained between 25-30 BPH peak with a much better torque curve. Especially as the difference between standard UL petrol and say Optimax can be as much as 15 BPH! Having said that I did not feel much difference between UL and Optimax on the standard car (without Dawes). It did help the early morning 5-minute hesitiation though - feeling much smoother below 3000 RPM.

So where are the rest of "us"!

Steve.

Luke

Standard 94 Legacy turbo. ITG filter and good oil!!! Know I havent sey it up yet with a gauge but does it make a difference!!! you bet.

Paul_H

MY - 1999 with AE800 ECU
Model - UK
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 1.18 Bar (approx 17 psi?)
Bleed Hole Size - Standard 0.5mm

When setting it up I adjusted it to 1.3 bar, hit fuel cut, then backed off to just under 1.2 Bar. On my car it has made an improvement, in that when coming on boost it does so a little more vigorously, and that is a good result for something that costs not very much. However, it isn't like I've suddenly got a nitrous bottle attached - it isn't a massive increase. I don't expect the increase in boost to cause any engine problems.

ScoobyJawa

Me and Scott W

MY99/MY00 - UK
Boost Solenoid - No
Bleed Hole - 1.5mm
Boost - 1.2 bar on gauge held, no peak.

Car really flies, the torque is fantastic much better than the standard car and how it should have come from the factory.

T-uk

as above to a m8's X-reg.goes moch better now .

Lars

MY - 1999
Model Standard (Non UK)apart from Dawes
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 1.1 bar - 16 PSI
Bleed Hole Size - 1.0 mm
Dawes - Original.
I use a Dawes AFR, and it show 7-9% co2 when on full boost.

Overall thoughts :
Compared to standard, boost comes in very aggresively around 2800 rpm. Peak 1.1 bar and hold 0.9 bar to red line.
Specially the torque curve has improved. It's like getting a new car. My whife don't like it anymore, it's to explosive and uncontrolable. I don't understand her, I love it.
And by the way it helped on the cold hesitiation.

Lars Denmark

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Hi, been on me hols

Will post some interesting before and after dyno runs when I get time - a few days at most, can anyone host my pics (Gav?)

Justin

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Try the uploader at http://upload.turbosport.co.uk/

HarryBoy

MY - 2000
Model (UK/WRX/STi) - UK Wagon
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 15.5psi
Bleed Hole Size - Standard

Now been on the car for about 6000 Miles. Using JB's DIY AFR meter, it's running rich at the top end 9%+, car has SS D/P and ITG filter.

Car is so much better than standard and the Dawes much better than any bleed valve/restrictor combination I have ever tried!

The famous MY00 hesitation is still there but not as bad as standard, might be better due to the quicker rise in boost pressure, I really would like to try an AE800 ECU to see if it cure's this or if Stephen/JB get something put together......then who knows!


Harry

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

MY 95
Model WRX
BSiC No
PSI 13.8
Bleed hole std

Here are the before and after dyno runs, note that the runs are 6 months apart, ambient temps are different. Also on the before run I think it was running 13 PSI but I'm not sure.

Before



After



Pleased? oh yes My main concern was running lean but there was no worries there, we ran the select monitor and CO was 9% + on WOT. The PSI reading was also taken from the monitor. An interesting note was that I expressed my concerns to Merv about running lean/full boost on part throttle, to which he explained that on the early cars (how early I don't know but mine is one of them) the ECU goes WOT at 3800rpm or positive boost, whichever comes first. No wonder these cars are thirsty.

Graph analysis. Forget the figures, I save that for the pub the torque curve is the thing to look at - curve being the operative word here . Note that on the before run the torque starts to plateau over a large radius - 3400 to 4000 rpm. Compare that to the after run and it plateaus at 3700 rpm, beginning to flatten at 3500 rpm. Is this a reduction of wastegate creep? I'd like to think so!
Secondly the torque now holds for longer. On the after run it tails off 250 rpm later - and when it starts to fall, it doesn't do it as quickly as it did before.

BHP - save it for beer time! but at 3500 rpm there is definately a bigger bulge there and I'm told its the area under the graph that matters Also the BHP curve is now smoother around that area.

To conclude - fat torque rules!! oh, and cruise on the motorway at 3750 rpm

It seems that the older, less sophisticated ECU does benefit from a Dawes quite safely. Driveability IMO is fine with the TD05 turbo, and, according to the graphs the in-gear acceleration should be quicker. Seat of the pants-o-meter? It certainly feels a bit livelier, but thats probably placebo and cold weather....

Any comments appreciated - even the ones that say I'm talking rubbish

Thanks

Justin

Darren king

Hi all I'm waiting for my Dawes to come and was wondering this bleed hole that everyone is on about.....do you have to drill it yourself or are you simply enlarging the hole already on it?

john banks

You enlarge it if you want on small (TD04 MY98 I think? onwards).

I highly recommend it as otherwise the part throttle response is stupid and bad for your engine. If you want me to bore you with all the details just ask.

RRH

MY - 01
Model (UK/WRX/STi) - UK WRX
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - Stock (14ish)
Bleed Hole Size - 1.5mm

definitely feels a hell of a lot quicker. boost builds from about 2300rpm, rather than about 2800rpm without the dawes, and approx 3500rpm without Scoobysport DP/ Mids / BB- so i think the improvement's more with the response than the power.
most impressed with the smile per £ ratio- but i only really did it so you can all laugh when it goes BANG.
anyway, i'm sure i'm not the only one who's been daft enough to fit one to a MY01- am i???



[Edited by RRH - 1/30/2002 9:37:02 PM]

Darren king

Thanks John mine is an MY97 ( small turbo ) so I guess I enlarge the hole to 1.5 mm. Any tips on setting it up from scratch, I think I know how to install it but a quick tip on the adjustment screw would be great to save a few wasted runs and fuel!

cheers

Daz

john banks

About half way with a bleed, but go easy with it.

SPEN555

MY - 2000
Model - UK PPP Full Stainless Steel Exhaust, K&N Induction Kit
Boost Solenoid in circuit - No
Psi - 18 psi held no peaks
Bleed Hole Size – drilled to 1.5mm

Just got round to drilling the bleed hole last night. I did not want to fiddle with the boost again so marked up where it was currently set. So I took the device off, drilled it and re-fitted it. I then took it for a spin up the road, third gear I slowly put depressed the throttle, boost rose 15,16,17,18 and when it hit 19 at about 3/4 throttle opened I backed off. So I ended having to re-adjust it again bit by bit. According to my boost gauge I am getting 18Psi in third and fourth gear.

Since getting the device I have been fiddling around with it i.e. Initially to get the device fitted, then to slowly chop the hoses down to as short as possible, then adjust the spring length and now (finally??) drilling the bleed hole to 1.5mm. I have found that after a week or two the second gear boost in particular gets pulled back. For example previously in second gear after setting up the device with the spring stretched I was getting ~16Psi. About a week or two later it was at ~12Psi. This is still better than before Dawes as it was 9Psi in second gear. In higher gears it is less noticeable, here I see drops of 1/2Psi. I have marked the device this time so that I can check if it is managing to rotate and thus change the boost. Or could the ECU somehow be pulling back the boost through some other means? The differences in the higher gears I could explain or put it down to different weather conditions but the second gear variations seem too large to put it down to this.

I am happy with the results of the device. As I don’t do a lot of sustained boost runs I can’t see it having any detrimental effect on my engine. I am however hopefully going to do a track day this year and I am unsure as to the effects of running the Dawes with 17/18Psi and the car being driven on boost for 20 mins or so. Will I be okay still with this set up?

Damian.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Personally I'm not a fan of stretching the spring. In my setup I don't need to. With others you may have to to run higher boost, but surely by stretching the spring you are compromising its effectiveness. If you compress or stretch a spring it should always return to its original start point. If you stretch a spring to the extent that it doesn't return to its start point (i.e. lengthening it) you have breached its elastic limit at some point in the spring, compromising its performance at that point. Indeed that part of the spring is now weaker than other parts and could well start to shorten its overall length after sustained periods of compression. Once inside the Dawes the spring is constantly being compressed, so there may be a chance of a post-stretched spring becoming shorter over time, resulting in reduced boost levels.

If you feel that the original spring is too short (i.e. working too close to its original length) then I suggest changing the spring. Maybe if Darren Dawes could give us the spec of the spring you should be able to purchase one of the same rate but of longer length.

Any comments?

Justin

paulwadams_my99

hmm, sorry to hijack, I was a little surprised that mine was on 15psi at almost the end of the bolt. When i put it on initally boost seemed unlimited.... Whats all that about...

john banks

Seems very sensible Justin, but I was towards fully screwed in and I stretched it slightly only once and it has worked fine for about a month or two since and never required adjustment at all keeping the same boost - ie 18 in 2nd and 3rd and 18.5 in 4th and 5th. Until I have scrutinised the compressor map some more don't really want to run any higher and I think looking at the map will not cause me to turn it any higher. In summer I would want to run a bit lower. On a track I would maybe set it for 17-17.5 and not do silly numbers of laps - I wouldn't anyway.

I try and drive on full boost wherever possible/safe to do so!

Lars

If you can't adjust your Dawes to more boost, Dawes describe how to adjust spring tention in their installation instruction. Dismantle the Dawes, take out the ball and the spring and add a shim vhere the spring is seated into the metal frame ( not the ball end)
I'm running 17PSI (1.1 Bar) without any adjustments to the spring

Take a look in the on-line Dawes instruction.

Added a Copy/Paste from Dawes web page:
Modifying the Controller:

The Boost Controller will support boost pressures in excess of 15 psi, but should you find that you cannot reach your desired boost level, the controller may be modified in the following ways. If these methods do not increase the boost limit, you may have reached the flow limits of your system.

1) Separate the two halves of The Boost Controller to allow removal of the locking nut. This will allow you to tighten the controller an extra turn. Note: It is imperative that you replace the internal components of the controller in the position that you found them. The spring goes on the elbow end, closest to the wastegate.

2) Place a washer at the spring end of the controller to increase the spring load.

3) Slightly stretch the spring to increase it's pressure on the aperture.

It is not recommended that you replace the spring, because you may find that the threshold has been raised too high by the new spring.


Lars

[Edited by Lars - 1/30/2002 12:46:52 PM]

paulwadams_my99

thats for more boost, thats not a problem. Its on a "minimum" of 15psi at the very end. This meant I had to adjust it from the default settings to lower the boost. Just seemed a bit strange compared to everyone else.

Darren king

MY 97 UK model
Standard apart from backbox
soleniod not used
bleed drilled to 1.5 mm

Just fitted the dawes tonight, have got to admitt it hasn't give that much more of a punch when coming onto boost although pulls stronger higher up the rev's than before.( maybe this is cause I drilled the hole to 1.5 mm? )

Hits and holds bang on 15 psi any more and you hit fuel cut so I can confirm cut is about 15.5 on an MY 97.

Would like to here any comments on this maybe it would have been better not to drill the hole on a standard car?

Cheers

Daz