bluep

As above my type r isnt running to well.For a while there it was mis firing when i tried to drop a gear and floor it.I serviced it then took of the old air filter an old hks one.This has cured the car to a point.It idles fine accelerates fine but after a prolonged drive i.e a motorway blast the check engine light comes on and wont go of till i switch car of start it again,anyone any ideas?

Blind Side

Could be any one of a number of things. I would suggest that you do not "put the hammer down" until you have sorted out your problem. Otherwise you could be looking at the cost of a new engine. (Engine warning light in conjunction with timing/power loss is seriously not good news). You will need to provide some more info before anyone on here can help:
Start with looking at fuelling; what are you running the car on? Are you on the original stock Jap ECU? What type of air filter are you actually using, panel or induction kit? Have you fitted a VTA type dump valve? Have you checked/changed the MAF sensor particularly if STI 5 or 6? Do you have oil temp/pressure and turbo boost sensors fitted? If so what readings are you getting during/after a hard run? Answers will help to narrow it down.

bluep

Car is standard from japan.
Run it on bp ultimate and milliars booster.
Took hks filter of and have replaced it with standard air box and blue panel filter it came with.
Car is a 97 ver 3
I have a vta think its forge.
Have no after market guages just a rev speed meter by apexi.
And car does only about 100 miles a month if i am lucky.

Sorry forgot to add-while cruising along motorway at average speeds i can hear the d/valve hissing constantly.Might this be a cause?I dont seem to remember my previous baily one doing this on my 94 wrx.

CustomScoobyIOM

Dump valve sounds faulty.

Could me MAF most likely or possibly lambda.

Is it using more fuel than normal?

Jon

Blind Side

Agree with Jon.
Suggest you bin the VTA dump valve immediately and put the original re-circ back on ensuring there are no leaks.
Then change the MAF sensor to be on the safe side and reset the ECU immediately after.
Also better to run on Optimax and a stronger octane booster such as NF if you can get hold of it, again just to make sure that you raise the level sufficiently to run at/over 100RON.
Hopefully this might solve the problem. If not back to the drawing board.

bluep

We dont get optimax here in n. ireland.Will try dump valve and see how i go.How much is lamda and maf? Think fuel usage is fine.

Blind Side

In that case Ultimate with a good dose of NF (60ml) at each fill up should sort the fuelling. I don't know the part number for the pre '99 MAF. Try Graham Goode or one of the other import specialists. I seem to remember that the earlier MAF may be a stupid price new, so you may want to try car breakers for a salvaged one.
In any event change the MAF first (if sorting out your DV does not cure the power loss). I wouldnt worry about the lambda unless the car is 'running rich' with a noticable gain in fuel consumption.
Hope that you get sorted.

bluep

Cheers for response will try to cure it at weekend.When i changed the plugs they were like a burnt orange colour this is a good sign i think or is it?

200+Bhp

Orange discolouration is usually due to the octane booster

Is you're car running OK now ?

200+Bhp

Get the fault code read before you turn off the ignition

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

look them up http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co....iag%20Page.htm