turbo dad

having problems with my driveshafts and when replacing these noticed that the gear box casing was very hot to touch, 60 deg c . is this a normal temp?
gone through 4 driveshafts in a couple of weeks and the inner cv joint is always very hot

Pavlo

gearbox will get hot, it's bolted firmly to the engine, and it has it's own power losses associated with it. But perhaps your driveshaft problem is something else (other than just shafts).

turbo dad

been using shaftec reconned shafts , have now put on 2 brand new subaru oem shafts, hope that solves the problem.
just looking for reasons for so many failures , hope it is down to the remanufactured items and not some other problem. gear changes feels fine , no crunching , dumped the oil ,looked very clean and no bits on the sump plug.no diff whine or any other problems i know about
both oem and shaftec inner joints get very hot,thought this might be the reason for failure,as the grease had all but gone in the inner joints we removed

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Is the car free wheeling OK or does the transmission seem tight? In normal operation 60 deg C is on the top side of what I would expect.

turbo dad

car free wheeling fine .
noise started again yesterday ,30 miles after new shafts .
you can put the car full lock at very slow speed and no noise , start increasing speed slightly the ticky , clicky noise returns . when going say round a roundabout on slight lock, it starts to appears under load, on or off the throttle.
everyone thats heard the noise says cv joints right away, but i have to rule them out now after 2 outers and 3 sets of shafts . but the noise does dissapear for a day when new shafts have been fitted

Pavlo

I wonder if there is a problem with an output bearing on the box, or maybe a wheel bearing?

Paul

Fuzz

why does it kepe eating shafts though??
Perhaps you have a bent suspension arm which is stressing the CV joints.

turbo dad

no play in wheel bearings , unsure what the output bearing is?
had 4 wheel laser aligment done , everything seems true and straight

Pavlo

output bearing of front diff on the gearbox.

you have checked the oil level on the gearbox haven't you?

turbo dad

is this where the driveshaft splines go into the gearbox/diff?
gearbox level was good , drained oil no bits and clean. replaced with new oil

turbo dad

Gearbox casing temperature was up to 93 deg C after a hard drive. (Using IR thermometer). I was asked to try to get the car rolling in 1st gear , feet of clutch and throttle and turn to full lock to see if the car stalled , it was fine ,no rev drop .Also start reversing slowly on full lock then disengage the clutch and if this stops the car , again fine free wheels fine. Both tests to see if the problems with front/centre diff.
Need to nail his on the head before I spend any more cash.
After taking advice, the garage is suggesting replacing both wheel bearings and hub flanges at parts only cost of over £500!! !
£155 flange, £82 bearing + vat, must be Subaru parts, can you get cheaper/non OEM?
Would hub flange damage be apparent upon removing bearings?
have to rule out drive shafts now

Fuzz

kin hell.. on the temp !!!! (although I've never measured mine I dodn't expect it to be that fooking hot!)
Time for a second opinion elsewhere I think, sounds like you are being stitched up for parts you might not require.

Which end of the driveshaft is getting shagged???

Andy

turbo dad

The only parts I have been charged for are 2 reconditioned shafts and labour. Brand new OEM shafts now fitted. No other parts or labour have been charged for, abeit the shafts did not fix the problem.

When noise reappeared ,went to garage , reckoned shafts lost the inner boot and grease, so thought that failure was down to faulty remanufacturing, replaced with same for noise to come back 2 days later. Presumed it was the faulty reconed shafts again so fitted new Subaru OEM shafts .noise back 2 days later? So must rule out the shafts?

Fuzz

I think it would be best if you gritted your teeth over the noise for a while and wait until it gets worse, then you can identify properly the cause of the noise.

Was there definite proof that the shafts that were replaced wer fubar'd???
(other than just the fact the noise had gone for a couple of days)


Andy