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Best Down Pipe ?

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Old 10 June 2003, 08:15 PM
  #1  
SlowBoy
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Fuel cut occurs around the 16.5psi area.]
I thought it was around 18psi(1.25bar)?

[Edited by SlowBoy - 10/6/2003 8:15:56 PM]
Old 04 October 2003, 02:29 PM
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NelsonUK
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Hi guys

I am currently considering de-catting my scoob - MY00 PPP. Am I correct in thinking that I have just the one cat in the d/p ? So with this in mind I am wanting to know any recommendations of maunfacture for the d/p. I am certainly not looking for HKS loudness cos I am rather pleased with the sound of the prodrive b/box even if it is a little on the quiet side.

I assume the best thing for me to do would be to purchase a second hand centre section with a cat for MOT purposes - this assuming that it would pass with just the centre cat ?

Apart from impreoved throttle response can anybody give me some ideas of performance increase ?

Cheers in advance
Old 05 October 2003, 11:00 AM
  #3  
pappasmurf
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....I can recommend the Hayward and scott down pipe. I had one fitted to my Classic (march 2000)...i'm very pleased with it.
You will certainly notice a big difference with a decat d/p, although my Classic does not have PPP unlike yours.
Sound is great too and turbo kicks in much quicker.
Old 05 October 2003, 11:43 AM
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Mad Gypsy
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I can second that, the H&S d/p is very good, as is the rest of their systems.
I have their d/p and will soon be getting their centre and back.
Old 05 October 2003, 12:09 PM
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NelsonUK
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Thanks for the replies guys sounds like the Hayward & Scott is the one for me

Can either of your recommend the best place to buy the pipe ?

Cam I ask what you both do at MOT time ? Refit the original pipe ?

Cheers
Old 05 October 2003, 12:12 PM
  #6  
IanW
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I have had both the HKS and the ScoobySport (H&S Version) of the downpipe on my car, I still have the Prodrive backbox, but I also have a Magnex Non-resonated centre section as well, this way I have a full stainless steel system. The HKS with the Prodrive BB seemed to have a bit of a deeper note to it. I am more than happy with the sound from the system using the H&S open neck downpipe.

I think I have some sound clips recorded on my laptop of this setup. If you want to hear them then drop me a mail (address in my profile)

Ian
Old 05 October 2003, 12:15 PM
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zhastaph
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I'm fitting my complete H&S system 2day, I'll let you know what I think , if I can ever get the 8loody heat shield off

I think you can only by them direct from H&S now.

http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk

Looks good so far, and it seemed to be one of the cheapest I've come accross too.

As far as concerns MOT's I'm wondering the same, I'm gonna hold on to the down pipe and the centre section, I'm in the understanding it MAY pass with just the centre cat, so I'm gonna fit that then put it in, if it fails then I'll have to stick the DP back on an all


Old 05 October 2003, 12:16 PM
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zhastaph
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Ian,

Cant you stick it somewhere with a link so we can all have a good listen?
Old 05 October 2003, 12:20 PM
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IanW
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I can host it on a server, I just need to remove the Prodrive ATD video's form me ISP webspace first.

You should see how much bandwith can get used by putting a link to a file on here!

I'll sort something out and upload them shortly though.

Ian
Old 05 October 2003, 12:26 PM
  #10  
IanW
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450KB Sound File

That is the car at idle, I never did get around to recording teh car under load using the laptop!
Old 06 October 2003, 09:14 AM
  #11  
zhastaph
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Ok, she's all fitted (Complete H&S system).

First impressions are generally good. The downpipe is wicked, if you open the window whilst cruising along you hear loads of wicked noises being generated by the turbo that you never heard before.

Low end power without a doubt is a lot better, she's seems a lot less gutless before the turbo starts to pull then she did before, difficult to explain, but there is less of difference in pull between 2500 revs and 3500 revs.

Flatten her and she sounds like a rally car , let go of the of the throttle and the engine goes in to overrun and you get popping.

My only complaint is she's a touch noisy in the cabin, this may be worsened by the fact that I got a Wagon. To put it into perspective, if you drive around with the boot open then it will sound like it does now.

I may look into changing the silencer for something a little more quiet at a later date.

Oh, and it woz a doddle to fit. I've taken some pictures, I may well do a step by step post on fitting one of these things in a minute.
Old 06 October 2003, 09:23 AM
  #12  
dowser
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You may need to play with restrictor size a little when decatting a my99/00 PPP car...or get a remap, or fit an MBC. The boost maps make it a little susceptible to boost fluctuation when the cat restriction is removed.

Richard
Old 06 October 2003, 10:21 AM
  #13  
NelsonUK
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Thanks for all the info. I will have a listen to the sound file later - I am keen on going down the route of replacing the d/p....but also note the fact that I may need to fit an MBC to control boost. Does anyone have a photo of a MY99/00 with an MBC fitted so I can see what pipe work I have to connect or not connect. The only reason I ask is that I fitted a MBC that worked very well on MY93 and the pipe work was very simple for this - however the MY00 looks a bit more involved. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated
Old 06 October 2003, 11:50 AM
  #14  
The_Judge
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This may help...
Old 06 October 2003, 01:02 PM
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zhastaph
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Question

Hi Dowser & The_Judge,

The boost maps make it a little susceptible to boost fluctuation when the cat restriction is removed.
In what way?

I've looked at this "Dawes Device", from what I understand it restricts boost pressure from acting on the wastegate until it's reached a certain pressure, as set on the Dawes? How will that affect Boost Fluctuation? Am I right in understanding that this device will give a 'more even' 1 bar boost than the wastegate alone? (I've probably just answered that myself in the same line, but I think it needs clarifying)

Also I understand the standard ECU will kill the ignition if the boost go over a certain limit, what is this limit?

Forgive me if my question seems simple, I've only had a Scoob for about 3 months, and only just started swapping stuff on it ...

Cheers for ya help
Old 06 October 2003, 02:34 PM
  #16  
The_Judge
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Talking

I've looked at this "Dawes Device", from what I understand it restricts boost pressure from acting on the wastegate until it's reached a certain pressure, as set on the Dawes?
Spot on. This also eliminates wastegate creep, as the wastegate can't move until the preset pressure in the Dawes has been reached, which means more direct power.

Am I right in understanding that this device will give a 'more even' 1 bar boost than the wastegate alone?
Sort of. But it's mainly because the boost solenoid is being bi-passed. You're more likely to hit the same boost every time (assuming your pipes are OK).

Also I understand the standard ECU will kill the ignition if the boost go over a certain limit, what is this limit?
Fuel cut occurs around the 16.5psi area.

Forgive me if my question seems simple, I've only had a Scoob for about 3 months, and only just started swapping stuff on it ...
Me too! Picked mine up beginning of July. You think it's quick now, you wait until you've increased the boost a bit...

Cheers for ya help
De nada.

Regards,

Ade.
Old 07 October 2003, 08:41 AM
  #17  
The_Judge
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If the ECU has been remapped, that's possible, but not on a standard. Well, at least speaking for mine, anyway!
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