navydoubs1977

ive just found out i have got a prob with the rear dampers on my p1 apparently quite a common problem. subaruhave just quoted 475 just to do a mount so i would imagine the whole suspension set would cost thousands.
does any one know where i can get cheap replacements for these or is there an after market kit that would replace them with a similar feel and handling. a full kit would be great with everything needed to replace the lot
dave

navydoubs1977

SORRY WRONG PLACE I KNOW

Moley

iTrader: (9)

TBH i wouldn't change it for an aftermarket make (coilovers etc) as the P1 suspension is pretty much the best around, enless your turning it into a track car.

I 'think' they use the same dampers as the STI 6, so might be able to get one of those from a specialist breakers if you don't mind second hand

navydoubs1977

I THINK THEY ARE SAME DAMPERS DIFFERENT SPRINGS??
id love to stick with ones fitted but i think a new set is gonna be a fortune has anyone had to get them if so any ideas on the price. just when they say 475 for a mount the whole thing sounds pretty expensive
does anyone know if the stiction thing is right, and could cause the wheel to feel like the brakes on, when u pull away its like it clicks off like a sticking pad would, but the pads and brakes are fine

P1 NUT

iTrader: (1)

I had to change mine on my P1 one and was quoted near on £2000 for 4 new standard complete units. Decided to go for the tein superstreet kit as it was £850 fitted. Car handles much better now.

borat52

I bought the prodrive professional setup for mine (p1 springs and cusom prodrive dampers based on the p1/sti5/6), paid £900 for the springs and dampers (simpsons of swindon) and got powerstation to fit them with a load of whiteline kit for around £350 as I recall. Car is now set up beautifully for the road. Not really sure on coilovers as I was put off by the rumours of a very hard ride, but powerstation assured me at the time that they could be set up to be no harder than the prodrive kit.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Low Mileage P1 used, standard suspension in stock at APi £100.00 + VAT per corner and £60.00 + VAT per corner to fit and camber up properly.

David APi

navydoubs1977

cheers for your help with this guys
its back with the dealer i got it from getting looked at again. had to threaten with trading standards to get anywhere not a good experiance. in theory though should come back sorted but its not a main dealer and so far im not impressed, will prob just change one damper instead of both sides.
ive read loads of horror storys about p1s since getting it. it does have full main dealer history but has done 80k, does this mean my engine will pop any mo ive read that if it makes it past 60k its doing well.
is that right ????

911

I can't see why a P1 should be fragile if treated like any other Sti /Scooby engine.

Warm up, cool down, good oil/regular changes sensible use (ie do not buzz the engine on change down shifts.

Oh, and cam belt changes of course.
Graham

Moley

iTrader: (9)

I would probably advise to go for a re-map, have a look on P1 Web Owners Club :: Warning, may contain nuts! and they'll advise why

navydoubs1977

moley wrx

ive been trying to get on the p1 owners site for about a month now no joy, dont know if its my comp or the site its self.
ive had subarus before one with 120k on and not had probs with em, but i see p1 links on here with popped engines everywhere, even sparchatts said, its doing well to be over 60k. not what you wanna here when you just got it lol
how does a remap help surley that makes it quicker an d therefore working harder, or are we talking about going the other way with it.

do you know any simple cheapish mods that can be done to get it to the 300bhp instead of the 280 i belive it has.
once again thanks for your help with this

911

Now you say ecu, I seem to recal the P1's ecu is a bit on the edge?
Maybe that brings in the un-reliability.

That would be easy to fix with an Apexi FC and a good map.(£750 ish)

cursed bat

navydoub, I had the same prob with P1WOC site not responding with aol but thanks to tip from another user found that it works fine in internet explorer!

navydoubs1977

cursed bat
thanks i will try it from msn then cheers mate.

navydoubs1977

so p1s ecus are a bit of a prob are they 750 is a bit more than i have though in fact 7.50 is more than i have at mo lol.
i guess thats the reason for the remap, then to cure the prob, will that give me a bit more bhp or do i need exhaust and airflow stuff sorting too!
cheers guys

Fat Boy

If your car is not decatted at the moment and you are pretty sure that it has never been so in the past, plus also it will hopefully have been run on at least SUL all it's life then it will be no more or less unreliable than any other scooby.

If it has been decatted than it needs remapping as the STiV ecu that is the basis for the P1 ecu ( basically the same thing with a couple of little additions from Prodive in relation to knock sensitivity plus they chucked some broquets in the fuel tank to again try to reduce any possible knock) has two spots where the standard engine fuel map runs a bit lean. Add in a decat and / or an induction kit and due to the increased breathing those areas become dangerously lean. An ecutek remap or one of the other alternatives will basically involve amongst other things adjusting the map to add fuel in the thin areas.

So if you want a P1 engine to be as good as any other scooby then DON'T:

Decat
Add an induction kit
Add a vent to atmosphere blow off valve
run on ordinary unleaded

unless the car has been remapped by a reputable mapper.

My P1 ( which I've had from new) was decatted 4 years ago, runs an STi filter in the standard induction set up and has a standard re circulating dump valve. It has always run on SUL/ usually optimax and, for added safety, I have always added 1ml/litre of NF Race octane booster (which I take up to 3mls/ per litre on track)

It was remapped by Bob Rawle using the Ecutek kit plus an uprated fuel pump and 3 way boost solenoid at the same time. I also fitted a knocklink and boost gauge as an extra way of keeping an eye on the engine, which has proved useful to protect the car against dodgy batches of fuel / a failing Maf etc etc. (Fools like PS Lewis will probably charge on here at this point to fulminate against "Cocklinks" but he's an idiot who doesn't know what he's talking about and thinks it's funny to give mis-information - so ignore him).

You won't get any better info on PIWOC so I wouldn't worry if you can't get on there

navydoubs1977

fatboy
cheers for that, the car has a pack of history that adds to thousands and thousands, so i would hope if someone can afford to put it into subaru for things like bulb changes they would have run it on sul. i have always put optimax in so hopefully should be ok. its not decatted or running different filters. without delving to deep it apears to be as it left the showroom.
i feel much happier now thanks for your help dave

Fat Boy

No probs - sounds a good one - apart from the old suspension chestnut

navydoubs1977

well its sorted, was the dampers so thanks for all your help il no doubt be back for more help in future.
dave

Fat Boy

cool