GavinP

Harry - excellent photo!

The setup for an early car is VERY similar to the picture above....

The only visual difference is the wastegate actuator's (gold thing) hose connection is at the bottom rather than the side of the actuator. Connect silver silicon hose to it as shown in the picture (using a hose clip or clamp).

The turbo nipple is in the same place (may be obscured by air filter assembly) and has a hose leading from it which has a convenient joiner in it. Trace the hose from the turbo nipple to find the joiner and connect the other end of the Dawes into the hose leading to the turbo nipple (use a hose clip or clamp).

Use the other half of the hose (with the joiner) to connect to the hose you took off of the wastegate actuator (making a loop).

Job done!

Thanks

Gavin

[Edited by GavinP - 12/6/2001 1:56:45 PM]

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

OK, heres how I did mine, a MY95 WRX. This should apply to cars pre97, I think. Before I go on, a big thanks to all involved, especially the early posters on this thread and the "How to fit" thread. Basically I followed Scott's method, except where he joins the left over tubes together, I just blanked them off with bolts.

Heres what it looks like once fitted - note I haven't clamped the tube at the time, since I hadn't set the MBC up. Once you start adjusting the MBC it twists the tube, so once you have set it to the correct level and made sure the tube isn't twisted, then clamp it!



The grey box on the left is the airbox after the MAF just to get your bearings!

This pic is with the main air intake hose removed - you have to remove this to get to everything.



Hose 2 used to be fitted where hose 1 is now. I blanked off hose 2 with a bolt
Hose 1 is from the elbow end of the MBC. This is the hose provided with the MBC, shortened by 50mm.
Hose 3 and 4 used to be connected together with a joiner. When disconnecting these, keep the joiner on hose 3 and attach to it the 50mm of leftover silver tube. Then fit the other end of the MBC to the silver hose.
I blanked off hose 4 with a bolt.

Sorry that hose 3 isn't clearly labelled, this is my first go at editing a digital piccy..

Anyway refit all tubes, forget to clamp the actuator nipple, take everything apart again, fit clamp and refit everything again! Well thats how I did it anyway

Good luck all, and make sure you use a boost gauge when setting it up!!

Justin

edit to change picture url, and spelling of course..


[Edited by Jay m A - 12/10/2001 10:06:39 AM]

GavinP

Damien,

So are you running it between the turbo nipple and the wastegate actuator ?

This is what increases the spool-up time...

It is not a subtle change!

Thanks

Gavin

[Edited by GavinP - 12/9/2001 2:43:51 PM]

SPEN555

Gavin,

Yes I am running the set up you mention and the T-piece to the wastegate solenoid has been blanked off with a screw. I have only used the silver hose supplied. I cut the hose down and I am using it either side of the device.

John,

I am surprised as well, going from 15PSi held to 17PSi held I would expect to be able to instantly feel more grunt. If I put it in third and floor the accelerator by the time I hit 3000rpm I am hitting 17/17.5PSi.

However, I have run this on country roads near my house which I don't use on a regular basis. When I am commuting to work this week then maybe it will become more apparent that I have more power/torque.

I am sure it is fitted right. I bought some clamps from Halfords as you suggested John and the tube is nicely clamped. At this moment in time it feels as though 15PSi vs. 17PSi there is little difference.

I will report my findings further into the week when I've had chance to drive the roads I drive day in and out.

Damian.

[Edited by SPEN555 - 12/9/2001 4:24:30 PM]

GRANT

Is this any better than a EVC.

Grant



[Edited by GRANT - 12/9/2001 11:24:43 PM]

john banks

As title. Does it control boost better than the factory system? On a UK car does the boost still drop at the top end? (is this a function of the small turbo or does the ECU do it?)

If your ECU has a map up to 19PSI (PPP) can you run it at peak/held of 18PSI? Does the Dawes system actually give you a peak or does it quickly reach target?

Any downsides?

I intend to keep the fuel cut out intact at 19.3PSI.

iain atkins

Hi,

Just wondered if someone can post a picture of how they have installed the MBC.

I have a UK97 (straight intercooler)

I intend on putting it directly after the turbo nipple, and then have the original pipework (90 dgree bit of pipe with brass restrictor in it) connected to the outlet of the MBC to keep the overboost protection etc.

Cheers



Iain

Luke

Come on lads...!!! lets get some pics up to help us fit the "DD's"


Anyone else fitting to a standard early car????

SPEN555

Harry,

You are a star this is the exact kind of picture I wanted to see. Nice and clear for a simpleton such as myself.

I am on holiday tommorrow so I'm tempted to have a go.

Forgive my ignorance but does this setup still retain the brass restrictor and factory overboost cut?

Damian.

HarryBoy

Damian,

You remove the existing hose with restrictor, T piece, and the hose going to the wastegate actuator. The hose going to the duty (boost) solenoid then needs to be sealed of with, say, a short bolt...

Scott has a bleed valve in the line from the Turbo output nipple to the the Dawes Device. I have not tried this. Scott says it lowers the boost ramp IE. without a bleed valve you can get full boost at about 20-25% throttle which may lead to fueling issues, hence all the interest in the DIY AFR thread.

John has tested with the Dawes, connected as in the picture, on his MY00 PPP and is happy with the fueling at part throttle/full boost. I will check my MY00 today. All cars are different, check yours, don't rely on what I or others say, use it only as a guide!

The boost cut/fuel cut should remain in-place as the MAP is connected to the manifold but I have not wound up my boost to check it!

Well, I can now confirm that a) the fuel cut *does* remain in-place as I just hit it on the way home! and b) my boost gauge under-reads by about 1 to 1.5 PSI!

Play safe, don't go for silly boost levels, understand what your car does now and be sensible when setting the Dawes Device.

Harry

Added confirmation of fuel cut.

http://www.geocities.com/harryboy_scooby

[Edited by HarryBoy - 1/31/2002 11:39:38 AM]

[Edited by HarryBoy - 2/3/2002 5:29:10 PM]

[Edited by HarryBoy - 2/7/2002 5:59:31 PM]

john banks

Can't post a picture, but mine is connected like Harry's except my hose length is really short - it is just enough for the boost controller to sit above that coolant pipe - ie less than 2 inches of hose for each side of the device - to the point where the barbed connections are only separated by 1cm of pipe. Keeping the hoses shorter may theoretically improve boost control. Certiainly my car is an absolute flying machine with this gizmo on!

iain atkins

HarryBoy,

Could you possibly post a bigger picture, showing all pipework and solenoids etc.

Cheers



Iain

john banks

Harry, another thing, not meaning to criticise - we are all learning this together and your picture is ace, but how about a hose clamp at the Dawes input. This and the turbo nipples will see very high pressure and I have had a hose fly off mounted like yours on the turbo nipple without a clamp relying on friction. When it is hot note how mobile it is!

And that's another hint, try fitting it before the car has fully cooled down. The hoses can be pushed to the hilt more easily and should stay on better.

HarryBoy

John,

Point taken. However that hose without the clamp is on really tight! I mean I tried to remove it when the tube was warm and I could not shift it, infact I have just tried it again after my test runs this lunch time and it's not going to move! But for piece-of-mind I'll take your advice and clamp it! Thankyou.

Harry

john banks

I want to know your lambda voltages! What boost at part throttle 3000rpm do you need to show 840,860,880mV or whatever?

HarryBoy

John, my findings on the Dawes.......

"Does it control boost better than the factory system?"

For my MY00, yes. The boost rises much quicker than before and is held for longer. There is very little overshoot from the desired setting, 1PSI at most. Throttle response is way better, low down torque is better, around town the car is more like a normally aspirated one.

"On a UK car does the boost still drop at the top end? (is this a function of the small turbo or does the ECU do it?)"

Yes, I have mine set to 15PSI and as revs approach 5K it starts to drop off by around 1psi or so, I think this is a function of the TD04 running out of steam.......

"Any downsides?"

Yes. The fuel consumption is worse! (I wonder why!!??)

Also, the fueling on my car seems to be OK, at part throttle/full boost or WOT/full boost/high RPM one or both of the 2 top LED's on the AFR are on, indicating 8-10% CO.

Harry

GavinP

..but is it worth the money ?

Thanks

Gavin

john banks

I wondered why we went to this post - see the date was 18 OCTOBER before I ordered a Dawes. Should we go back to the how to fit thread?

Good to hear your lambda are good Harry.

HarryBoy

Hi John,

I get full boost (15PSI) at approx 3000/3200 RPM, 8/10% CO (880/890mV) which is probably on the rich side?

Harry

mutant_matt

John,

You mention that the PPP fuel cut is at 19.3PSI. Any idea what the standard MY00 ECU cut is at?

Matt

iain atkins

Matt,

1.2 bar / 17.4psi or there abouts. I take it you've bought a MBC then?

Cheers



Iain

mutant_matt

Ian,

17.391PSI then

In some of the recent cold weather my almost standard car has been peaking at 1.2 and holding 1.0 to 1.1bar (17.391, 14.493 and 15.942 respectively ) and was wondering where the cutout is as I've yet to hit it.

I haven't made up my mind what route I'll be going down for ECU and/or Boost control yet but I've got to get my LambdaLink and Knocklink 1st (waiting for the new SM remote ones).

Matt

Nimbus

OK chaps,

I'm half convinced to buy one of these direct as I missed the group buy. My only concern is any potential damage I could do after fitting one of these. So, for a novice to this sort of thing, what's my best approach in making sure I protect my engine from any unpleasantness?

I hear talk of boost pressure and fule/air levels, and the importance of making sure these are within limits, but how can I check these? I have a standardish (Powerflow de-cat centre and backbox) MY95 with no additional guages.

Is there somewhere I can take the car to get it checked out after fitting and measure Boost, F/A etc?


(Reply like you're talking to a technical idiot ).

Cheers

HarryBoy

Ian,

Not sure if a picture of the solenoids will help bu this is the bit of tube you need to remove!

http://www.geocities.com/harryboy_scooby

The boost solenoid is #1 in this picture. #2 and #3 remain 'in-circuit' no need to touch them.



Harry



[Edited by HarryBoy - 2/7/2002 6:04:45 PM]

john banks

Nimbus you could take it to a rolling road or get hold of or make a Lambda Link. The main thing on Scoobies with these devices seems to be the high boost they make on part throttle and possible lean running. Mine has no such trouble, neither does Harry's from the sound of it...

Certainly today going to pick up some electronic bits, the car was a raving beast! When I had the car unmodified, there was no turbo action until 2500rpm. Now there is 10PSI boost at 2200rpm and 17 PSI at 2500rpm. In other words floor it in 5th at 55 and it flies and from under 50 in 5th the car is on boost 15mph earlier than before. Now from 2000-2500rpm it feels like my wife's 3.0l V6. From 2500rpm it just moves like nothing else. This makes a huge difference in every day driving. I love this little TD04, and I'm not changing for big BHP because this sort of turbo response and where it is in the rev range is fantastic. 4th gear pulls briskly from 35mph now. Great!

HarryBoy

17PSI at 2500rpm!

Heck, that's got to feel fast!

What gear is that in John?

Harry

john banks

4th or 5th. I am decatted with induction kit. It flies. Even though the boost doesn't get any higher at 3000rpm it feels faster still.

HarryBoy

I feel so inadequate!

The PPP ECU works then......

PS. the fuel cut does work, I got it on the drive home and my gauge under reads!

Luke

HarryBoy
Any chance of a few more detailed photos?

Luke

ANYONE with a clue on how to fit a DD to a standard UK legacy 93/94
with the intercooler inline with the bulkhead.

GavinP

Luke,

I appreciate that you would like some pictures of early models but have you looked at your car in detail ?

The setup is VERY similar to the later model - the only differences are the hose connections to the turbo nipple and wastegate solenoid are in a VERY slightly different place!
Looking at the turbo on my car compared to Harry's picture, there
is virtually no difference.

The plumbing is much simpler than the later models - no T pieces or cutting of hoses at all! (see my earlier post).

If you have no joy, I'll try to take some more pictures at the weekend (it's dark at the mo! ) but I promise you that you won't need them....

Thanks

Gavin