HELP! Replaced gearbox now got trouble!!
31 January 2005, 11:35 PM
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HELP! Replaced gearbox now got trouble!!
right then, spent freaking ages this weekend replacing a broken gearbox with a jdm box and matching rear diff.
Unfortunatly the car now has a few problems.
1. The car now runs lumpy when idling, really hunting. Did an ecu check and it reported no errors. ---- Fixed! the throttle sensor bolt i used to pull the clutch fork bolt out with, wasnt in properley.
2. The uprated clutch i had replaced 8K miles ago is now slipping in every gear. making the car pretty undrivable.
3. The car now clicks from the front passenger wheel when turning right.
Any ideas please because I just want to kick it
please help asap
Si
Unfortunatly the car now has a few problems.
1. The car now runs lumpy when idling, really hunting. Did an ecu check and it reported no errors. ---- Fixed! the throttle sensor bolt i used to pull the clutch fork bolt out with, wasnt in properley.
2. The uprated clutch i had replaced 8K miles ago is now slipping in every gear. making the car pretty undrivable.
3. The car now clicks from the front passenger wheel when turning right.
Any ideas please because I just want to kick it
please help asap
Si
Last edited by SyHightower; 01 February 2005 at 07:16 PM. Reason: updating problems
01 February 2005, 07:02 AM
#2
I know the feeling....doing both is a real labour of a job, done it 3 times 
In the fight you have just had are you sure you have re connected all the looms to/from the down pipe?
Have you disturbed anything electrical or pipe wise when you removed/replaced the TMIC?
There are a lot of pipes around the starter motor to and from dump valves etc.
My experience is on an Sti v3 classic, and i broke the small tube to the inlet manifold from the base of the stock DV, cause all manner of probs until I found it.
As to the slipping clutch:
There is no logical reason for it to slip with the 'new' box unless that box is leaking oil out of its input shaft. Is oil coming out of the bell housing?
Bleed the clutch properly before you go further. Do the accessible/simple stuff first!
You are well pIssed off now, a lot of us understand believe me, re trace your steps with a cool head, check every hose/wire you will or might have disturbed for connection at the start and finish of their runs.
Always come back to Snet for help!
Good luck,
911
In the fight you have just had are you sure you have re connected all the looms to/from the down pipe?
Have you disturbed anything electrical or pipe wise when you removed/replaced the TMIC?
There are a lot of pipes around the starter motor to and from dump valves etc.
My experience is on an Sti v3 classic, and i broke the small tube to the inlet manifold from the base of the stock DV, cause all manner of probs until I found it.
As to the slipping clutch:
There is no logical reason for it to slip with the 'new' box unless that box is leaking oil out of its input shaft. Is oil coming out of the bell housing?
Bleed the clutch properly before you go further. Do the accessible/simple stuff first!
You are well pIssed off now, a lot of us understand believe me, re trace your steps with a cool head, check every hose/wire you will or might have disturbed for connection at the start and finish of their runs.
Always come back to Snet for help!
Good luck,
911
Last edited by 911; 01 February 2005 at 07:04 AM. Reason: spelling
01 February 2005, 10:02 AM
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ok calm head now on lol! how frustrating is doing this!
i over filled the gearbx oil and had to let around a litre (possibly a little more) out again, could this lead to the oil leaking out of the input shaft? on the dip stick it was litterally about 2 inches above the full hole. i thought the donor box was completly empty so i put the recomended amount in. doh!
i didnt remove/bleed the clutch piston, could it be constntly applying pressure on the clutch arm since removing and refitting?
gonna check easy stuff later today, any ideas on the clicking wheel?
cheers for you reply
Si
i over filled the gearbx oil and had to let around a litre (possibly a little more) out again, could this lead to the oil leaking out of the input shaft? on the dip stick it was litterally about 2 inches above the full hole. i thought the donor box was completly empty so i put the recomended amount in. doh!
i didnt remove/bleed the clutch piston, could it be constntly applying pressure on the clutch arm since removing and refitting?
gonna check easy stuff later today, any ideas on the clicking wheel?
cheers for you reply
Si
01 February 2005, 11:24 AM
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Are you sure all the drive shafts are put back propperly?
I've changed 4 times a clutch within a month before i noticed that there was a rear driveshaft not put in the diff propperly.
The gearbox would like to transfer al the power to the rearwheel with no traction and feels like slipping clutch
I've changed 4 times a clutch within a month before i noticed that there was a rear driveshaft not put in the diff propperly.
The gearbox would like to transfer al the power to the rearwheel with no traction and feels like slipping clutch
01 February 2005, 12:48 PM
#6
I would certainly go with checking all the driveshafts are in correctly. I had to really slam my rears to get them to click in.
Over filling the gearbox would result in the excess spewing out of the dip/filler stick.
Do check that the clutch release arm is properly located. there should be some 'play' but nothing that feels excessive.
If it wobbles then the assy is not togeter correctly.
Did you feed the fork into the thrust bearing AFTER the box was fully on or pre engage it to the thrust with the box off?
911
Over filling the gearbox would result in the excess spewing out of the dip/filler stick.
Do check that the clutch release arm is properly located. there should be some 'play' but nothing that feels excessive.
If it wobbles then the assy is not togeter correctly.
Did you feed the fork into the thrust bearing AFTER the box was fully on or pre engage it to the thrust with the box off?
911
01 February 2005, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by David MY99
Are you sure all the drive shafts are put back propperly?
I've changed 4 times a clutch within a month before i noticed that there was a rear driveshaft not put in the diff propperly.
The gearbox would like to transfer al the power to the rearwheel with no traction and feels like slipping clutch
I've changed 4 times a clutch within a month before i noticed that there was a rear driveshaft not put in the diff propperly.
The gearbox would like to transfer al the power to the rearwheel with no traction and feels like slipping clutch
catalunia - "Did you feed the fork into the thrust bearing AFTER the box was fully on or pre engage it to the thrust with the box off?" ----as you did this can you shed any light?
when i 1st pressed the clutch when the box was fully bolted on it made a loud clank which is what i though was it being seated. it seems to disengage and engage, but has this slip
thanks for the replys, any other ideas?
Simon
Last edited by SyHightower; 01 February 2005 at 12:58 PM.
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01 February 2005, 01:27 PM
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it was placed in situ as much as could be while there was a big gap between the bell housing and block. It was coming and going all the time so could have fallen out of the clips....When it got a bit closer it needed locating better and when finally there clicked into place.....
01 February 2005, 05:55 PM
#10
Now I am scratching about, but did you put the friction plate in the right way round?
The centre boss is 'one sided' so maybe you actually cant assemble the clutch back to front, but just a thought and you can't check it unless you take it all out again. Sorry.
Sounds to me the clutch arm/thrust has snapped into place.
Seems to me you have to pull the box again.(been there...)
911
The centre boss is 'one sided' so maybe you actually cant assemble the clutch back to front, but just a thought and you can't check it unless you take it all out again. Sorry.
Sounds to me the clutch arm/thrust has snapped into place.
Seems to me you have to pull the box again.(been there...)
911
01 February 2005, 07:31 PM
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runs lumpy when idling?
are all pipes back on around the dump valve area
did you re connect the lambda sensor
did you re connect the little earth wire that goes from the box to thebulkhead
turn in clicking, either sounds like a drive shaft isnt in right, or the front diff is fecked IMO
are all pipes back on around the dump valve area
did you re connect the lambda sensor
did you re connect the little earth wire that goes from the box to thebulkhead
turn in clicking, either sounds like a drive shaft isnt in right, or the front diff is fecked IMO
01 February 2005, 07:36 PM
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fixed the idle problem. The throttle sensor bolt i used to pull the clutch fork bolt out with, wasnt in properley, you could actually hear hissing from it.
how can i test if its the diff? jack the wheel up and turn it by hand?
cheers,
Si
how can i test if its the diff? jack the wheel up and turn it by hand?
cheers,
Si
01 February 2005, 10:51 PM
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will try tomorrow, went outside to investigate the clicking wheel.
1. i jacked the clicking wheel (front passenger)up on its own and spun it, then spun it full lock - no click
2. jacked other wheel off the floor, spun clicking wheel forward and full lock, no click then either?
will a CV joint make a click if there is no weight on it?
im concerned that the diff is faulty as per the previous post, but im confused why it would only appear when turning right?
cheers
Si
1. i jacked the clicking wheel (front passenger)up on its own and spun it, then spun it full lock - no click
2. jacked other wheel off the floor, spun clicking wheel forward and full lock, no click then either?
will a CV joint make a click if there is no weight on it?
im concerned that the diff is faulty as per the previous post, but im confused why it would only appear when turning right?
cheers
Si
03 February 2005, 10:50 AM
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poink!
its really driving me mad now!
im gonna leave the clutch till the weekend but want to fix the annoying clicking problem now.
Cheers to all who have responded
Si
its really driving me mad now!
im gonna leave the clutch till the weekend but want to fix the annoying clicking problem now.
Cheers to all who have responded
Si
03 February 2005, 12:55 PM
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The slipping clutch can have several other reasons:
First remove the spring from the clutchfork if it's mounted. IF it isn't then put the spring back on. Other option is to adjust the clutch pedal.
Don't have a solution for the clicking
First remove the spring from the clutchfork if it's mounted. IF it isn't then put the spring back on. Other option is to adjust the clutch pedal.
Don't have a solution for the clicking
03 February 2005, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by David MY99
The slipping clutch can have several other reasons:
First remove the spring from the clutchfork if it's mounted. IF it isn't then put the spring back on. Other option is to adjust the clutch pedal.
Don't have a solution for the clicking
First remove the spring from the clutchfork if it's mounted. IF it isn't then put the spring back on. Other option is to adjust the clutch pedal.
Don't have a solution for the clicking
just took the intercooler off again and took the starter motor and the clutch fork bolt out. cleaned the old sticky gunk off it and put new copper grease on, put the fork back but am unsure weather it seated properly, put the bolt back in , which was really easy, and put everything back together. made chuff all difference! bollox!
really could do with seeing a diagram to seating the fork correctly anyone help?
Si
03 February 2005, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SyHightower
the spring has never been on, but the spring is pulling it to engage anyway isnt it, in 99% sure anyway.
just took the intercooler off again and took the starter motor and the clutch fork bolt out. cleaned the old sticky gunk off it and put new copper grease on, put the fork back but am unsure weather it seated properly, put the bolt back in , which was really easy, and put everything back together. made chuff all difference! bollox!
really could do with seeing a diagram to seating the fork correctly anyone help?
Si
just took the intercooler off again and took the starter motor and the clutch fork bolt out. cleaned the old sticky gunk off it and put new copper grease on, put the fork back but am unsure weather it seated properly, put the bolt back in , which was really easy, and put everything back together. made chuff all difference! bollox!
really could do with seeing a diagram to seating the fork correctly anyone help?
Si
03 February 2005, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by David MY99
The spring should give some pressure on the clutchfork and pull it to the back of the car so the clutch is completly free of any pressure and pushes the clutch cillinder back to normal. I can't tell it any clearer because of my bad english
03 February 2005, 09:21 PM
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i'm running out of solutions then,
the clutchfork is released from the clutchcilinder if jou look onder the hood or is there still some pressure on the fork ?
If that's so then you must adjust the clutch cillinder. You can change this setting by going under the dashboard behind your gaspedal, there is a screw which you can turn in or out a bit. Just play a little bit with it and see if it gets better.After adjustment you must pump the clutch pedal a couple of time's before you notice some difference.
Normally you have about 0.5-1cm space before you feel some pressure at the pedal. If its hard as soon as you touch it then make it a bit more lose.
Hope this works m8, can't think of anything else
the clutchfork is released from the clutchcilinder if jou look onder the hood or is there still some pressure on the fork ?
If that's so then you must adjust the clutch cillinder. You can change this setting by going under the dashboard behind your gaspedal, there is a screw which you can turn in or out a bit. Just play a little bit with it and see if it gets better.After adjustment you must pump the clutch pedal a couple of time's before you notice some difference.
Normally you have about 0.5-1cm space before you feel some pressure at the pedal. If its hard as soon as you touch it then make it a bit more lose.
Hope this works m8, can't think of anything else
03 February 2005, 09:34 PM
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ill have a look in the morning, does the clutch cylinder build up pressure when the engine is turned on? like breaks?
i cant see if its under pressure then because of the intercooler when the engines running
there is no pressure when the engine is turned off
cheers for the idea
Si
i cant see if its under pressure then because of the intercooler when the engines running
there is no pressure when the engine is turned off
cheers for the idea
Si
03 February 2005, 11:13 PM
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should be the same, the clutch cillinder does not build any pressure other then with your foot. Bassicly you should have about 3-4 mm free between the fork and the cillinder under the hood. Also it must be possible to push back te clutchcillinder without any brute force, if this aint so, adjust te pedal
10 February 2005, 03:47 PM
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its still on 4 jacks on my drive gearbox 1/2 off! didnt get much time to do it last weekend. this weekend ive dedicated time to do it.
been thinking about it, as i have no gearbox jack, when pulling the old box off i think it bent backwards too far and bent or misaligned the clutch housing/plate with the central spline, seems more plausable for the symptoms its shown
hopefully all will be revealed
Si
been thinking about it, as i have no gearbox jack, when pulling the old box off i think it bent backwards too far and bent or misaligned the clutch housing/plate with the central spline, seems more plausable for the symptoms its shown
hopefully all will be revealed
Si