standing by my car this morning i thought the revs were fluctuating up and down, as it turns out, if they were moving 100 rpm up then 100 rpm down that's all it was.

so this evening tried the method of pulling the socket out of the MAF, well 1st go the engine revs nearly die then pick up back to normal, 2nd time same thing, 3rd time the engine stalls and a 4th time again the engine nearly stalls then picks up revs again.

is my MAF fooked, nearly fooked or normal?

cars MPG doesn't seem to be any different and it was idling fine before (and after) i pulled out the socket, should this be done when the engines hot or cold or doesn't it matter.

cheers

 

just had another look, car sits at idle at 800 rpm, if i blip throttle up to 3000 rpm it drops to about 1200rpm then settles to 700 then rises and sits at 800.

but it still won't stall with the MAF disconected, REALLY tries to, but revs up just as it's about to die.

 

I'm awaiting further clarification from Bob Rawle as to whether or not the "disconnect MAF test" is valid, so don't rely on it too much...!

What MY are we talking about here? More info here...

 

I had exactly same problem, I did the test as you described and got the same results.

It turned out that the problem was with the Lambda sensor. I replaced the lambda sensor and reset the ECU, then repeated the MAF test and the car stalled as is normal

Winders

 

I second this, had exactly the problem and new lambda solved it

 

cheers for the replies guys

it's a MY99 by the way. i think i jumped the gun a bit and got panicky when it didn't stall (which may well be perfectly normal it may seem) and as i've said, the revs weren't going up and down by a significant amount anyway and it's idling fine today.
yesterday was the only time it's ever felt anything other than 100% and i guess loads of different things could have caused this.

ta

 

I think what you're looking for is "Little or No Difference" when you pull the MAF, as opposed to "Stall / Not stall".

If it comes really close to stalling, it just means the ECU "caught" it, but that the MAF reading was still fairly normal, as it was a good distance away from Zero!

If you pull it and nothing at all happens...that's when you need to worry, as the reading between NO MAF and Broken MAF is so similar that the ECU doesn't notice.

That's all IMO, of course

 

sounds logical though mate, as you say, it sounds like the ecu is at least getting some sort of info from the MAF to recover the engine enough to stop the stall as opposed to no info being sent and it running exactly the same.

and at the end of the day, if the engine goes pop i'll just send you the bill saying 'turbo_steve said this was ok'

 

I thought so too, hence including it in the test list. However, a man who knows far more than I quoted...