dr_jones

iTrader: (1)

Cam belt change time is here for me - 98K miles (was previously changed at 40K)

I've found a pretty comprehensive guire here:

http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/t.../dohctbelt.pdf

Though mine is a JDM as opposed to the 2.2 NA us jobby I recon the proceedure will be the same / very similar.

as well as the workshop manual at

http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk


Questions I have though....


1. Its a '97 v3 Sti so will this be the old easily retracted tensioner or the revised design which I'd have to replcace (no hydraulic press).

2. Is is advisable to replace the idler pulleys and belt tensioner pulleys at the same time or just check them for general play / wear?

Cheers, dr_jones

P20SPD

iTrader: (1)

old tensioner

depends on condition of idler pulleys when you see them

STI5300

iTrader: (4)

You will need to fabricate a tool to undo the crank pulley, if you are near Swansea you can borrow the one I fabricated.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

handbrake on and in 5th.. no need for a crank tool imho..

I needed a crank puller to get the crank pulley off once the biolt was undone mind.

I doubt you will have any idler problems.. mine I changed at 145,000miles with no problems. All the idlers span and had no free play in the bearings.

I would recommend you change the crank seal at that mileage though.. they last about 100,000miles.

Also check for oil leaks from the cam seals.

dr_jones

iTrader: (1)

Cheers mate - thats good of you - unfortunately you're a couple of hundred miles away so I'll have to make something up......

dr_jones

iTrader: (1)

Cheers may well give this a go - hadn't thought about the crank seal - will get one sorted - anyone know the part no??

CustomScoobyIOM

As JGM says no special tool needed.

Don't rotate the LH cam wheels the wrong way either. Intake rotates clockwise, exh rotates anti-clockwise otherwise you get valve clash.

Make sure the crank is TDC before removing the belt.

Jon.

RON

JON,
Do i take it from your last comment about tdc, that if at tdc, and you then remove the belt, the cams won't move?? I'm wanting to do my belt, but am a little aprehensive......is there a way of slipping the existing belt say half off the sprockets towards the engine... and then slip a new belt over the front, cut the old one off, and then finish fitting the new one.. therefore not having anything move??

Cheers..

Ron.

stockcar

Ron the N/S pulleys are right on the 'rock', but tend to only move when you catch them, etc.................if your worried a "friend" with a 17mm spanner on each N/S pulley will stop them rotating..................

you will need to take the old belt off first too.............

alyn

RON

Cheers Alyn...... I might need to buy a new belt then......

stockcar

strangely enough............................might just know a man who can help there Ron..........................

LOL

RON

Go on then Alyn... how much roughly, my2000 uk turbo......pm if you prefer....

CustomScoobyIOM

As Alyn says mate 2 people makes the job easier but if they do slip remember only to rotate them the proper way.

Quite happily show you how to do it mate if you are nearby?

Old belt taken off, new belt on.

Will be doing 3 next week so welcome to pop over.

Cheers!
Jon.

RON

Cheers Jon, but I fear Dorset is a little far from oooop north!!

thanks anyway!!

wagon bad boy

nice one m8 iv but a new water pump on today but it wont start the timing is out i hope