john banks

Is it OK just to use the standard knock sensor with this?

Is it easy to fit? Where do you tap the output - at the ECU - I know the pin?

Presumably an increase in noise apart from that from revs would give you some warning of detonation assuming nothing had suddenly gone wrong - ie if you'd done some mods and the car was hardly lighting up the Knocklink this would be reassuring?

As per my other post I am very disappointed in trying to use the standard lambda sensor output to interpret fuelling - it is so dependent on temperature as to be useless off stoich as far as I can see - glad I discovered this before shelling out on a Lambdalink.

T-uk

John,

I have the simple answer to all your problems,sell me your PPP ECU and go buy a full Link package from BRD .

john banks

Mmmmm, I had thought of something like that. But I love the way the car runs at present - just want it to stay that way!

Have read on I-club that post MY99 ECUs have a check engine light when you piggy back the Knocklink onto the factory sensor. Anyone confirm/refute this for a UK turbo?

T-uk

stop ******* about with it then and it will stay that way .

john banks

Just a bit more boost at the top end, and that will finish it, but not finish it off I hope.

Star performance quoted 60+VAT for a power run. Bit cheaper than that on a RR day?

Sam Elassar

why do you want to use the standard knock sensor ? why do you want to get a new sensor 30-40£ and save yourself the trouble. this way at least if the factory sensor is not working and not picking up the noises you will see it with the extra one.

i have to disagree with you re the lambda link, it works maybe not very well but it can definitely gave you a good indications of where you mixtures are. you just have to learn how to read it, some times what you see is not what you have.

T-uk

Unichip's UK dealer lives in Dunfermline you know

john banks

Unichip - yes I saw Storm Force were the UK dist, but never heard of anyone getting a Subaru map off them?

So Sam - if I am increasing boost over the PPP standard just at the top end and on part throttle (but still keeping to 17PSI) do you think I should have Lambda or Knocklink or both?

Sam Elassar

hi john

you can raise the boost to 17/18psi the very little effects on the road ( depending on the car of course). the problem lies with the intercooler more than anything else. so repeated drive on boost as per track use may cause a problem as the charge temps starting getting really high.

what is the standard boost pressure of the PPP?

so to answer your question, if you are going to stop at the level you are at, then save your money. but what is the chances of that very slim i would say just judging by your posts lately, so yes get them now as they are just like boost gauge, EGT etc.. they are just a guide and can be very handy at times.

one thing for sure, you may be happy with the way you car is going now espcially with the cold weather and every thing but how long is it going to take for you to get used to this level of power ? i will give you 4 weeks max before you would want to do something else.

john banks

FMIC, turbo and Link mmmm. But I wouldn't trust the brakes, suspension, clutch, gearbox with that much, and the cost would be so much on insurance as well - I'm 27 and working on <=20% power increase.

My PPP unmodded was running 16.5 PSI held on a hot day. With decat and a valve it runs 17.5 PSI - set for cold days.

Might kick off with a Lambda link then since I've already done the wiring, and will have to learn how to read it properly. Maybe the excellent way the LEDs are marked on it for different conditions will be a lot easier to read than a voltmeter.

If I can reassure myself from that that the fuelling is ballpark I'll stick there and presume it is not knocking. Don't want the hassle of taking the intercooler off to fit the knock sensor for Knock Link, but I suspect like all these things once you've done it once you could do it in the dark.

T-uk

John,

as you do not track the car I think your brakes,suspension etc. would cope with a FMIC,turbo and Link.

the main reason I decided not to go Link was because of the temptation to fit a bigger turbo and front mount when I love track days so much,I just feel that the gains offered by these are too high for the gearbox to cope with on track.

Sam's car,in my opinion was beyond the limit for a UK car that does track days(flame suit on),the engine was too powerful for everything else.

Sam Elassar

come on you are thinking of spending all this money on your mods and then you are worrying about insurance i had my car insured with all the mods, turbo,fmic,link,exhaust etc.. 7 speeding points and i am 28 for 1100 so that is not too bad is it?

as john said if you are not taking it to track you should not have any problems.

i have been through 2 gearboxes but i had my car on track almost twice a month in the summer at least .

the lambda link is very good, but what are you going to do if you find out that you are running lean at the very top end ? cry, panic thats is why the link is good.

why do you want to remove the intercooler to fit the knock link ? you will find most people have fitted on one of the intercooler brackets that is connected to the block.

t-uk
my car was done to prove a point more than anything else, there was a lot of BS on how you could not get a UK car over 300bhp and all that. and i have to admit that i never thought that the gear box was that week oh well. will see how is the new one do

john banks

> you are worrying about insurance

It's the wife if I'm honest.

> what are you going to do if you find out that
> you are running lean at the very top end

Take my induction kit off and turn down the boost. Then cry because it will be slower and buy a Link

That mounting point you suggest sounds rather better than other suggestions.

How many green lights on your Lambda Link do you have at WOT? How many would you want to see just at the rev limiter?

Sam Elassar

are you a man or are you a wos you know that if you work hard you have to play hard, otherwise life becomes dull.

the lambda link has got 3 leds one 6,7 and 9%co however as you know you because the lambda sensor heats up very quickly you only have one shot at it, after that it starts reading lean. i found that when i set the car up for mid green ( 7-8% co) it is ususlly around 8-9% co on the rollers.

i am using a wide range lambda sensor instead of the standard one with the lambda link for mapping on a project car that we are doing just now. but have not had time to correlate the probe with the co% on the rolling road yet.

sam

john banks

She gets upset that I pay £1200 on insurance compared with £250 only 3 years ago on my 55bhp Punto. She doesn't like her 3.0 V6 and preferred her Fiesta If she moans too much I just threaten her with one of three things to shut her up: "Skyline" "M3" or "Evo7". Usually works

Anyway, back to the topic - do you think then that in general most folk would get about 1% higher CO on the RR than they get from a Lambda link or is this just the result based on your individual narrow band lambda sensor?

Sam Elassar

what i am saying that is that there was only 1% co in it between them. at the end how accurate is their gas analyser? so the lambda sensor is quite accurate albiet very briefly before it heats up. that is what i ment when i said you need to know how to read it.

i have always mapped my car for around 8% which the mid and last green lite together for safety, although you can probably get more power at 6-7% region.

what i am planning to do is to get around 3-4 linked cars around feb time and book the rolling road for around 3-4 hours find what different mixture give what powers and what egt kind of thing

sam

WREXY

John,

Regarding your Knocklink sensor questions, see this thread from I Club, and follow Jan Shims advice. This is what I followed when I installed mine.

http://i-club.com/forums/showthread....threadid=72454

Cheers,

Wrexy.

R19KET

All I keep hearing, is that the Lambda Link is useless, it doesn't, or can't work. RUBBISH !!!!!!!

Bob Rawle has a very good reputation for mapping cars, wht do you think HE uses ???? The rest of us who tune our own cars use them, and if you look at the vast majority of the top cars on the RR day, they all have them installed.

Like Trout mentioned in the "Link zones" post, it's learning how to use it correctly.

As for the Knock Link, if you want it to be accurate, and reliable, use the recommended Bosch sensor.

Mark. Oh, another UK car broke 340bhp/300ftlbs today, guess what that was mapped with ?????

john banks

Thanks guys - you've convinced me. I think also that using LEDs rather than a DVM may be an easier way to do it so Lambda Link will be ordered on Monday.