How to build an unburstable 5 speed???
#1
How to build an unburstable 5 speed???
Not wanting to run crazy power through it or anything but how would I go about upgrading my 5 speed gearbox to deal with some abuse?
Its an sti5 with DCCD and currently has to cope with about 340bhp. Not that much I know but I've already had to replace the syncros to stop a snick into 5th and it only lasted 1000 miles before it returned. I had the retaining nut replaced at the same time so I'm prety sure it's not that.
I'd like to up the power in the near future and quarter mile and track days will feature heavily in this cars future so would rather fix it once and for all than lots of little patch up jobs.
So, what are my options? Straight cut, par gearsets, dog boxes? I understand that it's not the worst box in standard form but would appreciate any advice as to the pros and cons of these options as well as the costs I could expect.
Cheers
Its an sti5 with DCCD and currently has to cope with about 340bhp. Not that much I know but I've already had to replace the syncros to stop a snick into 5th and it only lasted 1000 miles before it returned. I had the retaining nut replaced at the same time so I'm prety sure it's not that.
I'd like to up the power in the near future and quarter mile and track days will feature heavily in this cars future so would rather fix it once and for all than lots of little patch up jobs.
So, what are my options? Straight cut, par gearsets, dog boxes? I understand that it's not the worst box in standard form but would appreciate any advice as to the pros and cons of these options as well as the costs I could expect.
Cheers
#3
For a start, what gearbox oil are you running?
PPG offer some nice kits for 5 speeds at varying levels depending upon how much your prepared to spend...
Failing that 10k would buy you a nice 5 speed kit built in a 6 speed casing that's apparently pretty strong
PPG offer some nice kits for 5 speeds at varying levels depending upon how much your prepared to spend...
Failing that 10k would buy you a nice 5 speed kit built in a 6 speed casing that's apparently pretty strong
#4
Had considered the 6 speed route but thought upgrading mine would be cheaper. That and the fact I wanted to keep the DCCD. I know it can be done without losing the DCCD but again sounds like it'll cost.
As for the oil, it was replaced when I had the syncro work doen. I trust the garage that completed the work to use the correct type/grade but don't know what it was.
Do PPG do kits for just the synros or would I be as well to upgrade the lot?
cheers
As for the oil, it was replaced when I had the syncro work doen. I trust the garage that completed the work to use the correct type/grade but don't know what it was.
Do PPG do kits for just the synros or would I be as well to upgrade the lot?
cheers
#5
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#6
I am still running a par synchro at over 500bhp and 500lbft with a dccd!
redline heavyweight shock proof gear oil and allowing it to warm up (the engine too) before giving it any stick.
redline heavyweight shock proof gear oil and allowing it to warm up (the engine too) before giving it any stick.
#7
After a little discussion we were having about Redline HSP over on 22b, John Felstead had a chat with Redline...this is a copy of his post:
As an aside I've been running Castrol Syntrax in my standard MY98 UK gearbox and it's taken some pretty heavy abuse over the years... around 350 brake and 310 lbft and several drag runs that include a 12.3 second 1/4 at Scoobyshootout
[qb] Just an update, i have been having an email chat with the guys at Redline Oil in the USA since we started discussing the oil in this thread as i wanted to get the info from the horses mouth rather than use sales brochure type info. It's been worthwhile i think.
I sent them a link to this thread a few days ago, this is how the conversation went.
Pats quote: "The Heavyweight Shockproof is very viscous. If it weren't then it wouldn't be necessary to heat up the bottles prior to pouring, unless you have a burning desire to read the entire text of "War and Peace" while you're waiting for the first bottle empty Even when hot, it is considerably more viscous than a "normal" 75W90 gear oil."
Redline's comment: "At operating temperature the ShockProof Heavy would have the fluid viscosity/drag of a 75W90."
Pats Quote: "Did you know that some gearset manufacturers will void the warranty on their gearkits if this oil is used? It's too viscous to flow up the centre oil channel and effectively lubricate the inner races nearer the front of the shaft!"
Redline's comment: "I am not aware of that, so can't comment specifically. In a synchro application the ShockProof can be too slippery for the synchros, also in a drilled main shaft the moly can centrifuge out of suspension so wouldn't be recommended. The ShockProof gear lubes are very unique and perform well in a number of very specialized applications though aren't necessarily ideal for all."
JohnF question to Redline: "Can you just confirm what you mean by "also in a drilled main shaft the moly can centrifuge out of suspension so wouldn't be recommended"
Does that mean redline shouldn¹t be used in that application or is moly referring to other conventional oils?
Also, could you comment on the statement made in that thread that redline HSP loses you noticeable acceleration/power? It¹s not something I have ever noticed.
Redline's comment: "That was referring to the moly in the ShockProof and the possibility of centrifuging it out of suspension in a drilled main shaft. The ShockProof wouldn't be recommended in a synchro application or one with a drilled main shaft.
I wouldn't expect that the ShockProof Heavy would have any more drag at operating temperature than a 75W90 viscosity gear oil."
Johnf question to Redline: "Thats interesting, I have run that oil in my impreza STi5 with standard syncros for a couple of years with no problems. I found no issues at all with syncro action on this box.
As I understand it the syncros in the Impreza boxes are designed to use thicker oils due to the front diff being in the gearbox. Do you still suggest you don’t use HSP knowing this? And if so what oil should we be using? I found a big improvement in gear selection on track using HSP with the Impreza, conventional oils generated a lot of heat which caused the syncros to get tight and baulk."
Redline's comment: "Based on the fluid called for by Subaru in their transaxle we would recommend the 75W90NS, suitable for the synchros and the differential. The ShockProof is a very unique product and performs extremely well in numerous applications, but we don't recommend it in street vehicle synchro applications."
JohnF question to Redline: "This gearbox has a plated centre and front LSD, is the oil you just suggested suitable?"
Redline's comment: "I am unfamiliar with a plated center differential.
The 75W90NS would be suitable for the transaxle and limited slip differential. What type limited slip is fitted?"
JohnF to Redline: "The front LSD is a conventional plate and ramp type LSD.
The centre diff is known as DCCD (driver controlled centre differential), it is an electrically controlled variable lock/torque split centre diff assembly that uses an electromagnet controlled clutch pack to vary the lock ratio between a fully open state (works as a normal open diff) and fully locked (works as a locked diff). In its in-between states it uses a ramp and plate arrangement to apply the % LSD effect you require.
I have attached some cut out diagrams of the unit so you can see how it is constructed."
Redline's comment: "Thanks for the info, that is quite an impressive unit. The 75W90NS would be suitable for the transaxle, in the unlikely event that you experienced chatter from the clutch type front limited slip when making a slow/tight turn then I would add a slight amount of friction modifier. You don't want the fluid to become too slippery for the synchros, I wouldn't want to add much more than 1%.
Back to me So it looks like HSP will not lose any power when up to operating temperature and in fact it has a lower coeficient of friction compared to conventional oils causing issue with syncro's. Based on this i must be a driving god as i never had problems matching my gear speeds. LOL
So it looks like HSP is a great choice for dog boxes without a drilled centre shaft, but it isnt a good option for a road syncro based box, which is what Bob was saying he found on scoobynet recently. [/qb]
I sent them a link to this thread a few days ago, this is how the conversation went.
Pats quote: "The Heavyweight Shockproof is very viscous. If it weren't then it wouldn't be necessary to heat up the bottles prior to pouring, unless you have a burning desire to read the entire text of "War and Peace" while you're waiting for the first bottle empty Even when hot, it is considerably more viscous than a "normal" 75W90 gear oil."
Redline's comment: "At operating temperature the ShockProof Heavy would have the fluid viscosity/drag of a 75W90."
Pats Quote: "Did you know that some gearset manufacturers will void the warranty on their gearkits if this oil is used? It's too viscous to flow up the centre oil channel and effectively lubricate the inner races nearer the front of the shaft!"
Redline's comment: "I am not aware of that, so can't comment specifically. In a synchro application the ShockProof can be too slippery for the synchros, also in a drilled main shaft the moly can centrifuge out of suspension so wouldn't be recommended. The ShockProof gear lubes are very unique and perform well in a number of very specialized applications though aren't necessarily ideal for all."
JohnF question to Redline: "Can you just confirm what you mean by "also in a drilled main shaft the moly can centrifuge out of suspension so wouldn't be recommended"
Does that mean redline shouldn¹t be used in that application or is moly referring to other conventional oils?
Also, could you comment on the statement made in that thread that redline HSP loses you noticeable acceleration/power? It¹s not something I have ever noticed.
Redline's comment: "That was referring to the moly in the ShockProof and the possibility of centrifuging it out of suspension in a drilled main shaft. The ShockProof wouldn't be recommended in a synchro application or one with a drilled main shaft.
I wouldn't expect that the ShockProof Heavy would have any more drag at operating temperature than a 75W90 viscosity gear oil."
Johnf question to Redline: "Thats interesting, I have run that oil in my impreza STi5 with standard syncros for a couple of years with no problems. I found no issues at all with syncro action on this box.
As I understand it the syncros in the Impreza boxes are designed to use thicker oils due to the front diff being in the gearbox. Do you still suggest you don’t use HSP knowing this? And if so what oil should we be using? I found a big improvement in gear selection on track using HSP with the Impreza, conventional oils generated a lot of heat which caused the syncros to get tight and baulk."
Redline's comment: "Based on the fluid called for by Subaru in their transaxle we would recommend the 75W90NS, suitable for the synchros and the differential. The ShockProof is a very unique product and performs extremely well in numerous applications, but we don't recommend it in street vehicle synchro applications."
JohnF question to Redline: "This gearbox has a plated centre and front LSD, is the oil you just suggested suitable?"
Redline's comment: "I am unfamiliar with a plated center differential.
The 75W90NS would be suitable for the transaxle and limited slip differential. What type limited slip is fitted?"
JohnF to Redline: "The front LSD is a conventional plate and ramp type LSD.
The centre diff is known as DCCD (driver controlled centre differential), it is an electrically controlled variable lock/torque split centre diff assembly that uses an electromagnet controlled clutch pack to vary the lock ratio between a fully open state (works as a normal open diff) and fully locked (works as a locked diff). In its in-between states it uses a ramp and plate arrangement to apply the % LSD effect you require.
I have attached some cut out diagrams of the unit so you can see how it is constructed."
Redline's comment: "Thanks for the info, that is quite an impressive unit. The 75W90NS would be suitable for the transaxle, in the unlikely event that you experienced chatter from the clutch type front limited slip when making a slow/tight turn then I would add a slight amount of friction modifier. You don't want the fluid to become too slippery for the synchros, I wouldn't want to add much more than 1%.
Back to me So it looks like HSP will not lose any power when up to operating temperature and in fact it has a lower coeficient of friction compared to conventional oils causing issue with syncro's. Based on this i must be a driving god as i never had problems matching my gear speeds. LOL
So it looks like HSP is a great choice for dog boxes without a drilled centre shaft, but it isnt a good option for a road syncro based box, which is what Bob was saying he found on scoobynet recently. [/qb]
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#8
I must also be a driving god!
can't help but notice that I have never "lost" a gearbox in all my use of redline heavyweight shock proof.
That said, I will go with what redline say next time.
can't help but notice that I have never "lost" a gearbox in all my use of redline heavyweight shock proof.
That said, I will go with what redline say next time.
#9
Now Adam, how many miles have you actually driven the car with the HSP in?
FWIW I did 90k miles on my gearbox and in that time it's had to come appart twice, the first time for new 4th syncro under warranty, the second for a snapped selector rod. I've run the standard Shell oil, Silkolene Pro S and Syntrax. The Syntrax has been the best behaved so far, and lasted to TOTB's two trips to the Pod and SSO plus about 2k miles on track and 10k miles on the road...it's coming out now for the 6 speed to replace it...there's no way the standard box will survive with the 2.5!
FWIW I did 90k miles on my gearbox and in that time it's had to come appart twice, the first time for new 4th syncro under warranty, the second for a snapped selector rod. I've run the standard Shell oil, Silkolene Pro S and Syntrax. The Syntrax has been the best behaved so far, and lasted to TOTB's two trips to the Pod and SSO plus about 2k miles on track and 10k miles on the road...it's coming out now for the 6 speed to replace it...there's no way the standard box will survive with the 2.5!
#10
Scooby Regular
the recomendation for HSP comes direct from the European Agent for Redline..............the states don't seem to have the same experience in highly modded Scooby's............
don't normally recomend or put in std'ish or mildly modded boxes but for extreme use then we and plenty of our customers don't seem to have any issues??
alyn
don't normally recomend or put in std'ish or mildly modded boxes but for extreme use then we and plenty of our customers don't seem to have any issues??
alyn
#11
Alyn, granted in the US they've not had the DCCD to play with until recently, but we are way behind them on the modded scooby front...have you seen what the US WRX and Sti owners have been up to lately?
#13
What i also said after that post was that i personally never had any issues with Redline HSP, it made a huge improvement in the gearbox performance on my car on track. One of the reasons why i was asking redline about the oil was to see why there would be a case that some people dont get on with it, and there explanation makes sense in terms of syncro speed might be an issue for some.
I am going to try the NSP next time, but if the gearbox temps go back to the high levels i saw with conventional oils when on track, i'll be putting HSP back in the gearbox, iresepective of what Redline say.
I did rather a large amount of high load miles on my car Tim, so i think its been well proven for longevity. It's actually better in that respect compared to conventional oils as with the TypeRA you are suposed to change the gear oil more regularly compared to a VC equipped impreza, the redline increases that period between changes significantly.
I am going to try the NSP next time, but if the gearbox temps go back to the high levels i saw with conventional oils when on track, i'll be putting HSP back in the gearbox, iresepective of what Redline say.
I did rather a large amount of high load miles on my car Tim, so i think its been well proven for longevity. It's actually better in that respect compared to conventional oils as with the TypeRA you are suposed to change the gear oil more regularly compared to a VC equipped impreza, the redline increases that period between changes significantly.
#14
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Originally Posted by Playsatan
Cheers for all the feedback guys.
Think I'll contact a few of the gearbox specialist firms on here amd get a quote or two. Guess I better start looking into clutch options as well.
Think I'll contact a few of the gearbox specialist firms on here amd get a quote or two. Guess I better start looking into clutch options as well.
If you want a sensible chat about options call me.
Good Luck; David, APi Engines / APi lmpreza 01926 614333
#15
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Originally Posted by Tim W
Alyn, granted in the US they've not had the DCCD to play with until recently, but we are way behind them on the modded scooby front...have you seen what the US WRX and Sti owners have been up to lately?
#18
#20
Originally Posted by APIDavid
If you want a sensible chat about options call me.
Like I said in my original post I'm not running silly power but would like to get somewhere close to 400/400 (wouldn't we all?). Bearing that in mind what do you think would be the most hassle free/cost effective option?
Defo want to stick with the DCCD tho, totally sideways out of the hairpin nearly every time.
#21
Sounds like you may have a damaged selector mechanism...I started getting problems selecting 5th and reverse smoothly and then one day on a bit a of a charge the gearbox jammed in 3rd. It turned out that I'd snapped the end of the 3rd/4th selector rod...Looking at the remains I came to the conclusion that I'd probably got a small stress fracture that propogated the crack, which eventually led to the failure, from a worn 4th gear syncro that had been replaced about 30k miles before
#22
Lots of similarities Tim, had the scrco replaced on 5th less than about 1000 miles and it seemed to have sorted the snick but it's gradually returned and them total loss of reverse today out of the blue.
Thought that it might have been selector related problem with reverse but didn't put 2 and 2 togther. Was it an easy (relatively cheap) fix?
Thought that it might have been selector related problem with reverse but didn't put 2 and 2 togther. Was it an easy (relatively cheap) fix?
#23
Yes...but I had to strip the box and then give the bits to someone who knows what they're doing to put it back together again and set up all the interlocks properly I was charged 100 quid to reassemble the box and the parts only cost me about 20 quid second hand
I would thoroughly recommend the chap to you, but he's in Canterbury, not exactly local to you I see
I would thoroughly recommend the chap to you, but he's in Canterbury, not exactly local to you I see
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