New clutch while engine out?
06 March 2001, 10:18 PM
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My MY98 goes into the dealer tomorrow to have its new piston fitted (to stop piston slap). The dealer has suggested that it might be wise to have the cambelt changed at the same time and save on labour charges. Considering the cambelt would normally be changed at the next service (Aug 2001), I think this is good advice. Its not every day that you have the engine out the car.
The next question is should I get the clutch changed at the same time? I'm assuming that having done 37000 miles, it will be significantly worn. The problem is dealer thinks that for parts alone, it will be about £300. Should I wait and have new clutch (such as an AP or Helix) fitted by independent fitter and might this be cheaper?
D.
The next question is should I get the clutch changed at the same time? I'm assuming that having done 37000 miles, it will be significantly worn. The problem is dealer thinks that for parts alone, it will be about £300. Should I wait and have new clutch (such as an AP or Helix) fitted by independent fitter and might this be cheaper?
D.
07 March 2001, 12:33 AM
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From experience with other cars, and that of various mates, for the extra cost of parts I'd have the clutch done at the same time. £300 hurts, but if you don't do it now and it starts slipping etc in 5000 miles, you'll have to pay that AND the £300-odd quid labour ...
07 March 2001, 04:50 PM
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Spoke to the dealer this afternoon. They have told me that the clutch plate is significantly worn but worse still, the flywheel is showing signs of heat damage, apparently secondary to the worn clutch. They say that they would recommend a new flywheel as well as the new clutch plate. Total cost an eyewatering £600.
I think that the job needs to be done but I dispute the dealer's opinion that its just wear and tear. I've had clutch judder since the car was a year old. I had mentioned this to previous dealers from the onset of the problem and they did not offer to repair this under warranty. I feel strongly that this is a manufacturing or design flaw which has been present for some time and I think that it should be replaced under warranty.
The dealer has agreed to contact IM to see if they will admit liability but I am not optimistic. I need the car back so I will have to pay up front, at least, and hopeful be re-imbursed by IM.
D.
I think that the job needs to be done but I dispute the dealer's opinion that its just wear and tear. I've had clutch judder since the car was a year old. I had mentioned this to previous dealers from the onset of the problem and they did not offer to repair this under warranty. I feel strongly that this is a manufacturing or design flaw which has been present for some time and I think that it should be replaced under warranty.
The dealer has agreed to contact IM to see if they will admit liability but I am not optimistic. I need the car back so I will have to pay up front, at least, and hopeful be re-imbursed by IM.
D.
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08 March 2001, 06:44 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by DJB:
<B>Spoke to the dealer this afternoon. They have told me that the clutch plate is significantly worn but worse still, the flywheel is showing signs of heat damage, apparently secondary to the worn clutch. They say that they would recommend a new flywheel as well as the new clutch plate. Total cost an eyewatering £600.
I think that the job needs to be done but I dispute the dealer's opinion that its just wear and tear. I've had clutch judder since the car was a year old. I had mentioned this to previous dealers from the onset of the problem and they did not offer to repair this under warranty. I feel strongly that this is a manufacturing or design flaw which has been present for some time and I think that it should be replaced under warranty.
The dealer has agreed to contact IM to see if they will admit liability but I am not optimistic. I need the car back so I will have to pay up front, at least, and hopeful be re-imbursed by IM.
D.[/quote]
Don't hold your breath - you are suffering the usual Subaru-rubbish clutch problem but have left it a bit late to get help. Yes you should get the flywheel changed at the same time to save the new clutch-plate and more aggro later but you must get a decent Helix or AP clutch or you'll be back again in 30,000 miles or less. My MY98 had a new clutch because of bad judder at 6 yes 6000 miles and the judder (when cold only) is back at 23000!
A beautiful car spoilt (as was my Legacy Turbo and a dealer courtesy-car Forester I borrowed last week) by a really poor clutch.
<B>Spoke to the dealer this afternoon. They have told me that the clutch plate is significantly worn but worse still, the flywheel is showing signs of heat damage, apparently secondary to the worn clutch. They say that they would recommend a new flywheel as well as the new clutch plate. Total cost an eyewatering £600.
I think that the job needs to be done but I dispute the dealer's opinion that its just wear and tear. I've had clutch judder since the car was a year old. I had mentioned this to previous dealers from the onset of the problem and they did not offer to repair this under warranty. I feel strongly that this is a manufacturing or design flaw which has been present for some time and I think that it should be replaced under warranty.
The dealer has agreed to contact IM to see if they will admit liability but I am not optimistic. I need the car back so I will have to pay up front, at least, and hopeful be re-imbursed by IM.
D.[/quote]
Don't hold your breath - you are suffering the usual Subaru-rubbish clutch problem but have left it a bit late to get help. Yes you should get the flywheel changed at the same time to save the new clutch-plate and more aggro later but you must get a decent Helix or AP clutch or you'll be back again in 30,000 miles or less. My MY98 had a new clutch because of bad judder at 6 yes 6000 miles and the judder (when cold only) is back at 23000!
A beautiful car spoilt (as was my Legacy Turbo and a dealer courtesy-car Forester I borrowed last week) by a really poor clutch.
08 March 2001, 09:02 PM
#9
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DJB, after I've had my engine replaced due to piston slap (another MY98) I've got a couple of points:
if you are getting a new short engine all belts should be new;
I asked the dealer to have a look at the clutch as my car was bad for clutch judder, they agreed there was a problem and replaced it and the flywheel under warranty
Nice
if you are getting a new short engine all belts should be new;
I asked the dealer to have a look at the clutch as my car was bad for clutch judder, they agreed there was a problem and replaced it and the flywheel under warranty
Nice
08 March 2001, 11:04 PM
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Still not got the car back yet - should be ready by tomorrow.
Miles,
I did not get a new short engine, but a replacement piston. It seems that this is the standard remedy for piston slap now.
Terry,
Unfortunately I have no choice but to get standard Subaru parts fitted (i.e. clutch and flywheel) even although I know they are inferior to the brands you named. At least this way, I might get IM to cough up.
And if they don't pay, I will not let my case drop.
D.
Miles,
I did not get a new short engine, but a replacement piston. It seems that this is the standard remedy for piston slap now.
Terry,
Unfortunately I have no choice but to get standard Subaru parts fitted (i.e. clutch and flywheel) even although I know they are inferior to the brands you named. At least this way, I might get IM to cough up.
And if they don't pay, I will not let my case drop.
D.
09 March 2001, 04:50 AM
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DJB....small point maybe...bit too late maybe....but I've heard that fitting a P1 clutch housing will cure clutch judder for good. Might be worth looking into if its not too late????
09 March 2001, 08:45 PM
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Well, despite my pesimism, IM have agreed to cover the cost of the new clutch and flywheel.
I have no doubt that they were happier to pay out because the engine was already removed to have the defective piston replaced (saved them labour charges). So instead of the expected £700, the total cost of the new piston, new clutch, new flywheel and new cambelt was only £125. This is in fact the cost of a new cambelt including VAT (no labour charge to me because engine was out) and since this was due to be changed at the next service, I have actaually saved about £200. I am delighted to say the least.
The whole feel of the car has been transformed. The clutch now feels like it did when new. Because of the gradual deterioration over months, I was unaware how bad it had got. The pedal had started to feel really heavy and engaging gears when stationary or moving slowly was hard work. Now the clutch is feather-light.
I asked the dealer whether they had fitted the same clutch as the original and was pleased to hear that it is different. He wasn't sure what the difference was, but it probably involves a different clutch cover and springs (maybe P1 parts).
Obviously, its early days to know whether the clutch or piston fix is durable but I would recommend that anyone with clutch judder and/or piston slap speaks to the dealer before the warranty runs out, even if there is only a few months left. It has been said before that IM won't replace a clutch on warranty if the car has done more than 10000 miles. Mine had done 37000 miles and had only 5 months left of the warranty. It has no modifications and I suspect that this is important if a warranty claim is to succeed.
Oh and finally, if there is a fault with your car, tell the dealer early and make sure that this appears on your service receipt. This may the best evidence that the fault was reported early and may help with a warranty claim in the future.
D.
I have no doubt that they were happier to pay out because the engine was already removed to have the defective piston replaced (saved them labour charges). So instead of the expected £700, the total cost of the new piston, new clutch, new flywheel and new cambelt was only £125. This is in fact the cost of a new cambelt including VAT (no labour charge to me because engine was out) and since this was due to be changed at the next service, I have actaually saved about £200. I am delighted to say the least.
The whole feel of the car has been transformed. The clutch now feels like it did when new. Because of the gradual deterioration over months, I was unaware how bad it had got. The pedal had started to feel really heavy and engaging gears when stationary or moving slowly was hard work. Now the clutch is feather-light.
I asked the dealer whether they had fitted the same clutch as the original and was pleased to hear that it is different. He wasn't sure what the difference was, but it probably involves a different clutch cover and springs (maybe P1 parts).
Obviously, its early days to know whether the clutch or piston fix is durable but I would recommend that anyone with clutch judder and/or piston slap speaks to the dealer before the warranty runs out, even if there is only a few months left. It has been said before that IM won't replace a clutch on warranty if the car has done more than 10000 miles. Mine had done 37000 miles and had only 5 months left of the warranty. It has no modifications and I suspect that this is important if a warranty claim is to succeed.
Oh and finally, if there is a fault with your car, tell the dealer early and make sure that this appears on your service receipt. This may the best evidence that the fault was reported early and may help with a warranty claim in the future.
D.
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