When bleedin the clutch do you.....
#1
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Hi all,
I have a bit of trooble bleeding the clutch?
When bleeding the clutch to you take the clutchcylinder of the gearbox,as the bleedvalve is in the bottum of the cylinder???
When i have driven the car hard from 1-6th gear, the next time i try it the clutch can not release enought,so the cyncro crunch.
It is alot better now that i have changed the fluid,but i think that it can be a bit of air in the system.
So how do i bleed the clutch ???
All info would be great.
Thanks,
Skassa
I have a bit of trooble bleeding the clutch?
When bleeding the clutch to you take the clutchcylinder of the gearbox,as the bleedvalve is in the bottum of the cylinder???
When i have driven the car hard from 1-6th gear, the next time i try it the clutch can not release enought,so the cyncro crunch.
It is alot better now that i have changed the fluid,but i think that it can be a bit of air in the system.
So how do i bleed the clutch ???
All info would be great.
Thanks,
Skassa
#2
Bleeding the clutch on the impreza is a pig to get all the air out . The trick is to use the slave clinder to bleed the system buy moving the clutch fork/arm with your hand hope this helps
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Yes,
It does feel like there is not enough travel in the arm,if only i could push it down a bit more,then i´m sure it would work.
I´m almost sure it´s air in the system.
Thanks and keep it comming
Skassa
It does feel like there is not enough travel in the arm,if only i could push it down a bit more,then i´m sure it would work.
I´m almost sure it´s air in the system.
Thanks and keep it comming
Skassa
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The way i like to do it is as follows:
Remove return spring on clutch release arm/bellhousing.
Clamp hose fitted to cylinder.
Undo hose from cylinder, then unbolt cylinder from mounting (2 bolts)
Remove pin/dust cover/seal from cylinder, then remove spring inside cylinder.
Stretch spring, refit spring inside cylinder and refit pin/dust cover/seal.
Refit cylinder to hose and remove clamp.
Top up clutch reservoir.
Open bleed screw.
Press the pin inside the cylinder and keep your thumb over it to maintain a pressure on it. *This will be important*.
Get someone to go inside the car and hold clutch pedal by hand and move it full travel, in/out etc. They can't use their feet cause it will stay down the first time they press it.
When the pedal is going down, you will feel the pressure against your thumb. If the bleed screw isn't open enough, you will find it harder to keep the assembly together, so open the bleed screw quite a bit.
Make sure the bleed screw is uppermost so that all air is expelled..
When you see no more air coming out, get your helper to stop with the pedal down.Close the bleed screw, then bring the pedal back up.
Refit the cylinder back into place and refit the external spring to the release arm/bellhousing.
Press clutch pedal to check operation.
Don't forget to keep an eye on the fluid level when bleeding the system!
Reason for stretching the internal spring is because it weakens over time and the assembly doesn't give you full travel.
Symptoms of this, is when you change gear under normal usage everything is fine, but when you change gear when giving it a bit of gung ho , you can find that the first 1/4-1/2 travel is like there is air in the system (as if nothings there)and you have reduced clutch clearance.
Sounds a lot to do the job, but it's one of those ones that takes longer to write it down than it is to do it.
Hope this is what your looking for
Alan
Remove return spring on clutch release arm/bellhousing.
Clamp hose fitted to cylinder.
Undo hose from cylinder, then unbolt cylinder from mounting (2 bolts)
Remove pin/dust cover/seal from cylinder, then remove spring inside cylinder.
Stretch spring, refit spring inside cylinder and refit pin/dust cover/seal.
Refit cylinder to hose and remove clamp.
Top up clutch reservoir.
Open bleed screw.
Press the pin inside the cylinder and keep your thumb over it to maintain a pressure on it. *This will be important*.
Get someone to go inside the car and hold clutch pedal by hand and move it full travel, in/out etc. They can't use their feet cause it will stay down the first time they press it.
When the pedal is going down, you will feel the pressure against your thumb. If the bleed screw isn't open enough, you will find it harder to keep the assembly together, so open the bleed screw quite a bit.
Make sure the bleed screw is uppermost so that all air is expelled..
When you see no more air coming out, get your helper to stop with the pedal down.Close the bleed screw, then bring the pedal back up.
Refit the cylinder back into place and refit the external spring to the release arm/bellhousing.
Press clutch pedal to check operation.
Don't forget to keep an eye on the fluid level when bleeding the system!
Reason for stretching the internal spring is because it weakens over time and the assembly doesn't give you full travel.
Symptoms of this, is when you change gear under normal usage everything is fine, but when you change gear when giving it a bit of gung ho , you can find that the first 1/4-1/2 travel is like there is air in the system (as if nothings there)and you have reduced clutch clearance.
Sounds a lot to do the job, but it's one of those ones that takes longer to write it down than it is to do it.
Hope this is what your looking for
Alan
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