wot oil do u lot use?
24 March 2005, 06:33 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wot oil do u lot use?
I used GTX MAGNA TEX.....Is this a good enough oil to use or would u use summit else, also i have oil changes every 2,500 miles is good enough.
my car............http://www.novaload.net/features/vie...e.php?ref=2257.
my car............http://www.novaload.net/features/vie...e.php?ref=2257.
24 March 2005, 10:26 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Somewhere in Kent, sniffing some V-Power
Posts: 15,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mobil 1 motorsport 15w50 @ £28 from halfrauds (when they have the bl**dy stuff) and 1 subaru filter+sump plug washer @ £5 from dealer.
Change every 3k (my98 sti 4, standard except cat back zorst)
Change every 3k (my98 sti 4, standard except cat back zorst)
26 March 2005, 01:29 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by corradoboy
Use Millers, Motul 300V or Silkolene ProS. You could do much worse than contacting Simon (oilman) for a price. Order 4x 5l a time with next day delivery 
2.5k is a bit extreme. If you use a quality oil, 5k changes should be adequate.
2.5k is a bit extreme. If you use a quality oil, 5k changes should be adequate.
26 March 2005, 05:01 PM
#6
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by scooby123
I used GTX MAGNA TEX.....Is this a good enough oil to use or would u use summit else, also i have oil changes every 2,500 miles is good enough.
Trending Topics
26 March 2005, 05:26 PM
#9
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Motul 300V Competition as developed by Prodrive with Motul for the Boxer engine. Subaru4U in Thatcham do it for reasonable money as Len keeps a big drum of it on site.
DR
DR
29 March 2005, 08:55 PM
#14
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My dealer says that Subaru uk/International motors have instructed them via a buletin not to use any Fully synthetic oil in an Impreza...I went along with Motul 10/40 and Mobil 15/50 for service...choice of oil incase they were quibling grade...they wouldn't fit either....
29 March 2005, 09:03 PM
#17
The burning question is..............why?
When synthetics are superior why would Subaru exclude the use of them? It simply does not make sense unless the following answers are given:
Why?
What do they mean by synthetics? Group III, IV or V?
Anyone fancy emailing Subaru UK?
Cheers
Simon
When synthetics are superior why would Subaru exclude the use of them? It simply does not make sense unless the following answers are given:
Why?
What do they mean by synthetics? Group III, IV or V?
Anyone fancy emailing Subaru UK?
Cheers
Simon
29 March 2005, 09:08 PM
#18
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dealer said that there had been a thread on one of the internet forums that was about oil which had lead to some subaru or IM representative JOINING IN and stating that synthetics were not to be used...and that Mobil 1 was singled out as a absolute no no...I tried to get them to use my oil....no dice...I'd love to know where Subaru/IM actually do stand on this...Does anyone recall such a thread anywhere...I've searched and so far no luck...next step is to ring IM....
30 March 2005, 08:51 AM
#22
Again I must stress that the word "synthetic" must be defined!
It is now so widely used that it could be hydrocracked petroleum oil, poly alpha olefin, ester or a blend of some or all of the above. Don't forget that hydrocracked oils are not in fact synthetics at all in the true sense of the word, they are "highly refined" or "modified" mineral oils.
The statement is too sweeping and clarification must be sought.
It may be worth repeating this for those that missed it first time around:
Quote: John Rowland (Chief R&D Chemist from Silkolene)
Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”.
These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.
We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!
Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!
The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!
Unquote:
I personally don't believe a word of this "don't use synthetics" statement as it doesn't make any sense at all and has no logic or technical foundation.
Cheers
Simon
It is now so widely used that it could be hydrocracked petroleum oil, poly alpha olefin, ester or a blend of some or all of the above. Don't forget that hydrocracked oils are not in fact synthetics at all in the true sense of the word, they are "highly refined" or "modified" mineral oils.
The statement is too sweeping and clarification must be sought.
It may be worth repeating this for those that missed it first time around:
Quote: John Rowland (Chief R&D Chemist from Silkolene)
Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.
The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”.
These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.
We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!
Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?
Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.
Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.
So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!
The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.
This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!
Unquote:
I personally don't believe a word of this "don't use synthetics" statement as it doesn't make any sense at all and has no logic or technical foundation.
Cheers
Simon
30 March 2005, 09:48 AM
#23
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Posts: 18,687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by oilman
Again I must stress that the word "synthetic" must be defined!
Simon
Simon
30 March 2005, 06:23 PM
#29
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rang IM today...couldn't speak directly to Tech bod but so far the customer service guy said that 10/40 or 5/30 were ok grades as mentioned in the manual...and that fully synthetic wasn't a requirement of these engines...As far as the don't use Synthetic under any circumstances line....he replied that there is no need to use Synthetic according to the manual ...but there is an edict Not to use Synthetic in the H6 engine fitted to other vehicles such as Foresters...
I kept pushing him but the answer was always the same...the manual doesn't actually say you have to use a fully synth oil....
I said surely they wouldn't want to stop someone using a better oil than the ones recommended as a 'base line'..as long as the grade was suitable...he kept saying words to the effect ...'why would you want to do that'!....
Dooohhh!!!
I'm going to try to get hold of a technical bod at IM if it kills me!...
I kept pushing him but the answer was always the same...the manual doesn't actually say you have to use a fully synth oil....
I said surely they wouldn't want to stop someone using a better oil than the ones recommended as a 'base line'..as long as the grade was suitable...he kept saying words to the effect ...'why would you want to do that'!....
Dooohhh!!!
I'm going to try to get hold of a technical bod at IM if it kills me!...
31 March 2005, 09:03 AM
#30
What they are basically saying is that synthetic (remember the definition of it is important here) is an upgrade and it's personal choice.
Why wouldn't you want to put the best in your car? The evidence for synthetics is overwhelming when it comes to engine life and better protection!
At the end of the day, it's your car and if you want to do the best for the engine (which I assume is a natural thing) then use synthetics. Call it insurance if you like but repairs and rebuilds are costly and in comparison to these synthetic oil is cheap!
Cheers
Simon
Why wouldn't you want to put the best in your car? The evidence for synthetics is overwhelming when it comes to engine life and better protection!
At the end of the day, it's your car and if you want to do the best for the engine (which I assume is a natural thing) then use synthetics. Call it insurance if you like but repairs and rebuilds are costly and in comparison to these synthetic oil is cheap!
Cheers
Simon