MY00 mod advice...
Hi all, had my MY00 classic for 2 years now and have prided myself in pretty much keeping it as true to standard form as possible. All it currently has is a K&N panel filter and a backbox. When I bought it there was an induction kit and DV both of which I removed and the car felt noticeably better straight away.
I'm most probably going to change it next year but now that the extended warranty I took has expired I've been considering the option of a mod or two that will increase power and driveability for its final year with me!
Not looking to spend fortunes as I'm selling it next year and not interested in de-catting, downpipes, basically anything that would make it noisier than it currently is! The backbox gives off a lovely burble at present!
So is there anything that people would suggest? I have no idea personally but was thinking of perhaps just an ECU change, a PPP chip or similar?
Anyway thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions...!
Dan.
I'm most probably going to change it next year but now that the extended warranty I took has expired I've been considering the option of a mod or two that will increase power and driveability for its final year with me!
Not looking to spend fortunes as I'm selling it next year and not interested in de-catting, downpipes, basically anything that would make it noisier than it currently is! The backbox gives off a lovely burble at present!
So is there anything that people would suggest? I have no idea personally but was thinking of perhaps just an ECU change, a PPP chip or similar?
Anyway thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions...!
Dan.
If you're not interested in a de-cat etc. and you already have K&N then there's little you can do. Maybe a re-map as Floyd said.
I would spend the money on handling. Rear ARB, Eibachs, bumpsteer with decent geometry.
I would spend the money on handling. Rear ARB, Eibachs, bumpsteer with decent geometry.
Originally Posted by Floyd
Just get a TEK3, panel filter and be done with it.
F
F
Last edited by micared; Aug 25, 2005 at 09:56 AM.
TEK3 ( & de-cat ) + if you havent already at least get a 22mm adjustable rear ARB and some decent droplinks - The difference to the handling is unbelievable... has to be the best VFM mod you can do !
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Originally Posted by Dan J
Hi all, had my MY00 classic for 2 years now and have prided myself in pretty much keeping it as true to standard form as possible. All it currently has is a K&N panel filter and a backbox. When I bought it there was an induction kit and DV both of which I removed and the car felt noticeably better straight away.
I'm most probably going to change it next year but now that the extended warranty I took has expired I've been considering the option of a mod or two that will increase power and driveability for its final year with me!
Not looking to spend fortunes as I'm selling it next year and not interested in de-catting, downpipes, basically anything that would make it noisier than it currently is! The backbox gives off a lovely burble at present!
So is there anything that people would suggest? I have no idea personally but was thinking of perhaps just an ECU change, a PPP chip or similar?
Anyway thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions...!
Dan.
I'm most probably going to change it next year but now that the extended warranty I took has expired I've been considering the option of a mod or two that will increase power and driveability for its final year with me!
Not looking to spend fortunes as I'm selling it next year and not interested in de-catting, downpipes, basically anything that would make it noisier than it currently is! The backbox gives off a lovely burble at present!
So is there anything that people would suggest? I have no idea personally but was thinking of perhaps just an ECU change, a PPP chip or similar?
Anyway thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions...!
Dan.
NS04
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Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
An ECU remap is most expensive component of most people first forays into tuning (about £700).
NS04
NS04
Should be £50 tops!!
Pete
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Originally Posted by pslewis
Always amazes me why a geek with a laptop costs so much money when all he is doing is fiddling with the data set????
Should be £50 tops!!
Pete
Should be £50 tops!!
Pete
Overheads, overheads!!

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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
Easy Pete, they have to pay for the plasters that hold their NHS specs together, and their 8 mpeg broadband connections so, upon returning home, they can download 1 gig of rude stuff off the net!
Overheads, overheads!!
NS04
Overheads, overheads!!

NS04
Hi thanks for the replies! Brakes wise I'm fine as I have Brembo 4pots on from an old group buy. It's also been over to Powerstation and had the bumpsteer done.
Wasn't thinking of spending as much as £700 when I'm thinking of changing it next year, doesn't really add up value for money wise, plus seems you only reap the real benefits from that with a de-cat too.
Looks like I might have to stop being a little greedy here and stick with things as they are! Shame...
Wasn't thinking of spending as much as £700 when I'm thinking of changing it next year, doesn't really add up value for money wise, plus seems you only reap the real benefits from that with a de-cat too.
Looks like I might have to stop being a little greedy here and stick with things as they are! Shame...
Originally Posted by pslewis
Always amazes me why a geek with a laptop costs so much money when all he is doing is fiddling with the data set????
Should be £50 tops!!
Pete
Should be £50 tops!!
Pete
My criteria was much the same as yours for my MY99. I had a just backbox for the first year, but last year I bought a decat mid section and a prodrive ECU. The difference was quite noticeable (although not dramatic) - the car felt much punchier in the mid range and a little more eager to rev. Much nicer to use in normal A or B road driving conditions - Think it cost me about £350 off of here.
Ecutek re-map (and a different backbox you already have) will make a noticeable difference, it will also "feel" much faster with the extra torque.
Thats all I had done to my Turbo and I loved it. The new owner who purchased it even commented on how much more urgency and driveability the car had about it compared to the non re-mapped cars he had driven.
When it comes to sale time, you could always sell it on here, as has been said for approx £350 and take a standard ECU in exchange.
£350 for a years more enjoyment will be worth it. Only trouble is, you'll just wish you'd have done it sooner
Thats all I had done to my Turbo and I loved it. The new owner who purchased it even commented on how much more urgency and driveability the car had about it compared to the non re-mapped cars he had driven.
When it comes to sale time, you could always sell it on here, as has been said for approx £350 and take a standard ECU in exchange.
£350 for a years more enjoyment will be worth it. Only trouble is, you'll just wish you'd have done it sooner
Originally Posted by Graz
Actually I think you will find a significant part of the cost is the ECUTek software license payment for each ECU mapped, not just the mappers time and effort 

Pete
If the suspension's standard, my vote is for ARBs and droplinks, front and back. Take advice on what bar sizes to go for.
Power wise, ported headers, de-cat the middle pipe with a resonated centre section, keep the downpipe cat. and the BB as you like it.
Then consider a remap.
J.
Power wise, ported headers, de-cat the middle pipe with a resonated centre section, keep the downpipe cat. and the BB as you like it.
Then consider a remap.
J.
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