Turbo Transplant
Scooby Regular
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 4,300
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From: Scoobysport, Basildon, UK
Hi Rob
1) Remove intercooler
2) Remove turbo heat shield
3) Remove downpipe
4) Remove turbo to up pipe nuts
5) Remove oil supply connection at the top and ease away
6) Remove coolant pipes and plug each one as you do (do when cold) and wategate feed pipe
7) Lift off turbo
8) Replace gasket to up pipe
9) Slip oil drain pipe clip away (cable tie this open)
10) Replace turbo making sure that oil drain pipe is correctly mated (not kinked)
then reverse steps 6-1 using a new gasket on the turbo outlet. When you are happy with the drain pipe connection, lift the clip up into place and cut off the cable tie. The olives on the oil supply pipe should be replaced too.
[This message has been edited by Pete Croney (edited 14 May 2001).]
1) Remove intercooler
2) Remove turbo heat shield
3) Remove downpipe
4) Remove turbo to up pipe nuts
5) Remove oil supply connection at the top and ease away
6) Remove coolant pipes and plug each one as you do (do when cold) and wategate feed pipe
7) Lift off turbo
8) Replace gasket to up pipe
9) Slip oil drain pipe clip away (cable tie this open)
10) Replace turbo making sure that oil drain pipe is correctly mated (not kinked)
then reverse steps 6-1 using a new gasket on the turbo outlet. When you are happy with the drain pipe connection, lift the clip up into place and cut off the cable tie. The olives on the oil supply pipe should be replaced too.
[This message has been edited by Pete Croney (edited 14 May 2001).]
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 679
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Rob,
Pete has pretty much outlined the procedure for swapping out a VF serires for a VF series, but there are one or two "gotchas" if you don't have a VF series already...
If you have an older car, anything pre-97, then it will almost certainly have the NMHI TD-05H turbo. Swapping one of these for a VF series is one royal pain in the butt, generally it involves replacing the intake manifold as well, unless you use the old Group A rally car trick of stuffing a 10mm nylon spacer between the manifold and the heads. Prodrive sell a very nice carbon fibre intake trumpet which will the feed air directly into your VF23 (or their VF15
)
If you have a later UK car then you're lucky since they already have the right intake air pipework you require. In BOTH cases, you will need a new oil feed pipe and banjo bolts since the IHI and MHI turbos use different thread sizes and pitches, plus the feed pipe is a different length (slightly), so make sure you get the right one for the job
Finally, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT start the car before you have disconnected the injectors / spark plugs / coil packs (whatever is easier). This will allow you to crank the engine for a good 30 seconds to make sure that the bearing is well lubed (even at idle the spindle turns very fast! on full boost you can expect about a hundred and fifty thousand RPM) . After the oil has been primed, reconnect the injoectors / plug leads / coil packs (whatever you disconnected) and fire it up. FWIW, the safest is the injectors since then you won't risk bore wash or hydraulicing the engine.
Hope this helps,
Pat.
PS: Why a VF23??
Pete has pretty much outlined the procedure for swapping out a VF serires for a VF series, but there are one or two "gotchas" if you don't have a VF series already...
If you have an older car, anything pre-97, then it will almost certainly have the NMHI TD-05H turbo. Swapping one of these for a VF series is one royal pain in the butt, generally it involves replacing the intake manifold as well, unless you use the old Group A rally car trick of stuffing a 10mm nylon spacer between the manifold and the heads. Prodrive sell a very nice carbon fibre intake trumpet which will the feed air directly into your VF23 (or their VF15
)If you have a later UK car then you're lucky since they already have the right intake air pipework you require. In BOTH cases, you will need a new oil feed pipe and banjo bolts since the IHI and MHI turbos use different thread sizes and pitches, plus the feed pipe is a different length (slightly), so make sure you get the right one for the job
Finally, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT start the car before you have disconnected the injectors / spark plugs / coil packs (whatever is easier). This will allow you to crank the engine for a good 30 seconds to make sure that the bearing is well lubed (even at idle the spindle turns very fast! on full boost you can expect about a hundred and fifty thousand RPM) . After the oil has been primed, reconnect the injoectors / plug leads / coil packs (whatever you disconnected) and fire it up. FWIW, the safest is the injectors since then you won't risk bore wash or hydraulicing the engine.
Hope this helps,
Pat.
PS: Why a VF23??
Scooby Newbie
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Ok... I just spent about an hour searching the archive of posts. I am in a similar situation and want to upgrade my turbo charger. Thing is... since the WRX just hit the states, most people have no idea what will work and what will not.
I have several problems with the stock TD04L turbo that is on my car.
1. I live at almost 5800 feet above sea level. The air up here is not very dense at all, and the little turbo charger is working a bit to hard for its own good just to pump out the stock boost levels.
2. I want more power and there is going to be no real good way to get it out of this turbo since its already in pretty bad shape up here.
3. I want less lag. The stock unit really does not give a good punch until around 3000 RPMs I can not figure out why this is so. Some say its the ECU that dumps boost early for EPA regulations, and others say that's not the case at all, that the wastegate is fully closed down low, and the turbo just lags. In any case this is very strange for such a small turbo. I have seen data logger results, and we are getting about 2 psi at 2000 rpms. If I could get a turbo with less lag on there it would help derivability a whole lot.
My goals are for around 250ft/lbs and 300hp. The more torque the better, but I am somewhat reluctant to run high torque on the stock transmission.
What turbo do you recommend?
Thanks for the help
-Nathan
I have several problems with the stock TD04L turbo that is on my car.
1. I live at almost 5800 feet above sea level. The air up here is not very dense at all, and the little turbo charger is working a bit to hard for its own good just to pump out the stock boost levels.
2. I want more power and there is going to be no real good way to get it out of this turbo since its already in pretty bad shape up here.
3. I want less lag. The stock unit really does not give a good punch until around 3000 RPMs I can not figure out why this is so. Some say its the ECU that dumps boost early for EPA regulations, and others say that's not the case at all, that the wastegate is fully closed down low, and the turbo just lags. In any case this is very strange for such a small turbo. I have seen data logger results, and we are getting about 2 psi at 2000 rpms. If I could get a turbo with less lag on there it would help derivability a whole lot.
My goals are for around 250ft/lbs and 300hp. The more torque the better, but I am somewhat reluctant to run high torque on the stock transmission.
What turbo do you recommend?
Thanks for the help
-Nathan
Scooby Regular
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Portugal
Hi
As Rob, I will fit an IHI VF22 in my MY99 during next weekend.
read the posts above, but I`ve a doubt.
Are there recommended tithening torques for bolts that fix turbo to exhaust manifold and downpipe?
thanks in advance for the information added to this matter.
to ferreira
As Rob, I will fit an IHI VF22 in my MY99 during next weekend.
read the posts above, but I`ve a doubt.
Are there recommended tithening torques for bolts that fix turbo to exhaust manifold and downpipe?
thanks in advance for the information added to this matter.
to ferreira
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