I have a 98 rev 5 type r with a 4.444 r 180 rear diff and its knocking when i let my foot of the pedal and put it on again at about 30/40 mph had it up on jacks and it seems like play in the diff ..Can i take the diff out and take the play up buy adjusting it in side or is it a new diff job..

 

Although Mine is a UK model (3.54) I've just got a diff from the scrappers for £180 and fitted it myself.

Give David at API a shout he'll have the correct diff with the correct ratio instock. I changed mine on the driveway with axle stands. Its more physical than technical but it can be done and I did mine on my own.

Daz

 

Cheers mate do you have to take the drive shafts out first or do they slide out has you lower the diff..

 

Take your exhaust off from the down pipe back.

Undo the four X 12 mm prop shaft to rear diff bolts.

Undo the 2 X 17 mm centre propshaft bolts.

Remove propshaft from rear diff and slide out of gearbox.

Remove 6 x 14 mm rear diff cover bolts and remove cover.

Undo 2 X 19 mm x rear diff support bolts from cross member

Support diff with a jack.

Undo 4 X 14mm diff mounting bolts and lower the diff and move it slightly forward at the same time so the rear bolts clear the crossmember.

This will allow you to move the rear diff to either side this will give you enough play to remove one of the drive shafts. Remove the other drive shaft and lower the jack an remove the diff.

When replacing the diff make sure you put the drive shafts in first and make sure they click into position.

Lining the mounting bracket up is a bit tricky. I raised the rear of the diff up at an angle an put the rear bolts of the diff through the rear cross member.

I then raised the front of the diff and threaded the support bracket bolts through the diff and bolted into position. Refitted the propshaft and exhaust.

Filled the new diff with 75w 90 gear oil until it started coming out of the refil hole.

Daz

 

Thanks alot for all that info i rang api but i think he must be still shut for xmas so i email them for a price thanks again Bri..

 

Hi Bri !

The pinion will be shimmed to suit when built at the factory, a thicker shim pack will take up the slack if that's all that is wrong, to the best of my knowledge. If the crown wheel and pinion are worn then they may need replacing, try Zack to see if he's able to have a look ?

DunxC

P.S. Have a good New Year !

 

Bri pm me I have a guy in Barnsley that will be able to rebuild your existing diff

Banny

 

Hi dunx got told yesterday by jb its the magnets in the diff he thinks that are not sticking together i will have to wait and see till everybody is back at work next week..Bri

Have a good new year mate and stop dumping that clutch..

 

Magnets ? wtf ? jb.... Hmmmm

Will till the diff lock kit is fitted !

Wah ha ha !

Dunxc

 

The magnets have something to do with the dccd in the front of the diff ..

 

Hmm sounds like witchcraft.... Non-DCCD driver myself

DunxC

 

The DCCD is in the centre diff, not the rear diff....a knocking in the rear diff is very unlikley to be related to an issue with the DCCD - which is just an epicylic centre diff (similar to a quattro or Cosworth 4x4) it just happens to have plate LSD controlled by a magnet.

Simon

 

i payed 500 for my 99 type r rear diff.
was this a good or bad price.
had to change it cos it had tight compition diff in it and was eatin clutches

 

Hmmm a bit OTT if yours an R160, for an R180 its still a bit pricey! What diff did you put in, and why not get the plate diff rebuilt with reduced preload? (about an hours job max for someone who knows what they are doing - so two hours including removal and refitting).

Simon