FLAMMER KIT
#1
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FLAMMER KIT
Been a while since ive posted anything on here, but as always when im stuck and need abit of advise, I turn to you guys.
Just bought a flammer kit for my Classic Scooby after going to USC and seeing the Flame-out comp, thought they looked well cool. My problem is where to mount it in the boot as i dont want to go cutting holes around the spare wheel well to run the HT lead through. Has anyone fitted one of these before?? If so where did you mount the coil in the boot??
Any advise would be much welcomed.. Any pics??
TheArtfulTodger.
Just bought a flammer kit for my Classic Scooby after going to USC and seeing the Flame-out comp, thought they looked well cool. My problem is where to mount it in the boot as i dont want to go cutting holes around the spare wheel well to run the HT lead through. Has anyone fitted one of these before?? If so where did you mount the coil in the boot??
Any advise would be much welcomed.. Any pics??
TheArtfulTodger.
#2
Originally Posted by TheArtfulTodger
Been a while since ive posted anything on here, but as always when im stuck and need abit of advise, I turn to you guys.
Just bought a flammer kit for my Classic Scooby after going to USC and seeing the Flame-out comp, thought they looked well cool. My problem is where to mount it in the boot as i dont want to go cutting holes around the spare wheel well to run the HT lead through. Has anyone fitted one of these before?? If so where did you mount the coil in the boot??
Any advise would be much welcomed.. Any pics??
TheArtfulTodger.
Just bought a flammer kit for my Classic Scooby after going to USC and seeing the Flame-out comp, thought they looked well cool. My problem is where to mount it in the boot as i dont want to go cutting holes around the spare wheel well to run the HT lead through. Has anyone fitted one of these before?? If so where did you mount the coil in the boot??
Any advise would be much welcomed.. Any pics??
TheArtfulTodger.
#4
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Is there going to be enough room to put the spare wheel back in?? Or did you leave it out. Think i still need to drill two holes to mount the coil...
Fitting it tommorow and just thought id see if anyone had fitted one before i give it a go.
Thanks
Fitting it tommorow and just thought id see if anyone had fitted one before i give it a go.
Thanks
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (19)
very easy mate
You will need "
some waxoyl(or similar) in a can for sealing the holes
drill
double sided sticky tape,big thick stuff.
1. remove the spare wheel
2. run the lead through the rubber grommet in the floor plan.
3. Leave the lead hanging down ready to fit to exhaust
the coil pack usually comes in 2 pieces. the bit with the fuse on it and the actual coil pack itself which has the HT lead attached.
Drilling is usually required for the coil pack, tends to have a bracket on them.
4. measure and drill two holes into the floor plan, fit and waxoyl over to seal hole.
5. sticky tape to fit the other part to the side of the spare wheel well.
(sometimes there is an earth lead, so again a small hole needed for that, but some people fit this to the rear of the boot wall, making sure you scrape off the paint to get a good metal contact.
6.Once fitted, put spare wheel back in, but move it forward and secure using the big bolt. There should be enough room for the kit and wheel.
dunno how I know all this
You will need "
some waxoyl(or similar) in a can for sealing the holes
drill
double sided sticky tape,big thick stuff.
1. remove the spare wheel
2. run the lead through the rubber grommet in the floor plan.
3. Leave the lead hanging down ready to fit to exhaust
the coil pack usually comes in 2 pieces. the bit with the fuse on it and the actual coil pack itself which has the HT lead attached.
Drilling is usually required for the coil pack, tends to have a bracket on them.
4. measure and drill two holes into the floor plan, fit and waxoyl over to seal hole.
5. sticky tape to fit the other part to the side of the spare wheel well.
(sometimes there is an earth lead, so again a small hole needed for that, but some people fit this to the rear of the boot wall, making sure you scrape off the paint to get a good metal contact.
6.Once fitted, put spare wheel back in, but move it forward and secure using the big bolt. There should be enough room for the kit and wheel.
dunno how I know all this
#6
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Thanks for the advise. Fitted it today, it works ok but no flames.....
Ive got a full de-cat pipe, SSQDV dump vave, induction kit... just missing the flames.
Ive heard afew causes ranging from the gap in the spark too small to taking afew days to work properly.. Any ideas??
Todge.
Ive got a full de-cat pipe, SSQDV dump vave, induction kit... just missing the flames.
Ive heard afew causes ranging from the gap in the spark too small to taking afew days to work properly.. Any ideas??
Todge.
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#8
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Yea, came as a full kit with a module. Flick the switch and the plug sparks constantly, tried revving, blipping etc... nothing.
Spark plug gap too small perhaps?? Dont know what else to try.
Todge.
Spark plug gap too small perhaps?? Dont know what else to try.
Todge.
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
If yor car is setup correctly then it will only flame under certain conditions.
The easiest to try is... get it nice and warm with a couple of full boost blasts then leave it in 3rd or 4th and let the revs drop off with no gas (accelerator), when the revs drop below around 2K rpm the overrun will kick in and all you need to do is tap the gas to send a burst of unburnt fuel out the back. Works best going down hills.
The second way is harder, its all about the timing of letting the clutch out when chaging gear. Again get it nice a warm with a couple of full boost runs then take it fairly high up the rev range on the next run and do a slow change.... Hold the clutch in for slightly longer then normal and plant the gas just before you let the clutch out. When you get this just right then you will be able to do it almost everytime.
Whne you see people sitting on the spot and blowing flames it just means that their fueling it setup FAR to rich.
The Hoff.
The easiest to try is... get it nice and warm with a couple of full boost blasts then leave it in 3rd or 4th and let the revs drop off with no gas (accelerator), when the revs drop below around 2K rpm the overrun will kick in and all you need to do is tap the gas to send a burst of unburnt fuel out the back. Works best going down hills.
The second way is harder, its all about the timing of letting the clutch out when chaging gear. Again get it nice a warm with a couple of full boost runs then take it fairly high up the rev range on the next run and do a slow change.... Hold the clutch in for slightly longer then normal and plant the gas just before you let the clutch out. When you get this just right then you will be able to do it almost everytime.
Whne you see people sitting on the spot and blowing flames it just means that their fueling it setup FAR to rich.
The Hoff.
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