REAR DIFF KNOCKING
#1
REAR DIFF KNOCKING
I have a 98 rev 5 type r with a 4.444 r 180 rear diff and its knocking when i let my foot of the pedal and put it on again at about 30/40 mph had it up on jacks and it seems like play in the diff ..Can i take the diff out and take the play up buy adjusting it in side or is it a new diff job..
#2
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Although Mine is a UK model (3.54) I've just got a diff from the scrappers for £180 and fitted it myself.
Give David at API a shout he'll have the correct diff with the correct ratio instock. I changed mine on the driveway with axle stands. Its more physical than technical but it can be done and I did mine on my own.
Daz
Give David at API a shout he'll have the correct diff with the correct ratio instock. I changed mine on the driveway with axle stands. Its more physical than technical but it can be done and I did mine on my own.
Daz
#4
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Take your exhaust off from the down pipe back.
Undo the four X 12 mm prop shaft to rear diff bolts.
Undo the 2 X 17 mm centre propshaft bolts.
Remove propshaft from rear diff and slide out of gearbox.
Remove 6 x 14 mm rear diff cover bolts and remove cover.
Undo 2 X 19 mm x rear diff support bolts from cross member
Support diff with a jack.
Undo 4 X 14mm diff mounting bolts and lower the diff and move it slightly forward at the same time so the rear bolts clear the crossmember.
This will allow you to move the rear diff to either side this will give you enough play to remove one of the drive shafts. Remove the other drive shaft and lower the jack an remove the diff.
When replacing the diff make sure you put the drive shafts in first and make sure they click into position.
Lining the mounting bracket up is a bit tricky. I raised the rear of the diff up at an angle an put the rear bolts of the diff through the rear cross member.
I then raised the front of the diff and threaded the support bracket bolts through the diff and bolted into position. Refitted the propshaft and exhaust.
Filled the new diff with 75w 90 gear oil until it started coming out of the refil hole.
Daz
Undo the four X 12 mm prop shaft to rear diff bolts.
Undo the 2 X 17 mm centre propshaft bolts.
Remove propshaft from rear diff and slide out of gearbox.
Remove 6 x 14 mm rear diff cover bolts and remove cover.
Undo 2 X 19 mm x rear diff support bolts from cross member
Support diff with a jack.
Undo 4 X 14mm diff mounting bolts and lower the diff and move it slightly forward at the same time so the rear bolts clear the crossmember.
This will allow you to move the rear diff to either side this will give you enough play to remove one of the drive shafts. Remove the other drive shaft and lower the jack an remove the diff.
When replacing the diff make sure you put the drive shafts in first and make sure they click into position.
Lining the mounting bracket up is a bit tricky. I raised the rear of the diff up at an angle an put the rear bolts of the diff through the rear cross member.
I then raised the front of the diff and threaded the support bracket bolts through the diff and bolted into position. Refitted the propshaft and exhaust.
Filled the new diff with 75w 90 gear oil until it started coming out of the refil hole.
Daz
Last edited by dazdavies; 28 December 2007 at 04:38 PM.
#6
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Hi Bri !
The pinion will be shimmed to suit when built at the factory, a thicker shim pack will take up the slack if that's all that is wrong, to the best of my knowledge. If the crown wheel and pinion are worn then they may need replacing, try Zack to see if he's able to have a look ?
DunxC
P.S. Have a good New Year !
The pinion will be shimmed to suit when built at the factory, a thicker shim pack will take up the slack if that's all that is wrong, to the best of my knowledge. If the crown wheel and pinion are worn then they may need replacing, try Zack to see if he's able to have a look ?
DunxC
P.S. Have a good New Year !
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#8
Hi Bri !
The pinion will be shimmed to suit when built at the factory, a thicker shim pack will take up the slack if that's all that is wrong, to the best of my knowledge. If the crown wheel and pinion are worn then they may need replacing, try Zack to see if he's able to have a look ?
DunxC
P.S. Have a good New Year !
The pinion will be shimmed to suit when built at the factory, a thicker shim pack will take up the slack if that's all that is wrong, to the best of my knowledge. If the crown wheel and pinion are worn then they may need replacing, try Zack to see if he's able to have a look ?
DunxC
P.S. Have a good New Year !
Have a good new year mate and stop dumping that clutch..
#12
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The DCCD is in the centre diff, not the rear diff....a knocking in the rear diff is very unlikley to be related to an issue with the DCCD - which is just an epicylic centre diff (similar to a quattro or Cosworth 4x4) it just happens to have plate LSD controlled by a magnet.
Simon
Simon
#14
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Hmmm a bit OTT if yours an R160, for an R180 its still a bit pricey! What diff did you put in, and why not get the plate diff rebuilt with reduced preload? (about an hours job max for someone who knows what they are doing - so two hours including removal and refitting).
Simon
Simon
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