Clutch smell (Hawkeye)
#1
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Clutch smell (Hawkeye)
I tried 2day for the first time to do alaunch in my scooby.. the first one was ok at about 4000rpm but i thought i could do better so i tried asecond time i built up at about 5000rpm andtried to feedin the clutch (didnt want to be 2 harsh to it)... the car stayed still, the steering wheel started making vibrations but the car wasnt moving at all so i presses fully down the clutch pedal and that awful smell came into the car (burned clutch) the clucth except for the smell seems to be running just fine ( no slip) so ithink its ok... can anyone help me with this( is the clutch ok, when will the smell stop, and why was the steering wheel vibrating if i wasnt wheelspinning?)the car is a jdm hawkeye sti...
#2
If the car has not been 'launched' hard for some time (ever?) then it is the residue burning and giving the smell a lot of us know well....
The intense friction heats the surfaces and the contaminants fry.
However, the clutch (when cooled down) will probably work fine after.
The secret to a hard launch and clutch longevity is to reduce slip to Zero, as in none. It is the split second of intense heat when engaging at high rpm that kills them, so:
Be very very blunt with the clutch action. 5000 rpm and lift your leg as fast as you can! Once you are used to the action it is easy.
The resulting wheelspin relieves the shock to the transmission to a degree.
Eventually, the stock clutch will cry 'enough' so then fit a good aftermarket unit such as an AP Organic.
I have hillclimbed my Sti (all drag race starts) for over 140 starts at 6000 rpm and dump the clutch for 3 years and 10000 road miles and all is solid and smell free. All the starts have been on racing tyres so super sticky compared to a road tyre.
If you want your car to get-up-and-go this is the way.
Graham.
The intense friction heats the surfaces and the contaminants fry.
However, the clutch (when cooled down) will probably work fine after.
The secret to a hard launch and clutch longevity is to reduce slip to Zero, as in none. It is the split second of intense heat when engaging at high rpm that kills them, so:
Be very very blunt with the clutch action. 5000 rpm and lift your leg as fast as you can! Once you are used to the action it is easy.
The resulting wheelspin relieves the shock to the transmission to a degree.
Eventually, the stock clutch will cry 'enough' so then fit a good aftermarket unit such as an AP Organic.
I have hillclimbed my Sti (all drag race starts) for over 140 starts at 6000 rpm and dump the clutch for 3 years and 10000 road miles and all is solid and smell free. All the starts have been on racing tyres so super sticky compared to a road tyre.
If you want your car to get-up-and-go this is the way.
Graham.
#4
Possibly the clutch WAS slipping for that time and all manner of vibrations can occure.
If the car was totally still then no power was into the box to the front or the rear.
Have you checked also:
Gearbox oil level?
Any traces of oil out of the clutch housing underneath?
If the car was totally still then no power was into the box to the front or the rear.
Have you checked also:
Gearbox oil level?
Any traces of oil out of the clutch housing underneath?
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