What bottom end can i use to replace a MY99 UK turbo bottom end?
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What bottom end can i use to replace a MY99 UK turbo bottom end?
My mates engine on his MY99 UK Turbo is smoking are there any other bottom ends from different versions that i can replace it with?
I presuming there's little difference between models and versions i.e WRX/STI and Classic/Newage
Craig
I presuming there's little difference between models and versions i.e WRX/STI and Classic/Newage
Craig
Last edited by Heple; 01 February 2006 at 09:32 AM.
#4
Hmmm tricky, probably a new age Sti 7 or 8, still fitted with forged pistons but with the newer semi-closed deck block
It shouldn't need a re-map once rebuilt to run, but, why did it fail, do other parts need replacing? A re-map would allow you to make better use of the uprated components though
If the bearings have died then the whole engine will need to be completely stripped and cleaned, especially any parts being reused (ie heads, turbo etc) to ensure there is no bearing material remaining.
TBH, finding a good second hand short engine is going to be more difficult that finding a complete one, and there probably won't be much in it price wise...shame Alan Bell has already sold his short engine, that would have been ideal
It shouldn't need a re-map once rebuilt to run, but, why did it fail, do other parts need replacing? A re-map would allow you to make better use of the uprated components though
If the bearings have died then the whole engine will need to be completely stripped and cleaned, especially any parts being reused (ie heads, turbo etc) to ensure there is no bearing material remaining.
TBH, finding a good second hand short engine is going to be more difficult that finding a complete one, and there probably won't be much in it price wise...shame Alan Bell has already sold his short engine, that would have been ideal
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I will proberly buy a complete engine.
The car was modded when he bought it and i believe it is this that has caused the problems. I believe it has a melted piston i would advise him to Re-Map i was just concerned with whether i could fire it up on the existing ECU setup to begin with.
As i understand, swapping the complete engine would also involve swapping the ECU and wiring aswell so i was going to just swap the bottom ends so that we could keep the original ECU.
Craig
The car was modded when he bought it and i believe it is this that has caused the problems. I believe it has a melted piston i would advise him to Re-Map i was just concerned with whether i could fire it up on the existing ECU setup to begin with.
As i understand, swapping the complete engine would also involve swapping the ECU and wiring aswell so i was going to just swap the bottom ends so that we could keep the original ECU.
Craig
Last edited by Heple; 29 January 2006 at 03:58 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by Heple
As i understand, swapping the complete engine would also involve swapping the ECU and wiring aswell so i was going to just swap the bottom ends so that we could keep the original ECU.
Fitting a complete engine with ancileries from an earlier car or a later new-age would be more of a challenge and would require wiring and ecu replacement
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So it looks like either:
1) Source a MY99/00 Complete engine
2) Source another model engine and change the blocks.
3) Source another model engine and ECU and rewire the engine loom.
Cheers for the info
Craig
1) Source a MY99/00 Complete engine
2) Source another model engine and change the blocks.
3) Source another model engine and ECU and rewire the engine loom.
Cheers for the info
Craig
Last edited by Heple; 29 January 2006 at 04:31 PM.
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Craig, Call me at the office tomorrow and l'll spell out the options for you - no obligation.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
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Just spoke to my mate he said the car was overfilled with oil and started smoking. The oil was then drained and filled correctly but the car continued to smoke the car idles spot on and is showing no engine check light.
What do you think the likely damage is?
Craig
What do you think the likely damage is?
Craig
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the boost solenoid wouldnt cause the car to smoke, just may cause boosting issues with the car having been overfilled with oil as oil can contaminate it.
Does the car rev freely when stationary or is/are there any misfires or any rough running?
If it does and it still smokes, what colour smoke is it? If it has been overfilled then there will probably be oil deposits in the intercooler which could be getting burnt during the combustion process and thus giving the smoke.
Does the car rev freely when stationary or is/are there any misfires or any rough running?
If it does and it still smokes, what colour smoke is it? If it has been overfilled then there will probably be oil deposits in the intercooler which could be getting burnt during the combustion process and thus giving the smoke.
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To be honest i didnt rev it up as i wasnt sure what damage was done and i didnt want to make it worse. It seemed to run perfectly it just smoked there is a lineing of oil in the tailpipe.
I will try and find out some more information tonight. Will try and drive it a little to see how it feels. Should be easy to tell as i also have a MY99 UK Turbo.
Do you think there could be any issue's with the turbo. I believe the TD04 is very strong.
Craig
I will try and find out some more information tonight. Will try and drive it a little to see how it feels. Should be easy to tell as i also have a MY99 UK Turbo.
Do you think there could be any issue's with the turbo. I believe the TD04 is very strong.
Craig
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Just had a proper look tonight the car is knocking quite badly and theres plenty of smoke cumming out of the back.
Defo need a new block.
Craig
Defo need a new block.
Craig
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take the plugs out and check the condition of them. It can give a clue as to why it has destroyed itself, ie overfuelling, running lean etc. If you replace the bottom end then you need to solve why it happened in the first place so as not to get a repeat.
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Yeah i think a re-map will be in order or at least a check. Strange really its only had PPP on it, i thought that was pretty reliable.
I think it may of happenned as a result of being serviced by a general (non-specialist) garage. I'll bet they didnt disconnect the crank sensor to charge the system before starting it.
Thanks for your help.
Craig
I think it may of happenned as a result of being serviced by a general (non-specialist) garage. I'll bet they didnt disconnect the crank sensor to charge the system before starting it.
Thanks for your help.
Craig
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If i was to change the blocks would i get issues with changing between phase 1 and phase 2 with regards the cambelt tensioner as i know these are different.
Actually (Just had a re-think....). I would probably just use the phase 1 tensioner wouldn't I ?
Craig
Actually (Just had a re-think....). I would probably just use the phase 1 tensioner wouldn't I ?
Craig
Last edited by Heple; 02 February 2006 at 10:48 AM.
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sorry to hear about your mates misfortune, 3 weeks ago mine developed 'the knock' after weighing up all the options i decided it was better value for money to go to API and have the rebuild.
i was going to save money and put a different lump in, but how long will that last? 2years? 2miles? when you come to sell it, the engine number and chassis number wont tie in, which MAY make potential buyers weary.
by having the rebuild its a brand new engine (pretty much) with a warranty, so at least you then know its history.
*just my 2pence
i was going to save money and put a different lump in, but how long will that last? 2years? 2miles? when you come to sell it, the engine number and chassis number wont tie in, which MAY make potential buyers weary.
by having the rebuild its a brand new engine (pretty much) with a warranty, so at least you then know its history.
*just my 2pence
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Originally Posted by Heple
Yeah i think a re-map will be in order or at least a check. Strange really its only had PPP on it, i thought that was pretty reliable.
I think it may of happenned as a result of being serviced by a general (non-specialist) garage. I'll bet they didnt disconnect the crank sensor to charge the system before starting it.
Thanks for your help.
Craig
I think it may of happenned as a result of being serviced by a general (non-specialist) garage. I'll bet they didnt disconnect the crank sensor to charge the system before starting it.
Thanks for your help.
Craig
Did your friend contact the garage when he found out it had been overfilled? If so is there any chance they can foot some of the bill?
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Ha chances,
They just laughed at him. They checked the car and told him that he needed a new knock sensor ?????
More like a knock remover if you ask me.
But he's learnt a lesson service it yourself or use a specialist garage.
Craig
They just laughed at him. They checked the car and told him that he needed a new knock sensor ?????
More like a knock remover if you ask me.
But he's learnt a lesson service it yourself or use a specialist garage.
Craig
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UPDATE
-------
A new block was sourced from a MY98 WRX from an fellow scoobynetter who upgraded to a 2.5 block.
It still felt like a risk even though we were assured the block was ok. Anyway we took the plunge and after a day of removing the engine, swapping the short motors and refitting the engine everything turned out fine.
The new motor fired up spot on with no issues other than a knackered cambelt tensioner that was sorted immediately.
Just hope it lasts - touch wood
Total cost £400.
Thanks for all your advice it was all much appreciated.
Craig
-------
A new block was sourced from a MY98 WRX from an fellow scoobynetter who upgraded to a 2.5 block.
It still felt like a risk even though we were assured the block was ok. Anyway we took the plunge and after a day of removing the engine, swapping the short motors and refitting the engine everything turned out fine.
The new motor fired up spot on with no issues other than a knackered cambelt tensioner that was sorted immediately.
Just hope it lasts - touch wood
Total cost £400.
Thanks for all your advice it was all much appreciated.
Craig
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