Soren

Hi Folks,

After an oil change, replacing the clips on the turbo outlet and intercooler inlet, and a 250 mile motorway drive, my Scoob has developed an idle problem.

When coming to a stop and getting out of gear, it will drop to 400rpm or so and sometimes cut out. Once warmed up, the hunts between 400-1000rpm, in a steady rythm - up, down, up, down, and so on.

I've taken to turning on the A/C when coming to a stop, since the extra load seems to help prevent stalling.

1. Used Subaru oil filter
2. Used 5w40 synthetic oil
3. Over-filled the oil by as much as a quart before the motorway trip (oops). Taken to the correct level after realizing my mistake and looking for a cause for the idle problem.
4. ECU reset on several occasions by a battery disconnect.
5. No codes from ECU when plugged into a dealership diagnostic box, while the idle was going up and down.

Based on this thread:

Butty

iTrader: (2)

I asked a similar question on the BBS last week, concerning my Forester and was told that I may have a slight leak on a hose.
Over this weekend I checked all the hoses that exit the manifold and enter solenoids etc etc and put PTFE tape on those that were looser than others. Seems to have done the trick.

Nick

logix651

I had a idling problem a few months back.
After a long run and then stoping at lights the rev's goes up and down. Its like reving the engine between 400-1500rpm.

Took mine to the dealer to sort it out.

They replaced the Lambda sensor under warranty and its not happened since.

Jan Shim

aftermarket adjustable blow-off valves have a tendency to do that too. i recently tried this with my Sard BOV, gave it 2 turns "soft" and the car started alright. Drove the car around the neighbourhood and while engine RPM is maintained above 1,000 rpm, all seemed normal until I slowed down at the junction, RPM dripped to 500 then shot up to a tad below 1,500 the stalled.
Quickly re-adjusted BOV setting to "hard" and all is fine again.

Soren

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately...

1. New, generic, 3-wire O2 sensor installed. No real progress - maybe better by a fraction.

1a. I have a euro RB5 and Subaru UK won't even sell me an O2 sensor. Bunch of a**holes. I've talked to THREE dealers now, including the one I bought the car from and once I say "LHD", they clam up. Looks like I'm on my own.

2. Haven't gotten a new DV, but that is next on the list. The OEM one didn't look like it had a problem, though.

3. Any other sensor besides the MAF that I can look into? I understand that the MAF is quite pricey.

4. Can anyone suggest a garage in the Leeds area that may be able to help if I can't sort this on my own?

5. LINK here I come...

Soren

Soren

Hi Folks,

On a whim, I decided to see what would happen if the MAF sensor was unplugged.

Viola! No more idle problem. Steady as a rock. Couldn't give it more than 1 or 2 PSI on the road before it started to break up.

So, if it CAN idle, I'm confident that there are no air leaks. Now why is the car idling at all with no MAF.

I check the ECU and there is a rinky-dink Superchips box wired inline on (presumably) the air flow signal.

Once that is bypassed, the car won't idle at all. I didn't even bother taking the car out of the garage.

I'm thinking the MAF is knackered and the Superchips dongle was hiding it.

Commments?

Soren

Sam Elassar

the MAF is quite pricey but you would not need it if you have Link. you are almost 1/3 of the way there.

i think it is against the law for main subaru dealers not to service or repair/fix a european import ?