john banks

Boost target is 1.22 bar although most cars do not achieve this except on cold days with a lot of breathing mods or cars that overboost as standard. Most run 1.15 bar approx.

Most people's boost gauges are nowhere remotely accurate so you will get a plethora of figures just because of those. Plus the electronic turbo timers always seem to pick up higher boost spikes than anything else.

Why do I not map boost to run target in all conditions because then we would get the same held boost, and good boost in gears 2-5? Because with a 2 port you end up with very weather dependent boost spikes which heatsoak the intercooler and encourage transitional detonation (so I would have to kill the timing more which is bad news), plus it is smoother. You do lose boost in lower gears though.

You are better sticking with your Dawes as I already advised you by email. And you still need to get that knocklink For someone so paranoid about your engine and its welfare you are very reluctant

If you do want to go back to ECU boost control you need the original hose with restrictor, T-piece, section to actuator and the four clips.

[Edited by john banks - 7/4/2003 1:53:46 PM]

LG John

I'm looking for info from owners of MY99/00 with a JB postal remap (tek 2.5) and full decat but still the original turbo/intercooler, etc. What sort of boost are you guys seeing in these hotter months and what sort of boost will you see on a stinking hot day? As well you know I have a dawes controlling my boost and I want to be sure that its not set above what you ecu controlled boys are seeing. I'd prefer figures in bar and at the moment I'm getting about 1.16bar in the stinking hot weather and just over 1.1 in 2nd/3rd gear.

ozzy

Kenny,

For you East-coast, penny-pinching types, I even found some suppliers of cheaper Knocklink bits.

See here

Stefan

LG John

Yeah I'm sticking with the dawes as its behaving itself now Lets assume I ordered a knocklink today: By the time it came and I fitted it I'd be on holiday up north and when I come back from that the car will probably be on the market so I'd likely have to sell an un-used knocklink at half price

The point of the post was simply to gauge what various tek users were getting under ECU control in the summer weather. If the average came back at about 1.1 bar then I'd be turning the dawes down as I'm seeing 1.15. I just don't want to run any more boost than what the ECU would try to run under the same conditions. I'm a firm believer that John set 1.22 bar as a target for a reason and I'm certainly not going to chance it by running more than that!

Fair point re: boost gauges - that could really screw up the survey!!

John can I just chuck in 2 bottles of NF and turn her up to just under fuel cut for the last few weeks?

kart_man

Kenny,

It won't take you long to fit a knocklink, and it could save you a very expensive rebuild !! The slowest part is feeding the wires through the bulkhead and even that isn't the end of the world.

Come round and see mine fitted if you like and I'll talk you through the whole procedure.

I admit I was sceptical whether it was worth it, but I've had mine fully light up twice now, and I just threw in some octane booster and took it easy till that tank was done. You get good and bad fuel, and I believe that's what blows the engines !

Dave