doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Hi.

Ive come accross a 4.1 rear diff for sale. Can anyone tell me what car theyre from? I pressume its a plated diff just like the rest of them. Any idea on how much i should be paying? Looking to change my type r ratios.

Cheers,
Doug.

911

My Sti v3 is a 4.11 diff and it is a viscous unit, not plated.
I think the RA Sti was plated.

I think a fair price is about £50 to £100 privately.

Hope that helps.

For more data try the Haynes Tuning/Ownership book from the bigger Halfords, all the detail you need is in the back.
Remember you need to change the front diff too!! (if the box is not already a '4.11')

Graham

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Cheers Graham.

The cars not being used as a daily drive now and intentions are to prep it for hillclimbing/sprints and the odd occasional weekend drive. 4.1 is going for £100 but dont know what condition its in or if plated or viscous. Presume you changed the front to a Quaffe unit? Have you chaged the centre diff and can you still use the dccd if you do?

Any knowledge much appreciated.

Cheers,
Doug.

P.s. What change to class reg's are being made for next year?

John Stevenson

Doug, judging by your location I'm guessing you'd be doing the Scottish venues/championship. The championship Regs are very different to blue Book/english regs.

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Well, to start off with, but im moving back to the uk in 2 years so should be available to compete in the national. Having done it with mini's before, i dont want to keep upgrading parts as it becomes v.expensive! Think the best policy is to cough up at the start to put you straight in at a competative level.

John Stevenson

Might we see you at Alford/Doune/Golspie in the nextmonth or so then ? What are you trying to achieve by changing the type R gearing ?
If you need a copy of the Scottish Regs I can e-mail them to you, I would expect very little changes to them for next year.

P.S. If you don't take that Diff, can you hook me up with whomever is selling it ?

cheers ---john---

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Just fancied playing about with the gearing to see what difference it will make. Its always handy to have a couple of different ratios sitting in the garage.

Diff is on ebay of all places!

Doug.

P.S. Missed the other weekend (13th/14th) by a day! Had to fly back to Germany for work on the Monday! Will be back at the start of Oct for two weeks but dont suppose there will be much going on in the hillclimb calender then. Dont suppose you compete in a white scoob? (RA maybe?)

911

Yes, very true. Be very aware of the regs for local Championships in 'our' classes as there is a bit of focus in England at the moment.

The UK Blue Book is very prescriptive in detail, pity the regs are not enforced so well.

If not already printed, look-out for Roll cages and tyres, and the use of 'production' and 'modified production'.
Even trim items can change your class!

As to the box:

I am running stock Sri v3 transmission having tried an RA trans with 4.44 diffs.

Anything transmission is expensive and you need a strong engine to justify it all (imho), but John is more qualified than me on that score....

Graham.

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

If memory serves me right, if its raod legal then its production. If its on slicks, no lights, reverse gear etc then its modified and your running with the big boys in modified production. Even so, its all down to what championship youre competing in and local event rules. Got the blue bible in the cupboard but its out of date by a few years now.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

911

That's about right.
With my car i have 2 choices:
List 1A tyres, no roll cage = production.
In my Championships there are NO classes for Production! (only Modified)

List 1A/1B/Slicks and all-out preparation = modified
This is the only class in the Champs thus the one to go in, so you need to join them!

I drive the car to and from all events (it is technically a Roadgoing Modified Production Car Class), so need lights etc.

I don't want to trailer the car and all that messing about/expense, so caught out really as the class specs stand.

Graham.

ticky

Best way to check is to remove the backing cover on the diff & read the numbers on the large crown wheel.
37.9= 4.11diff
39.10= 3.9diff
39.11= 3.545diff
40.9=4.44diff

I check mine today after travelling some 100 odd miles to collect it.
Made a mistake not checking it whilst there thinking its from similar year import car to mine. It turned out to be 3.9diff, but wanted a 4.11?

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Any idea of cost for front cw/p's? Whats the options with the diff's? Modena, Quaife, Cusco etc?

Graham, what clutch/flywheel are you running with? (and for how long?)

John Stevenson

Doug, my car is a red RA, the white one is as slow as a week in the Jail

---john---

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

Ah well, the last time my old man was at Alford, (2nd meet in the year??), there were 2xwhite scoobs. One which you could go get a burger and a cup of tea in the time it took to get to the 1st corner and one you missed if you bent down to tie your shoe laces.

Diff is from a forrester.

Doug.

911

Running an AP organic and a stock flywheel.
These have been in the car for 2 full hill climb seasons = 100+ drag starts and 6k road mile (I drive like a granny on the road)

1st year the engine was 214 bhp/280 lbft and this year it is about 380bhp/320 lbft.

My tyres are super soft Kumho V70's (16''). The pronounced ability to spin the wheels saves the trans i think on impact starts, so fancy locking diffs are probably going to add to the stress as you get traction.
Oh, best 64ft marker time is 2.03 in the dry, 2.19 in the wet.

Enough of the boasting, got to drive like a madman this weekend to get 2nd, let alone first. All the bullies are there! (EVO's)

Graham.