any ideas what this might be
as you select 5th i get a click
above 60 dificult to get in
all other gears ok and no noise
the car is a w reg 2000 turbo with 40 000 miles
anyone else had this.... please...

 

probably the last bolt which comes lose behind fifth gear.
Happens quite often. Don't drive to long with it and have it checked otherwise you'll have a good excuse to buy a 6 speed

 

My type R does this too, is it an easy thing to get checked?

I'm sure I heard once that it's just a nut that comes loose, but you need to get right inside the gearbox to adjust it?

 

you must take of the tail (?) of the box to see and adjust.
If the bolt comes lose you have the danger that the 5th doesn't stay where it should with breaking as a result of that.

 

A picture says more than a thousand words...


This is from when I built the PPG dog, what you see is the stock tranny, with the transfer casing (the rear bit) removed - the upper shaft has a large nut in the rear end, this has managed to come loose on some boxes, and will allow the entire package containging the driven 5th gear, baulk rings and hubs to move forwards/backwards.

Symptoms are moving gear lever (forwards and backwards) in accel/decel in 5th, 5th popping out, problems selecting the gear, etc.

The solution is to have the transfer case removed, and the nut tightened (it's a good idea to have the gears, and synchro components checked for damage - and the actual nut replaced).

All this can be done with the gearbox still on the car (I have done it myself on several boxes).

Kind regards!

/J

 

<right click - save as>

Cheers, thanks for the pic.

That sounds like what's wrong with mine, though I don't get the gearstick movement or jumping out of 5th. I just get a bit of a crunch when selecting 5th under moderate/high loading, normal driving it behaves perfectly.

I'll get Powerstation to have a look when it next goes in for a service....

 

You're welcome!

A crunch on high rpm shifting would be a worn baulk ring (cheap part), and would be easily replaced with the box still on the car as well.

/J

 

cheers lads gr8t help

 

Secretagentman....

I am about to take the back off my gearbox to do the nut thing,... i got a new fifth gear nut from Graham Goode, but it would appear to be different to the one in the picture, the thread would appear to be much bigger, and therefore the nut is slimmer than that in your pic..... what year box was that? i'm wondering if they changed at-all??? mines a my00...

 

How would you secure the shaft if you didn't have the right tool from subaru or a welded diff handy?

 

When i did mine, i had the box out, and used an old clutch plate with a bracket and a bolt to hold the input shaft tight, and then selected a gear to stop the shaft from turning,......

 

Hi this is Sam writing, Matt's brother, the noise apparently sounds pretty terminal on a 1995 RA he's looking into buying. I've already posted this on a new thread basis, but since this thread is active, i'll put it here.

The car is going for £4000 and is pretty immac. barring this gearbox problem. The noise sounds like it's coming from the diff, and 5th gear is pretty much a waste of time. The cabin control for the differential setup does not appear to function either. Bearing in mind the cost of repair, is it worth buying this car, or would it be better to source a more expesive, but faultless model?

 

ive got exactly the same problem with my turbo 2000 gearbox, what did powerstation reccomend, and how much did it cost to fix the crunchy 5th gear in the end. thanks

 

To stop the shaft turning when tightening the nut, can't you just select two gears at the same time by pushing the selector rods in, effectively locking the box?

Graham