How to change clutch ??????
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How to change clutch ??????
Any one give us rough how to change clutch ? Things to look out for and such ? I`ve got use of a proper garage with 4 post ramp and engine hoist. I`ve heard its easier to take out engine , Can anyone advise ?
Thanx White Un
Thanx White Un
#2
Originally Posted by White-Un
Any one give us rough how to change clutch ? Things to look out for and such ? I`ve got use of a proper garage with 4 post ramp and engine hoist. I`ve heard its easier to take out engine , Can anyone advise ?
Thanx White Un
Thanx White Un
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Originally Posted by whitescooby 330
mate its easy just take the box of if you need help let me know
Thanx White Un
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I might have missed a few things off the list, but here goes...
Jack up car and put onto 4 axle stands (the higher the better) or a ramp
Disconnect battery
Drain box oil
Remove Intercooler and starter motor.
Remove clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork spring.
Undo Hex plug under starter - in the side of the gearbox casing (10mm Allen Key)
Withdraw Clutch fork pivot pin, by screwing an M6 bolt into it.
Pull the clutch fork up, to disengage from release bearing.
Disconnect prop and gear linkage and gearbox cradle
Drift out the 2 roll pins in the front inner CVs with a straight punch
Remove the remainder of the bellhousing bolts - The bottom 2 are nuts on studs. It helps if you can remove the studs too
You may need to put a jack of some sort under the box and use a couple of prybars to split the engine from the box
Whilst the box is hanging down but still attached to the engine, you should be able to push it to one side enough to part the inner CV from the stub axle on the other side. Then do the same for the other side.
Remove gearbox
Simple
Putting the box back can be a bit of a biatch. - I put a 6 speeder into my car single handedly on my Mum's gravel drive. - As you can probably imagine, there was a lot of colourful language being used whilst doing that job
It can help it you jack the front of the engine up a bit, giving you a better angle to remove and replace the box.
Richard
Jack up car and put onto 4 axle stands (the higher the better) or a ramp
Disconnect battery
Drain box oil
Remove Intercooler and starter motor.
Remove clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork spring.
Undo Hex plug under starter - in the side of the gearbox casing (10mm Allen Key)
Withdraw Clutch fork pivot pin, by screwing an M6 bolt into it.
Pull the clutch fork up, to disengage from release bearing.
Disconnect prop and gear linkage and gearbox cradle
Drift out the 2 roll pins in the front inner CVs with a straight punch
Remove the remainder of the bellhousing bolts - The bottom 2 are nuts on studs. It helps if you can remove the studs too
You may need to put a jack of some sort under the box and use a couple of prybars to split the engine from the box
Whilst the box is hanging down but still attached to the engine, you should be able to push it to one side enough to part the inner CV from the stub axle on the other side. Then do the same for the other side.
Remove gearbox
Simple
Putting the box back can be a bit of a biatch. - I put a 6 speeder into my car single handedly on my Mum's gravel drive. - As you can probably imagine, there was a lot of colourful language being used whilst doing that job
It can help it you jack the front of the engine up a bit, giving you a better angle to remove and replace the box.
Richard
Last edited by FB Tuning; 04 May 2005 at 12:14 PM.
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I read somewhere that you need to take the front antiroll bar links off? This maybe a load of cr@p but but when I ........ well, we......... ok, Gossy changed mine we ended up taking the hub carriers of the strut to get the driveshafts out.
Possibly by removing the ARB links the suspension can drop more and you don't have to do the "push this side, pull that side" that Richard was on about, or even worse take it all apart like I did!!
Possibly by removing the ARB links the suspension can drop more and you don't have to do the "push this side, pull that side" that Richard was on about, or even worse take it all apart like I did!!
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When i took the 5 speeder out, just pushing the back of the box to the side gave enough room to get the CV off the stub.
Although when i put the 6 back in, I had to undo the ARB Link and the 19mm bolt at the front of the wishbone to drop the wishbone and swing the hub out enough to put the CV back on. - The 6 speeder was just too bloody heavy to move
Richard
Although when i put the 6 back in, I had to undo the ARB Link and the 19mm bolt at the front of the wishbone to drop the wishbone and swing the hub out enough to put the CV back on. - The 6 speeder was just too bloody heavy to move
Richard
Last edited by FB Tuning; 04 May 2005 at 01:06 PM.
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