Group N STi Uprated Clutch
#1
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Hi,
has anyone out there, other than a number of 22b drivers, had an STi uprated clutch fitted.
It is apparently smaller in diameter but just about indesctructable - any thoughts?
Cheers,
David
has anyone out there, other than a number of 22b drivers, had an STi uprated clutch fitted.
It is apparently smaller in diameter but just about indesctructable - any thoughts?
Cheers,
David
#2
Apparently it makes your take off really bad - i wouldn't bother if i was you.
But seriously - don't know if it's the same clutch but speaking to a 22B owner with an uprated clutch - he said it was an absolute PIG to drive in traffic. 'Creeping' becomes almost impossible as the clutch just 'snaps' on and off.
Dave
But seriously - don't know if it's the same clutch but speaking to a 22B owner with an uprated clutch - he said it was an absolute PIG to drive in traffic. 'Creeping' becomes almost impossible as the clutch just 'snaps' on and off.
Dave
#3
I had an uprated STI clutch in my previous WRX. It was the 1050kg clamping force non paddle type (wrx car ~530Kg clamping, standard sti ~680Kg clamping force, or thereabouts 'ish').
You had to drive the car differently, but, once it had worn-in, it was very good. It did allow smooth progressive control, but it was harder to achieve this than with a weaker clutch. Case in point is when you let someone else drive it and they say "I see what you mean about the clutch!" or similar. Moving off smoothly is a bit of an art with these clutches, but you can learn it with a bit of patience. It will let you get away with steam-catapault starts if that's your bag.
Moray
You had to drive the car differently, but, once it had worn-in, it was very good. It did allow smooth progressive control, but it was harder to achieve this than with a weaker clutch. Case in point is when you let someone else drive it and they say "I see what you mean about the clutch!" or similar. Moving off smoothly is a bit of an art with these clutches, but you can learn it with a bit of patience. It will let you get away with steam-catapault starts if that's your bag.
Moray
#4
Uprating the clutch to a GP N or GP A spec item can cause premature failure of the gearbox - especially 2nd gear... since these clutches don't 'slip' - a clumsy upchange at full throttle can cause enough loading to rip the teeth of the gear - an expensive trait - to be avoided if you drive the car 'hard'....also, as stated above, very hard to get the car away cleanly without jolting and tiresome in heavy stop-start traffic.
verdict - not recommended unless you are to give the drive train some serious abuse or are getting through a (standard) clutch every month!
cheers,
Paul W
verdict - not recommended unless you are to give the drive train some serious abuse or are getting through a (standard) clutch every month!
cheers,
Paul W
#5
Howdy...
The 22B's used a twin plate design... and alot of people found them very hard to get on with... I heard that Prodrive changed them on the UK versions...
The difference between Grp N and Grp A Paddle clutches is the spring.. Bacially the Grp N has a sprung paddle.. The Grp A doesnt..
Alot of it is down to material.. you can get different materials for the friction plates... and you also have to take into account the pressure plate (spring poundage)
One thing to remember.. if you uprate something... all you are doing is moving the "weak link" to somewhere else... maybe the gearbox.. or the diffs...
J.
The 22B's used a twin plate design... and alot of people found them very hard to get on with... I heard that Prodrive changed them on the UK versions...
The difference between Grp N and Grp A Paddle clutches is the spring.. Bacially the Grp N has a sprung paddle.. The Grp A doesnt..
Alot of it is down to material.. you can get different materials for the friction plates... and you also have to take into account the pressure plate (spring poundage)
One thing to remember.. if you uprate something... all you are doing is moving the "weak link" to somewhere else... maybe the gearbox.. or the diffs...
J.
#6
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Interesting. I have been getting used to the idea that with my imminent engine mods I'll be straining the clutch and gearbox, so was thinking on a different clutch.
However, on the grounds that I'm "moving the weak link to the 'box", and that a clutch is cheaper than a 'box, perhaps its best to leave the clutch alone.
However, on the grounds that I'm "moving the weak link to the 'box", and that a clutch is cheaper than a 'box, perhaps its best to leave the clutch alone.
#7
Lee...
That is the basis I work on.. and the one that the manufacturers adopt too... Its far cheaper and easier to fit a new clutch than new internals/diff plates to your tranny
They design the clutch to last just long enough for the warranty period (if it is included - it is on some cars.. but not on others).. but they design it to minimise the strain on other parts...
J.
That is the basis I work on.. and the one that the manufacturers adopt too... Its far cheaper and easier to fit a new clutch than new internals/diff plates to your tranny
They design the clutch to last just long enough for the warranty period (if it is included - it is on some cars.. but not on others).. but they design it to minimise the strain on other parts...
J.
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#9
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Dear All,
thanks for your views, knackered clutch or knackered gearbox - I know which one I will choose
Benny,
I hope to see you tonight at the meet - Truda will probably come too.
Cheers,
David
[This message has been edited by Rannoch (edited 24-11-1999).]
thanks for your views, knackered clutch or knackered gearbox - I know which one I will choose
Benny,
I hope to see you tonight at the meet - Truda will probably come too.
Cheers,
David
[This message has been edited by Rannoch (edited 24-11-1999).]
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